DavidJPotter

I need to know what software you are using and its version number. I cannot tell what, if anything is "wrong" just from your post and image. Please be a little more clear as to what the problem is DJP

I commonly use the clients last name, then today's date for plan file and layout revisions. Often times City's require layouts in two sizes so I add the intended paper size as part of the layout's file name along with the client's name and the date. Been using this system since 1999. DJP

When you say "wall to remain above them but not below." it is not clear what you are asking, walls can be next to, under, around stairs for various purposes. You need to also post screen shot image of what you are getting that you do not want or an image of what you do want versus what you are currently getting or some way to clarify and concisely state what you what to do and why. DJP

Here is a You Tube video of me doing that in Pro 2015: http://youtu.be/Xb_UJ51Oh9A DJP

Since they added the exposed rafter tail feature some versions ago, I stopped using sloped soffits for that purpose. My answer is based upon present tools and conventions (using sloped soffits was a work-round that is now unnecessary IMHO) DJP

Stair objects and landings have a natural programmed "affinity" for eachothers edges but patience and preciseness of location in thier handling is the key. The more you work with that type of object the more certainty you will gain as to what is required to get the desired results. DJP

What you would need is Home Designer Pro 2015 which you can download a free trial of if you like to see what it does (the trial version does not save or print). DJP

Home Designer Pro should work well in XP, Vista, Windows 7, 8 and 8.1. I believe Windows 7 will be the most XP-like of those choices, though any will work. DJP

Like Eric said, there should be a "corner fireplace" in the Library Browser. You can also draw a 45 degree wall in the room's corner and then place a "Fireplace" in that wall from the "Build" menu, depends upon the end result you desire. DJP

In order to have,fully, exposed rafters you also have to turn off "soffit and fascia" so that the rafter tails become exposed. DJP

It is a matter of choice of construction methods relative to the foundation when ordered built. I am not a State Licensed Structural Engineer nor is the software intended to be such, rather it is a mechanical tool that displays what the end user tells it to display. Floor levels per floor are controlled by the "Floor Level" input box per "Room Specification Dialog" Where a split level condition is desired one sets the "Floor Level" for Floor One in "Edit - Default Settings - Floor" for the majority of a floor (Floor one is always set to "Zero Inches" always) the for raising or lowering part of a floor you divide the floor into separate rooms that can be then programmed separately and different from the "Default Settings". Garages are commonly set to lower than the house's floor height so you can easily drive a vehicle into it. That is done via the "Room Specification Dialog - Floor Height input box" at your choice and calcualtion. Part of understanding how to guide this software is learning how it is programmed to function (how to get the desired effect using it) and knowing a little about construction methods and procedures, it is not always perfectly intuitive and must be learned first by study, followed by practice to gain personal certainty on how to get things done. DJP

Here is a You Tube video of me looking over and repairing your file: http://youtu.be/xDZYNG820ao DJP

Robin, As a matter of Engineering, roof baselines are the transfer points of the dynamic and dead loads borne by walls. If they are properly located, then roof symetry is easy to effect but if they are careslessly placed all sorts of unwanted problems then ensue with roof geometry. Here is a You Tube Tutorial by a friend of mine about roofs you may also enjoy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ix5Y4OAfQQQ and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wxd2CsGw9sM DJP

Terrain was added as a feature in the year 2000 and as an adjunct you always buld the model first and then create the terrain plane. Once the terrain plane is completed, you then position it relative to the house or structure using the "Building Pad" input box of the "Terrain Specification Dialog" to move it, as an object up or down relative to the structure. So house-building first, terrain second. DJP

The way that command is programmed "Roof Cuts Wall at Bottom" the wall needs to be 'on top" of a roof plane to work properly. To do otherwise is to use the software in an unintended way (so you get unintended results when you do so). If you program a wall to be cut by a roof plane at its bottom, you make sure that the wall in question is on top or within the area of a roof plane only. That is the only purpose of that command. DJP

I read and reread the responces here and took a look at the posted plan file, this video on You Tube is the result: http://youtu.be/hZvBltsiTsg DJP

I opened my copies of Suite 2915, Architectural and Pro all of which have the ability to set text fonts as the end user chooses. DJP

A good adjunct to Home Designer Software is Trimble's 3D Warehouse where objects made and shared by others can be selected and then imported into Home Designer software. These objects are free but quality control-checked by others than you. In terms of your desire for custom stair railings, other than custom making your own using Trimble Sketch Up or a piece at a time, in Home Designer softare you have fewer choices unless you upgrade to Chief Architect Premier where greater creativity is then possible. There is much you can do with what you have but it requires quite a bit of thinking out of the box (dialog boxes and settings). DJP

Soffits (Cabinet tools") can be reshaped to any size and thickness you want and carry any material you assign, so yes, I agree with Jo_Ann's solution. DJP

Commonly, I name the "as-built" plan "client's name or address-as-built" then future versions are named "client's name or address and the date I finish them. I suppose there are other possible ways but that is what I have done for over twenty years. DJP

Tech Support has acknowledged to me that the pony wall in a gable end is bugged and is now on their fix-it list. In earlier versions it did work perfectly well as I described but now does not. DJP

These Knowledge Base Help Articles may be of specific help to you: http://www.homedesignersoftware.com/search/?q=STORY+AND+A+HALF&submit.x=0&submit.y=0&default_tab=support&site=chief_architect&client=chief_architect&restrict=ChiefArchitect&proxystylesheet=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.chiefarchitect.com%2Fsearch%2Fchiefsearch_stylesheet.xslt&output=xml_no_dtd DJP

DJ, Home Designer Suite (all HD and Chief Architect premier software too) is merely a mechanical device that tabulates based upon how you set it to tabulate and it measures how descretely well you built the 3D model (plan file). It does not have opinions, it does not take care of our errors or mistakes, it merely tabulates what you put there and how you put it there. If you did it wrong or in error, then the resulting materials lists will be wrong and error ridden. HD Suite is not, basically an estimation program, it is only a 3D modeling program that tabulates what you did and how you did it. DJP

Yes with no problems. After I tried to make a video of using a gable pony wall I found that the tool does not work as expected and I have submitted a bug report about that specific application of pony walls in gables. It used to work perfectly in older versions but does not now properly function as it used to. There are many more choices in Chief Permier than Home Designer software so I try and answer questions here just for HD software. DJP

Eric, glad you worked it out. Actually I did a video showing how to do as I suggested and while doing so found that the pony wall tool no longer works as it did in earlier versions. So I submitted the video to Tech Support with a bug report about lost proper function. We will see what comes. DJP