DavidJPotter

Specifically: http://3dlibrary.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?r=site/library&search=&x=0&y=0&x=true&soft_family_2=2&hid_soft_family_2=2&utm_source=&utm_medium=&utm_campaign= "Certainteed" Catalog DJP

Here is me taking a stab at your roof system in Suite and Pro 2015 on You Tube: http://youtu.be/hHuF0V37Ews DJP

In "Edit - Preferences - Edit - Behaviors" in Home Designer Pro 2015 (and older versions as well) there is a setting for "Edit Type", the ones listed there are: "Default (where it should always usually be selected), Alternate, Resize, Concentric (which includes a "Jump" input box to control how much something resizes concentrically) and "Fillet". Each of those settings and their specific purposes are fully described in your Reference Manual as to why one might use them temporarily. If you changed any of them but especially "Concentric" could also directly cause the behavior you are seeing, check and see. Without knowing which software application you are using, it is a guessing game for us as to why you are getting unwanted behavior. DJP

When you are learning the software it is easy to accidently draw a small segment of a wall (that is the usual culprit) a long distance from where your structure is located. The overview camera is programmed to included all objects that are drawn in plan view no matter whether accidental or not, thus in order to do so, the camera viewpoint is such that one is seemingly viewing from outer space/ Find and eliminate the accidental object and by doing so that is the only thing that will return expected function, DJP

Here is a short You Tube show and tell in Pro 2015 about doors and door defaults: http://youtu.be/AWU5l-oTdH4 DJP

Depending upon what software title and its version, you can simply select and delete the unwanted posts (not all titles have this ability). Or you can select and resize those posts (if you can select them that is). What software specific title (Pro, Architectural, Suite, Interiors, Essentials) do you have and what is its version number? DJP

I use the ADA guidelines especially for designing bathrooms, otherwise you just have to plan for the necessary space and ergonomics required for Wheel chair activity (wider exterior and interior doors, ramps, wider halls and bathrooms), In other words you have to think through the design, seeing yourself in that environment and molding it to your own comfort. It sounds like to me that you really do not require any help as you already have your own likes and dislikes to guide you. As Eric has already said, we can help you with the software to get exactly what you decide you need and want. DJP

Thank you Robyn!

http://www.ada.gov/ta-pubs-pg2.htm DJP

Here is a short, quick look at your plan at You Tube: http://youtu.be/850lVBab4M0 DJP

Here is a fumbling look at both methods (soffits and floor levels) in both Suite and in Pro 2015: http://youtu.be/KtZKMGs-7Tg DJP

Welcome to the forum. You should also mention what software you are using (Pro, Architectural, Suite, Interiors, Lawn and Deck Designer etc) and what version (2015, 2014, 2012, version 10, 9 8 etc) as the abilities of these applications wildly vary, one to another. Secondly, it is not clear to me what, exactly is "wrong" (I can tell from your post that you are having difficulty but not exactly what), An example of what you are trying to do compared to what you are currently getting might help make clear your goal. Posting a copy of your plan file also often helps,provided the problem is clearly stated so others not close to the project can also understand your difficulty. DJP

I understand what your concern is and I often see this asked for by Chief Premier users. You can "lock" layers in Pro and Chief Premier which means they, while locked cannot be selected at all what so ever until unlocked. I have been using Chief since 1994 and I have never locked wall layers very often, except in VERY specialized instances. Commonly the need for locking walls in place is unnecessary once you get used to how things work. The more comfortable you are and knowledgeable you are with the software the more relaxed you become about your ability to control and work with objects. Study and practice will iron out an remaining wrinkles you might have relative to your own confidence and competence. DJP

Please define more clearly what you mean by "catwalk", do you mean a tire-stop raised area next to the house in the Garage? DJP

Here is a short You Tube Video tutorial done in Interiors 2015, Suite 2015 and lastly Architectural 2015 relative to custom counter top options: http://youtu.be/fZfPTG3KTiI DJP

Here is a short You Tube Tutorial about the cabinet specification dialog: http://youtu.be/_t-AEKPhBbw DJP

Display Options - Dimensions, Automatic - uncheck under the "Display" column. DJP

What software do you have (version and title) and please post a copy of your plan or at least some screen capture images to help convey conditions. DJP

There is no such thing as a "random pattern" so to get randomness you would actually have to make little objects, each different from the others and manually place them in your plan, object by object, just like a tile setter would do. It can be done (I have done it) but it is also a lot of work by default. DJP

importing an image of a scaled blueprint does NOT mean that it will import at the proper scale (ralationship) to anything else. What Jo_Ann is recommending (rightly so) is to alter or enlarge your imported image until it is close to the right size. the "right size" is defined by achieving close to an actual scale of 1' = 1' or "real world" scale. Most house plans must be scaled down to fit on a managable sized piece of paper so when you are reversing the process (importing an image into Home Designer) you have to enlarge such images until they begin to agree with their stated dimensions (the dimensions of your plan file match those stated in the blueprint). You do that by dragging a corner handle of the selected image and then check to see how that enlargent agrees or disagrees with what the dimensions are shown to be. It is a methodical process but one that is worthwhile to successfully complete. When your walls are all sketched in, you delete the image and finish the process by making the plan file's dimensions match the blueprint's dimensions. You make sure that "Dimension Defaults - Locate Objects" are set the same as the blueprints are showing, otherwise inaccuracies can be entered in to the plan unnecessarily. DJP

If you know someone who has AutoCAD, they can convert a .dwg file to a .dxf file which then should import into Architectural. Once imported, you can convert the dxf lines to terrain data, one at a time in relation to each other. The AutoCAD user just opens your existing .dwg file and then saves it as a .dxf file. I am not familiar with any programs that convert or save-as a .dwg to a txt or.gpx file. DJP

I agree with Mick, in that you just do, manually in Pro what you would do on your drawing board, it takes some practice and toughness but is the best way to go in Pro. DJP

Version 7 was designed to run within Windows Xp or perhaps Vista, it might even be OK in Windows 7 but not in Windows 8 0r 8.1. what OS (operating system) does your current PC have? DJP

For renovations and additions you always have two plan files: the as-built that shows demo walls and other demo instructions and the second plan file is the one that shows the changes or additions. How you name those plan files is your business. The for construction documents you have as many different layout files as you have printed pages that constitute the "plans" of the project, each layout file named for what it communicates of the project, all kept in a single folder or directry on your hard drive. DJP

Here is my attempt to answer what I "think" you were asking: DJP