Jo_Ann

Olivier...take a look at what is obvious. If bldg #1 floor (c) is set at '0', and your terrain takes a steep elevation drop...should bldg #2 floor (c) still be set at '0'?

Is it really floor structure(L) you need to change, or is it floor (C) that you need to change? Floor (C) is most always set to "0" and the terrain elevation is what gets changed to raise or lower the house from the ground. If it actually really is floor structure(L), then you need to re-read what I said. For a bigger floor structure, stick with the default (12 5/8) and add only a few inches to the floor finish (K) to get what you need.

Looking at your elevation picture, you have misrepresented the entire house roof structure in the plan that you posted. That changes everything. Read up on 'story and a half' roofs in the knowledge base, and focus on getting the main house roof correct first (front gable and dormer included). You have a lot of fixing to do.

After you have deleted the 2nd floor garage walls, repair the 2nd floor house walls (at the corner) with exterior walls. Then try this: On floor 1, set the garage walls as "separate" from the house, as shown. Remember to set the front and rear garage walls as 'gable'. Add a new room, as shown. Follow the settings. When the roof is correct, turn off auto rebuild roof. You can then rejoin the garage walls to the house, and delete the extra room. For water drainage, easiest way to add a cricket (in this case), is to use an isometric wedge (library shape), as shown.

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How about a custom backsplash?

Same method. Not very practical, unless it's for a child's playhouse.

Draw a cad circle set to 125cm, and wrap the curved stairs around it.

Or you can use soffits, soffits, and more soffits (or closed boxes).

Try this.

swarren, Trial and error.

While on floor 2, turn on the reference floor display. Choose to build a new floor (floor 3)/ new blank plan. In the structure box that appears, set the finished ceiling to 8". Build 4 NEW walls over the bump out ONLY (Draw over the existing walls, because they are attic walls and will not define a room). Make sure all 4 walls are aligned with the walls below. Set both the front and back walls as gable walls.

I used a different approach. Back porch, west side railing wall needs to be set as full gable. You have the build roof dialog set to 'ignore 2nd floor'. Uncheck it. Now you need to lower the 2nd floor finished ceiling to 60", so it will blend into the porch roof (reset height after you turn off rebuild roof). The 2nd floor needs to extend out over the porch for a dormer: Draw 3 new walls for the dormer. Break the original front wall of the house at each dormer side wall. Drag the original front wall back into the house until the roof looks correct (don't forget to set the dormer front wall as gable). Open the dormer room and set the finished ceiling height to about 88", or whatever sets the height of the roof correctly.

The truss was done with regular soffits, sloped soffits, and cylinder shapes (for the bolts). It was then 'blocked'. The purlins were done using the custom backsplash. Then copy/pasted, and moved into position.

There is a basic cape cod plan in the TEMPLATES folder of HDPro 2018 (plan2249.plan). It might be helpful to you, to be able to see how they did it.

A big slow down might happen if you have recently added some sketchup symbols. Have you recently added a lot of landscaping?

For some reason, the balcony wall below that roof oddity is causing the problem. Move it 2" in either direction, and roof oddity goes away.

On the same floor level that you created the terrain: TOOLBAR: Terrain / Terrain Feature / Terrain Hole

A workaround: Does your floor structure height (L) need to be less? Change the entire floor level room type to "SLAB". The slab floor structure (L) is only 4". Since Architectural doesn't show framing anyway, go ahead and set your floor finish (K) to what ever dimension it needs to be, to replicate the final finished floor height that you need.

Settings you need to change: South wall of the flat-roofed room is set as a "high shed gable". Unset that. Open west wall, and north wall of the flat-roofed room, and on the roof tab, set the pitch to "0" ( it will default to 1.2). Open room structure dbx and set the finished ceiling to a maximum of 2670mm. Rebuild roof.

With Suite, your only choice is to cover up either the inside wall OR the outside wall. Use thin soffits (cabinet tool) or thin wedges (library shapes), then apply the chosen material to the cover-up.

Maybe this kb article will also be of use. https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00886/creating-a-custom-glass-shower.html BUT.. it doesn't really tell all the details. In my example, I used a half wall, then slid a soffit (using glass material) into the half wall, and resized it's height. The door was a whole lot trickier.

What part of "Get rid of ALL the "accessories". Furniture, cars, all the terrain items etc" didn't you understand???

On the EDIT toolbar: Terrain / terrain feature / terrain hole, for the window wells. If you want the slabs to show color in the 2d plan, keep the fill style set to 'solid' and change the 'transparency' setting to about 60%.