Jo_Ann

The trial version I am using is HD Pro 17, and I fixed this using YOUR plan, just like I said. Did you change anything after you posted the plan? You can always re-download the plan that you posted, and see if there is a difference.

Easy. One horizontal soffit, one vertical soffit. Two sloped soffits One cylinder shape (rounded bottom of vertical soffit). Build it in place at one of the gables. Hold down control and select each piece (easiest to do in 3d view), and block it. Select/copy/paste the block for the other gables.

HD trial versions do not allow anything to be saved, so I can't post the fixed plan. The best I can do, is to show these pics of the plan you posted, showing the problem foundation wall (gap).

I think the soffit method is simpler and quicker to use, especially if the tile doesn't extend to the ceiling. A chair rail (sized smaller and thinner) above the tile, finishes it off nicely. The more attention you pay to details, the better the result you will get.

I did the steps I indicated on the plan you submitted, without changing any of your existing settings. If your garage door is not cutting the concrete, then the foundation wall must still not be aligned. Do a doll house view and zoom in on the floor area at the garage door (inside). If there is no concrete wall beneath the exterior level 1 wall, then the garage door will only build within the exterior 1st floor wall (because there is no concrete below to build into). In your plan, it looks like there are a lot of your foundation walls that are not properly aligned.

Like LawB10 said, you need to realign the front foundation wall of the garage. Drop to level 0, turn on 'reference floor' display. Zoom in and drag that front foundation wall as close to align with wall above as you can get. Then right click and select 'align with wall above' to let the software make an exact alignment. Back on level 1, open the garage door dbx, and click 'ok'. Like magic, the garage door will now cut into the concrete as expected.

The deck did not display, because the exterior house wall it connected to....was set as having 'no room definition'. Attic walls are set that way.

Grab the end of the corrected attic wall, and drag it over the remaining attic wall. This will give you a straight wall with no jog. I think the issue occurs when a roof overhang (unseen roof overhang) cuts into another exterior wall.

I think it almost always involves an incorrect wall placement. You just need to start moving walls around until you hit on the one causing the problem.

When opened with Pro, the attic wall shows with siding. When opened with Architectural, the siding is missing. On that attic wall missing the siding, do a careful, slight, control /drag back towards the house, until the siding appears.

If you are thinking of striated or scalloped shaped siding, look in the library materials under roofing / shakes and shingles.

1. As DJP said, draw foundation walls on level 0, below the porch walls. 2. I suspect you 'deleted' the rails by selecting 'no rail' on the railing tab of the wall. Instead, make the wall invisible. 3. Draw a slab in front of the porch, same height as the porch, but sized to look like a stair tread. Then place the stairs in front of it You will also need to extend the slab down to meet the ground..

Use an isometric wedge (on end) from the library (shapes / wedges), carefully sized and made thin, to cover the exterior siding that is showing because of the vaulted ceiling. For the stairs...draw an interior wall parallel to the stairs, then carefully ctrl / drag it into and slightly beneath the right side stair wall.

Just be sure that you are using the 'break line' tool....NOT the 'break wall' tool. https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00983/creating-a-custom-shaped-countertop.html

A custom countertop is easy to use as an enclosure, BUT...it has to be shaped around the outside of the tub! The tub on the left is done this way. The tub on the right uses the same countertop, but with cabinet panels inserted into the sides. A custom countertop (with water material) is shaped to fit inside the tub.

Sloped soffits can also be your friend. https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/1993-changing-interior-stair-railings-to-panels/

Another way to add a rail is with a soffit, (sized to mimic a rail), and with countertop cove molding added to it. Then carefully placed into the cabinet door, at the height you prefer.

My library contains an arch (exteriors / landscaping / arbors and arches / arch). Resized and carefully placed, (along with a few wedge shapes to cover up bare spots), this works quick and easy.

https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00924/customizing-a-material.html

Probably the 1st thing you can do for headache prevention, is to delete ALL of the elevation points. Open the basic terrain perimeter dbx and uncheck 'flatten pad'. I got the results shown by using elevation regions, sized and shaped around the structure (pic #1). They are all set at different elevations. You will have to play with them, to get whatever desired results you want.

You didn't read either article closely enough. They both have the answer, and it IS a 'shed' roof...more specifically a 'high shed' roof (and it says so in the knowledge base article). The trick is to create a skinny room in the center of the structure, and specify 'no roof' over the room.

In addition to what Elovia said, you might also find it useful to download the French Provincial sample plan (from the Home Designer samples gallery). You can then study how they did it, using a real model.

Read this knowledge base article: https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00147/selecting-a-sink-after-it-is-placed-in-a-cabinet.html If you are trying to resize the sink, you might be able to place it outside of the base cabinet. Resize it and then drag it into the cabinet.

Rotate the FACE of the countertop, then control / drag it up against the back of the cabinet! Easy peezy DONE!

Try changing the direction of the cabinet (countertop).