DavidJPotter

The "trick" is not moving the house but rather moving the terrain relative to the house foot print. This You Tube Tutorial may help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hncV8yl-ND0 DJP

The auto-build roof tool does just that, it will build a roof over ANY enclosed space on ANY floor unless you specifically program that space not to have a roof. So if your foundation walls are not aligned with the first floor walls you get a roof system on the ground over such wall mismatches. Align your walls, floor to floor and then that "feature" will handle itself. I cannot comment on problem number one since I do not see it in your posted image, can you be a little more specific please? DJP

Temporary points were part of the program early on that were used to manually edit roofs, they still have some utility as "temporary points" from which you can use as location and anchor points for other purely 2D CAD purposes. They are fully explained in the Reference manual. They are created automatically when you move the mouse and left-click. They can be turned on and off in "Edit - Preferences" at least in the most recent versions. DJP

It would be easier to address your question if I could tell what the "truss" was intended to look like, do you have a photo or sketch? In Home Designer Pro, you do have a "Truss Tool" but how to use it is better found out by reading the reference manual, watching tutorial videos followed by practice using the tool. DJP

Dragging an object is the "hard" way to resize, the easiest way is to open the object's Specification Dialog where you will find "input boxes" for length and width where you simple change the value you desire and then close the dialog using the "OK" button. DJP

With NOTHING selected (that means nothing selected) hit the "Delete" key for each one of the "current points" (x's) present, there is also a command icon under the "CAD" menu called "Delete Points", either method works to remove them. DJP

Rod, Thank you for the expaination. you should use 2D CAD Lines and dimension lines for such layouts, since there is no good, exact way to use x-y coordinates. I always use dimensions to locate such objects measured from known points on my property or house structure. This is especially true in Suite where such things are harder to locate but dimensions always work. DJP

Double doors is merely a drop-down menu choice on the "Front Tab" of the "Cabinet Specification Dialog", take a look (again) DJP

Since such minuteness of starting location is unimportant, I am not sure what you are trying to "solve" by having the answer to your question. Few Home Designer users are aware of the existence of much less the significance of "x, y and z" relative to CAD software. "Relative X, Y and Z" coordinates are displayed in the "Taskbar" of Suite (lower right) but precise placement of a point at 0-0-0 can only be easily done using Home Designer Pro or Chief Premier using the provided "input point" tool. You would be better served just to draw than to worry about some theoretical, virtual point from which to draw from IMHO. DJP

I often use objects from the "shapes" library (boxes with open tops, grouped together). You can also use a base cabinet with its countertop removed and get a similar effect, then place plant objects in the box along with some virtual dirt (a slab or soffit with its material set to "soil"). DJP

Simple Architectural appliques can be made using "soffits" (cabinet tools). either straight or sloped in groups. Such things can be searched for and downloaded as a ".skp" file from 3D Warehouse and then imported into your software. They are just adornments that are commonly crafted in the field by carpenters, some fancier type objects can be purchased pre-formed and then attached to a home. DJP

That is not a feature that exists currently in any Home Designer title (Chief Architect Premier has this tool only), sorry. You can apply a sloped soffit along such slopes but not a molding profile. DJP

I agree with Kat in that you first need to learn where the tools are, what they are for and what they do. You study about a tool, and then practice using that tool until you see the connection between its theory and its application. When you then feel more confident you dabble with some idea, you create it using the knowledge you have taught yourself. An Architect goes to school for six years just to become an apprentice. Take it a slow, a little bit at a time and enjoy the creative ride! DJP

The "go easy on newbies" is a cute thing to say but in fact, the only way from incompetence to competence is by way of applied study, followed by practice of what one just studied until the theory studied then becomes useful knowledge and experience. There is no other route other than turning apparent "mystery" into knowledge. Ability is earned, driven by one's intention. Nothing easily acquired is worth keeping. DJP

Here is a bicycle you can use in Home Designer: DJP Bicycle.calibz

Andrew, thank you for the reply. It is as I at first thought in that you are guessing what is to happen instead of finding out what to do and then practicing with that new knowledge. It is not a crime, we all did it (do it) as new users but I am just saying it is mostly a waste of your valuable time to merely guess how things work and then become miffed if your guess is wrong. The purpose of the Reference Manual, Knowledge Base Help Articles, Help Files and video tutorials is to find out with certainty what to do, when and why. It may seem old fashioned and conservative but learning how to do something before attempting to do that thing has worked out to be a positive thing for centuries. The battlefield is covered with the broken, dying and injured persons who "already know all about it". Find out how and then do by way of study followed by applied practice is my advice. DJP

