solver

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Everything posted by solver

  1. Try a doorway in the opening. Turn off casing and everything else. make it as wide and tall as the opening.
  2. Create an open space and place the dividers manually using Partitions or Soffits.
  3. Study up on Dimension Defaults.
  4. This is a similar to the soffit problem. The program, internally, sees the walls as extending higher than is shown in a camera view.
  5. Soffits are cabinets. You may be able to turn off "create automatic fillers" in cabinet defaults. This will effect all cabinets in the plan, not just soffits.
  6. solver

    barndominiums

    None of the Chief Architect products are designed for this, but may work for you. It also depends on what type of metal home you will build. Many different combinations -- finishing the interior of a pre engineered building, building using light or heavy gauge steel studs etc. The software was designed with typical wood framed construction in mind. I would recommend Home Designer Pro as a minimum, because if its ability to define wall types and to create and modify framing. 30 Day trials are available, and you can always upgrade by paying the difference in cost.
  7. It's easier for others if you will post an image, instead of a PDF of an image. Also, marking up the image to identify the problem area is helpful. And, for questions like this, posting the plan is the best way to get a good suggestion, because it's almost always it depends. You can use Edit>Edit Area (All Floors) to cut out only the relevant part of the plan.
  8. Look at the Layer Display Settings.
  9. You can't. I would choose another type of object, a slab or soffit, for example. You need something with a Fill property.
  10. The "correct" way is to model the roof as it is, but in this case, that's not needed. All you need to do is create a roof structure that provides room for the cathedral ceiling below. In the Build Roof Dialog, enter a value in the field indicated. 6" is plenty. This tells the program to raise the roof structure an extra amount, keeping it out of your way. This has no effect on ceiling heights, only the roof. Also make sure the roof pitch is higher than the ceiling pitch. Your ceiling looks like a 3 or 4 pitch, so make sure the roof is greater, like 6 or 8. Make The 3 walls shown Full Gable. Build the roof. In the Build Roof dialog, change the roof pitch to match your ceiling pitch, and draw in 2 ceiling planes. I made 2 videos, but did not change the pitch before drawing the ceiling planes, so the videos show how to do it manually. Next draw in your own ceiling planes. http://screencast-o-matic.com/watch/cbffbj68Gp http://screencast-o-matic.com/watch/cbffbl68m1
  11. Are you only concerned with the interior of the house? You need a roof over that single room to create the cathedral? What "messes up"? What's wrong with what you have?
  12. The program uses the concept of a Room. You control the ceiling above each room by changing settings in the Room Specification dialog. If you want a cathedral ceiling in a specific area, that area needs to be defined as a room. Resources for self help: The built in Help System (always a good place to start) Getting Started Knowledge Base YouTube
  13. solver

    Support Posts

    All the Chief Architect products have issues with this -- not just decks one above the other, but rooms over porches, decks over rooms etc. Home Designer Pro allows you to modify program generated framing and create your own framing members as needed. Pro also lets you create a railing with posts and a beam. I'm not familiar with the capabilities of Architectural. You could get the trial for Architectural and try it.
  14. solver

    Support Posts

    My Terrain comment was not directed at you. I copy and paste that entire block when I see a new user, and forgot to delete it and make a proper comment on your question. Suite is limited when it comes to being able to automatically do this. Its been discussed before, and a forum search will likely turn up some useful info. You could make your own post from soffits as I've shown here, or from a Solid Shape found in the Library.
  15. A DXF is not useful. Make a copy of the plan and delete all the furniture, cars etc. You could just delete everything inside the exterior walls, including interior walls.
  16. It can't be open in Pro. You may zip it for faster up and downloads, but it's not required. Attach it just like an image.
  17. Posting your plan will help. I'm sure it's something simple, but just guessing without the plan.
  18. Turn off the sun and see how they look.
  19. Roof structures do not necessarily reflect the ceilings below. See if these articles help. https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/search/?q=cathedral&default_tab=support
  20. May be Pro only then. I looked a bit more at you plan this morning, but got busy with other things and never posted. Go to the Attic level and use the Delete Current Floor command to delete it -- it will automatically rebuild itself. The program is bad about building automatic walls in the attic that cause problems later. You don't need a room above the garage, unless you do need a room over the garage. On the 2nd floor, delete the garage walls. The ones that are needed will immediately rebuild. I changed the back wall above the garage, and around the side, to match the rest of the exterior walls and the roof built cleanly. I may have fiddled with roof settings on some of the garage walls.
  21. I don't get the raised area over the stairs. Do suggest you set your default ceiling height for the 2nd floor and then Edit>Reset to Defaults to get everything reset. You will need to raise the office ceiling manually to get the roof up even with the higher part.
  22. You should be transferring a file named something like this Home_Designer_Pro-16.3.0.59-Win64.msi I think. That is for Pro 2015, 2014 may have used a different format.
  23. Anything where? The thumb drive, or the new laptop? Have you tried your Digital Locker?