Rookie65

Ok. Yet how do I get the room to break that way. The roof is good, other than once I can get the bump out over it, I can draw it to match. I had thought of a separate room for that area, with a raised floor or something to form the "cube?"

Hi all, I am looking for help in getting the overhang of the roof to go over the door as shown below. I need to keep the ridge centered as is & wasn't sure of the best way to achieve this? Thank you for any help.

For the Automatic Exterior dimensions, change "locate objects" on windows & doors to "center". You can also eliminate things you don't want to have included. For interior, I have found manual dimension to be the best way to keep the plan cleaner. Hope this helps a little

Depending on what software you have, use "pony wall."

Eric, Thank you for all of the help. Worked like a charm.

It looks like it could work. Only problem is every time I try to open the plan in 2015, it says it was written by a newer version. When I try to open 2016, it says program is already running. How can I get into this plan to work on it? I am a bit lost, to say the least.

yes, because I need to be able to put a gable over that area as shown in the original pictire, which I can't do with a box bay.

Here is what I get when I add a room divider & raise the floor up so it forms a separate room so I can make it a gable wall.

Hi, I am trying to recreate the bump out window on the left side of the plan. I have tried using room dividers & raising the floor up. That just leaves an open gap under the window. Any help is appreciated. I will need to put a gable over this section as well Thank you. PZ-59 Winter.plan

Thank you all. Will give it a try. I appreciate the help very much.

Thank you. I have been trying w/the sloped soffits & I can't seem to get it to make sense. I tried to understand the reference manual to no avail.

Let me see if this camera view helps.

I need to get a second layer of rake trim below the existing one. It will be the 8" which automatically forms when you build the roof & trim. I need a secondary set of trim beneath that in a 6" for a total of 14" rake trim. .I hope that explains it better?

Hi all, I can't seem to be able to figure out how to get a soffit angled to fit under the 2 peaks on the right front of the attached image. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you!

I am thinking you could make it as a bifold door 12' wide x 8' tall & change the panels to glass. It will show 2 doors stacking to each side. Change the door thickness to 1-3/4".

Maybe try the "cross section/elevation" camera & put it to the rear of the cabinet facing toward the front?

I think the soffit may work. I tried yesterday real quick. It's basically just needing a piece of 1x trim to go along the back wall at the same angle as the front. The roof on the back is the full length of the garage, so there is no protrusion through the roof.Thank you for the replies.

Hi all, I am working on an addition where the front roof over the garage is a 12/12 pitch & the back is a 5/12 or so. I am trying to figure out how I can get a piece of trim that mimics the same pitch as the front to give the appearance of a gable. What I have drawn was by using rectangles, yet it doesn't put anything on the 3d views. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Regarding the windows, depending on the size, you may want to look into the wind loading on that side of the house. Windows just attached at the frames with no structural support can bow in with strong winds. Might depend on what brand you are thinking to use.

I bought this program specifically to restart my side business of designing houses, additions, etc. It has been a life saver compared to the old T-square & triangle days, especially with changes. I think any type of class that will help with building codes, materials, etc. will be a help. Even just going to a job site where houses are being built & seeing them in various stages is very informative. Some of the house plan magazines are good to pick up to see what types of layouts are popular/efficient/current. Definitely do not mention the word "architect" in any advertising, etc. I just tell people that I design/draw various residential projects. If you don't have an official title from a governing agency, try to stay away from giving yourself one. As far as billing, I use a combination of a base price then an add-on per square foot. The base can be determined by how much time you think something will take you to draw & what you feel your time is worth per hour. As for a questionnaire, one thought is to ask your customer to list things in 3 categories. Must haves, like to haves & if possibles. Ask if they like a particular style of house they like. Ask them the type of rooms they are looking for. In college we learned that even "bubble diagrams" are good to start with. Place them in an area a particular room might go. Adjust the bubble size by the approximate size of each room that the client may want. Some rooms need to have a certain minimum amount of square footage, such as bedrooms. I hope this may help a little bit.

Got it. Great help. Thank you.

I will give that a try. I am hoping it will work when doing a 2D elevation view. Thank you again.

Thank you, David, I like that idea, yet on the elevation view, it still shows the arrow pointing to the hinge side. Kbird, I will look more into that later.

Hi all, What do you folks do when you want to put sidelights next to an entry door? On a full glass one I make a fixed window & adjust the frame. Yet when I ama using a door w/some detail, the best I have found is to make the unit a pocket door so it shows the slab. Yet on the floor plan you see the area where the doors slide in to eaither wall? Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thank you!

If Architectural will let you edit your defaults, go to doors-pocket & edit the width you want it to be. Keep in mind that any pocket door you draw will keep that same dimension. Hope this works?