Each object (including Walls) has a "Specification Dialog" that has a "Materials Tab" which unerringly allows one to apply custom materials to the object. If you are using the "Material Painter" or "Materials Eye Dropper" tools without having studied followed by practice using the four differing "Modes" those tools are capable of then all sorts of nonsense and chaos can then ensue. I do not know what you did, I am guessing since you did not explain, in detail exactly what you did that apparently did not work. Not knowing how the software works or what to expect is something that takes time to see for yourself, that is how mystery then becomes useful knowledge. DJP

In Suite, you guide the software to a desired result by settings alone (unlike HD Pro where you can manually manipulate roof objects). The same is true for "Dormers" in that the default settings (Edit- Default Settings - Dormer) must be planned out (set up) to fit the geometry (space-location) of the roof where you intend to then place a dormer object. The dormer object must perfectly fit within the boundaries of a single roof plane (Dormers cannot cross the edge of adjacent roof planes). So you either carefully set up and plan your Dormer or you do a lot of trial and error until you get the right settings. Dormers can also be automatically created provided the correct set up and planning is done (see Knowledge Base at the Home Designer Website for specific help articles on how to create, dormers by preplanning and set up. The Reference Manual also contains Help articles about dormer creation). I suggest the study followed by practice method over mere trial and error (the number of possible "fails" is infinite whereas there are only a few correct combinations that add up to success). DJP

A room in this software is a space fully enclosed with three or more walls, when the walls that form a room are fully closed (connected to each other), then and only then can you obtain a "Room Specification Dialog" that allows you to further refine and define the specific room. DJP

Once casing and sill are suppressed, the ONLY way to thereafter select and specify such an object is by carefully selecting it in plan view by zooming in close but not too close. I usually do not suppress the casing and sill until I have it the size and location I need and want. DJP

It could be that the cabinet is a little recessed into the wall (that would make the backsplash appear inside of the wall, making it invisible for all practical purposes). or if all else fails (so it seems it already has) you can manually replace missing backsplash using reshaped, manually placed soffit objects and then apply your backsplash material to them, Soffits are part of "Cabinet Tools" but can often fill in for other types of objects. DJP

Here is a You Tube video of me fumbling around with your problem: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rug9VThzVaE DJP

A lot of symbols available at 3D warehouse are merely simple boxes with a photoshop, custom texture painted across its 3D faces, these do not translate well to Chief Architect and Home Designer titles because the texture which communicates the detail, is lost in the import. High quality symbols are modeled with the detail built into the symbol and can have any material applied to their surfaces thereafter, the one you picked is problematic for that same reason (a short-cut to a result and in this case a poor result). Were I you, I would just skip it and try another symbol and once you find a good one, just make or apply your own material to its surfaces, it is a good skill to develop. DJP

Yes but you must think ahead and plan considering the way the software is programmed to work. It is a mechanical device that you must guide to a result (It will not do your thinking or planning for you). Each separate structure will probably have differing floor heights unless your lot is totally flat like a piece of paper, so you have to allow for that and in the second building you must manually calculate its relative floor and ceiling heights in relation to the other structure. Work it out on paper first and then apply what you calculate to each structure. DJP

In each version there are various "software titles" (ie: Pro, Architectural, Suite, Interiors, Essentials, or Deck and Lawn Designer), Which one do you, in fact have? Symbols at 3D Warehouse are free (no cost in terms of money) but the quality of these symbols is a wild variable (3D warehouse has no "Quality Control" like the symbols you can get from Chief Architect and Home Designer". I often just have to discard a symbol because it is poorly made. Your only alternative is to download and learn Sketch Up so symbols you like can then be edited or repaired, you can even make your own but it takes time to really learn Sketch Up, My advice is to try a symbol and if you get lousy results, try another one, until you find one that serves your purpose. You can really learn Sketch Up or just discard "flat-tires" as you find them. Most users here have version 2015 and 2014, version 10 is "old", I have those version 10 titles but I need to know which one you have so when I import the sketch up symbols you mention above, I will then be able to duplicate your results DJP