Rookie65

Does Architectural have different lite options, such as craftsman? You can also search many of your questions in the reference manual so you don't have to wait for someone else to guide you

Try doing it with exterior wall coverings

Without seeing the plan, I am just guessing. See if you have a ceiling surface over the deck. Sometimes when a deck is made in Pro 2024, the room will be marked as "unspecified." Check to see that it is a room type of a deck and your structure. That may help

You might have to draw the pipes as poly lines in plan view. Then change the infill to solid and the color you want it to be. Though unless you're printing the plans in color, the colors won't matter, so maybe an infill of 2 different patterns may work better?

Please add the version and year of software you are using to your signature. It helps everyone who may want to help you. Go to your username in the top right corner, click "profile", then on signature. Items can't be made live.

Ok, then the next step is to use the "Terrain Hole" option in the landscape tools on the 1st floor and turn off "hide terrain intersected by buildings"

Did you try rebuilding the terrain? Please add the version and year of software you are using to your signature please. It helps everyone who may want to help you. Go to your username in the top right corner, click "profile", then on signature.

Use an interior wall and change the framing layer to "insulation with studs". Or do what is often done and just notate it on the plan

Should be. Go to your "Dimensions" settings, and see what they are set at. When all else fails, try the reference manual and search the topic.

Sounds like outer surface would make the dimensions the same, yet then you have an overhang to the inside. Do you have the option to make the foundation wider?

Do the math. You have an 8" foundation with a 6" frame wall plus brick above. Try looking at a section view to see how they are lining up over each other.

Without seeing the plan, I am thinking that you may need to adjust the pony wall alignment layer, as brick width is probably the 4-1/2" difference you are getting. Aligning to sheathing layer may fix it.

Try using the terrain hole feature, mark the area to the outside of the foundation for the whole floor, then uncheck "hide terrain intersected by building.

You should be able to go to the attic floor and extend the wall over the room. Or try taking the ceiling plane line and bringing it all the way to the wall where the window is. This has been asked about many times, so there are likely previous posts about it that you can search for under keywords.

You could also try making it with landings, since they will report as stair parts and have the tread and side material that you want to make it. Start at the bottom and work up.

Did you try shortening the door height and set the bottom height above the drawers? If you have the bottom at "0", then it won't let you place it. Not sure why you would use a half wall if it goes from floor to ceiling? Using a regular interior wall might make things a lot easier.

Once you have the 1st set where you want them, try using the transform/replicate tool in plan view to move them along the ceiling at the desired spacing.

If you make it from a material other than the kitchen counter material, I would think that it would show up on the material list as that material. The material lists generated from the program are only as accurate as your plan. I think you'll find that most builders will do their own estimates, as each one does it differently. The program list may be a good starting point for a budget price, yet to base material ordering from it would leave you missing materials, in my opinion.

Build each tread with a custom countertop.Subtract the thickness of the tread, as you will use the riser you created to make the tread. The custom counter can be cut at the angle you need with the break tool. Then transform/replicate each piece, raise it up, then adjust the depth to what your tread will be. Start at the bottom.

David, I don't think his question has anything to do with framing. I think he wants to have the program name be his company and not the default? The problem I see with trying to change the name may be that if there are updates, etc. that you want to download, the program name won't be valid anymore? I am just guessing, and it's probably a question better suited for technical support. KTUJMD - it will help everyone if you can update your signature and put the software version and year in it. Otherwise, people are guessing. Just go to your user name in the top right corner, open profile, then see the signature tab on the bottom.

Ok, great. Try drawing your curved walls a little ways from the main house. Once it's done, go to "edit area" and select all floors. Then you may be able to align it with "point to point" move to the location you want it to be in. That will bring all levels of floors with it. Leave the straight walls away from it for now, since they'll be the easiest to connect once you have the curved room where you want it. If you are doing 2 curved areas, then "transform-replicate" the 1st one before you attach it a good distance from the 2nd wall/area,. so you align it the same as the 1st. I hope this helps.

Help us all by adding your signature with your program and year. Then a solution can be better attained for you. Go to your user name in the top right corner, then to account settings. There you will see signature. Put the program title and year in it so it doesn't have to be searched for with each of your posts.

Did you try the bonus catalogs? There are some wood options there.

Why don't you download the trial version and see for yourself? Only you will know what you consider to be an improvement.

Should be an option under the wall defaults, depending on which version of the program you're using