solver

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Everything posted by solver

  1. Spend some time learning manual roofs. What you need to do is really simple. Select the roof plane you want to move. Use the Transform/Replicate tool to move it up or down (z axis). The wall will follow it. Now in a camera view showing the roof planes, click the ridge of one, press 2, click on the other ridge to rejoin the ridges. If that does not work, select the ridge and pull the roof plane back down towards the eave, then try again. Open the Roof Plane Specification dialog. On the first panel, you can see where you can change pitch, and various heights. Draw a 1 room structure, put a gable roof on it, then play with the settings to see what each does.
  2. The program needs a wall for wall mounted electrical. Define a new wall type that looks like this. The name is not important. Enter 1/512 for the thickness -- the program will show it as 0. This will create an invisible wall you can use anywhere you need electrical on something that's not a wall. I also use this as a Room Divider, which is why it's named RD. It works better than the Room Divider wall type that is built in.
  3. Where have you looked? 3D Warehouse?
  4. What have you been trying to figure out?
  5. Be mindful of your ceiling height upstairs. I raised the backside roof I think, 4'.
  6. Pull the walls out and then back under the stair. I added a tread to the lower flight and removed one from the upper.
  7. In my Suite 2016, i drew a default exterior wall. Changed the siding material to aluminum siding. I copied that wall and pasted it, and it's the same.
  8. What are you trying to do? Copy/paste works as expected here.
  9. Suite has many limitations. See if this recent thread helps.
  10. I drew a second structure in your plan and had the same problem as you. I copied your walls into a new plan, and the trusses built correctly. Guessing there is an incorrect setting somewhere. Try a new plan. Don't build any framing, just the roof planes. Place a truss.
  11. No. You do need to build/rebuild the roof before drawing the truss. The 12" raise may need to be adjusted, depending on your overhang. You can do the math, or just raise / lower a bit and then rebuild.
  12. I just started my 2015 version of Pro and it has the option. Your 2014 version may have it in a different place. Have you searched Help for Roof Height?
  13. This has nothing to do with rafter tails. Look at the first panel in the Build Roof dialog.
  14. solver

    Custom centre island

    All the webinars focus on Home Designer Pro, or Chief Architect. NKBA is only in Chief Architect. It depends on what type of countertop you want to build. Pro has a Custom Countertop tool, and other tools to make almost any type of counter you could imagine, Suite is limited to using the Soffit tool.
  15. I'm trying to understand, so let me attempt to summarize. Your question is not about how windows are dimensioned in plan, but how you enter the dimension. You would like to enter an inside dimension and have the software add whatever additional you have specified (frame/jamb) etc. Did you know that you can do math within the entry field? You could enter 24+1.5, for example.
  16. With Pro, you could define a new thick wall that acts like 2 parallel walls. Your main layer would be 2x4, air gap, 2x4. This is the best way to do this if the wall will have doors or windows. For the ceilings, where you have cathedral ceilings, consider drawing in your own ceiling plane. In the master bedroom, you are looking at the underside of the roof plane, so there is a odd angle above the door.
  17. The defaults you see are what you have. Don't you still need the actual window dimension? Are you saying the program is wrongly dimensioning a window? If I want a 3040 window, I enter those dimensions as 36" high and 48" wide. If I measure an existing window and only get a partial (inaccurate) measurement, then I also need determine how much to add or subtract to produce a valid dimension, which I would then enter into the program.