Rookie65

My first suggestion is if you are going to design for clients, upgrade to Home Designer Pro so you have more flexibility of framing choices, creating different wall types, etc. What I have done is created a "Master Plan" that has the defaults set to what is most common for my area. That way, when I get a new design, I start with my master, and then rename the new plan so when I change the defaults for that job it doesn't mess up the master plan. Secondly, if you are not a licensed architect or engineer, make sure that fact is clearly explained ahead of time. Depending on where you live, you probably can design plans without being licensed and your state may have guidelines. As for pricing, what I do is allow my clients 2 rounds of included revisions before the final plan is started. Any revisions after the 2 rounds that they initiate, depending on what it is, become invoiced on an hourly basis. I don't sweat moving a wall or window, yet size changes, roof changes, the larger items that affect the size, structure, etc. It helps keep the people who can't decide from expecting a bunch of changes for nothing. Plus your time is worth money in providing them this service. Keep each version of the plans, as sometimes they will go back to what you had done before, or want to keep a particular item and you can copy and paste it to the new plan. Just start with the initial plan, and "save as" a new name so the defaults are still with it. Something as simple as naming it the next number so you can keep track of them. And always get a deposit before you start drawing anything. Provide them an estimate beforehand so they know the approximate price and can't come back with a complaint about the price afterwards and leave you with nothing. Out of curiosity, how did you come up with that rate to charge? Did you check what some other people are charging for plans in your area? What I have created is almost an "A La Carte" pricing system. Each project type has a certain base price, with a square foot adder to it. That way, you have a certain price initially for your time, then the adder is a small amount based on the size. That's my 2 cents.

You may also want to try doing a "walkthrough", yet around just the exterior and see if that works for you?

You can also change the material on the bonus catalog gable truss if wood grain, color, etc. are critical

You can adjust the bonus truss to make it fit the pitch you need. They don't make one for every conceivable pitch

Go to the bonus catalogs millwork>Corbels and Brackets No.3 Gable. See if the beach style will work for you Or use an angled soffit

It's also good for sound reduction if you do it as 2 separate walls with a space between them. Keep in mind that 2x8's are 7-1/4"

Click on the floor>structure >change the floor framing to what you want. Help is available on each screen and you can search for what you want to accomplish

Try your core catalog, archtectural, search sink, and undermount is an option. At least in Pro 24

This forum is for the Home Designer series. If you are using the actual Chief Architect program, you will want to use this forum. https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/

Or check the materials and be sure the exterior ones are all set to the same color.

Set the floor level of the higher deck at a negative height above the floor of the main house, which should be "0". That will raise it up

Try going to your wall types and using "Straight Glass Pony Wall" and see if it makes your life easier.

You can make the license available to her when you aren't working on the plan and she can see the same thing you had. Plus, you'll be both working with the same downloaded files in the library.

Only if she has Pro. Programs only work forward on types. You could log out and give her the license key number. Then she could log in with the same program you are using. Just have to remember to make it available when either of you are done so the other can access it.

It's not in HD

It may be available in Chief Architect. This is the Home Designer line forum

It must have been deleted from 2 years ago

Look for "Kitchen Vent Hoods" under the same tab.

Solver, That's why I suggested what I did. He wants to rotate it North and South, plus East and West.

Try edit>edit area>all floors>transform replicate, 1 copy, reflect vertically and go up on the y axis a good distance so the two plans don't overlap. Then take the new plan, reflect horizontally and go along the x axis and that should work

Are you trying to show them as a section view so they know the materials, etc.? If that's the case, when you place the camera where you want it on the plan, use a CAD line to trace over the camera lines at the ends and extend them out of the building. Then draw another one perpendicular to the end point, then go to "callouts" under text. I use the triangle and label them "A,B," etc. You can turn the triangle to face in the direction the view is in. Once you have your view, add a label or some item to the view. Then, when you go to close the camera, the program will ask if you want to save the elevation view. Say yes, and it's there. You can then copy the lines and the markers,then move up and down floors and "Save, hold position" and the section arrows will be on each floor. Other than that, I am not sure what your term of "Design intent" is trying to focus on?

Maybe it was change in subsequent releases? In 2024 it is as discussed, with the inner panel being the operable one as viewed from the exterior. Maybe download the trial version and see if it changed, then upgrade to the current version. And you'd likely order them as "OX" or "XO" to keep it in industry terms.

You can use the break line tool on the left roof where it meets the house at the corner. Then drag that section to the right to meet the other roof. Provided your program has manual roofs.

Did you draw any bearing lines for the ceiling joists? If not, it's likely reading the length as the full span. I'm not one that has faith in the HD material list and don't use.

Sloped soffits or custom backsplash