solver

Trusses are drawn manually so you may place them as needed. Videos on YouTube -- watch the Chief Architect ones, that show trusses.

A few ideas. It's fairly typical on a house like this with angles to use parapet walls and very low slope roofs where sections join at other than 90 degrees. You have a good start here. I think a house like this should look like it has evolved over time, so all the different roof planes make sense. I've designed before starting with a small space, then adding additional structure as it might have been done.

I'll suggest you download the trial of Chief. Study and use it for a month. There are also free videos available for the people doing the trial on the Chief Architect site, along with many good videos on YouTube. Consider watching the videos prior to the trial, giving you a head start.

You are not changing the wall, you are changing the location of the window. The dimensions shown are from window to window, or window to wall, and have nothing to do with the containing wall.

I use CAD lines frequently for alignment and positioning. For example, to position something on one floor, in reference to something on another floor. Place 2 CAD lines (one on x axis, one on Y) and center them on the referenced item. Copy the CAD lines, go to other floor, Paste Hold Position. Place your object and center using the CAD lines. Here is a video showing the use of CAD lines to position the windows. When the cursor goes off the screen, I'm clicking the center tool. http://screencast-o-matic.com/watch/cbnqbE62UI

Room on right set to Garage. No other changes. Basement/foundation on Level 0. I think you have answered your own question. Auto rebuild foundation is really only useful for simple foundations -- slab and crawlspace, not a typical basement. What I would do for your plan is; set defaults, draw first floor and build basement/foundation (level 0). Once the foundation looked correct, turn off auto rebuild and proceed. It's also easy to copy what's inside the basement walls, rebuild the foundation, then paste back in place what you copied.

You don't need to drag. I made a video -- see if it helps. http://screencast-o-matic.com/watch/cbnqDP62tL If it does not play, try another browser. It worked using Microsoft Edge, but not a Chrome based browser.

Pass-through in wall. Turn off all components. Soffit to fill hole. Glass Block from library on the soffit.

Done with Pro.

Yes there is. You can use dimensions -- automatic or drawn for this task, or temporary dimensions. You could draw a CAD line at the center of the wall, pulling dimensions from it.

This general problem is often discussed on the Chief Architect form -- plenty of confusion on the professional side too. Posting your plan file is the best way to get help.

No, although in Pro, that may be a good way. This was done in Chief, and not sure Pro could duplicate it. Notice the red wall behind at the top, and how you see it through the glass blocks. The CMU wall looks the same, front and back.

Use a Room Divider wall drawn parallel to, and positioned whatever distance is required from the wall you do not want to connect to. The butting wall will snap to the Room Divider. You may shorten the Room Divider wall so it does not show in the plan.

I forgot to add, you cannot lock a wall. Others have asked the same question. With an understanding and proper use of the dimension tool, it's not needed.

Another suggestion -- looks like you are using the default exterior wall type. Not what I would expect in a 130 year old structure. Consider defining a new wall type, or types, that accurately reflect the construction, and especially the thickness of the existing walls, both inside and out. Much easier to do this now, rather than after all are in place.

It would make it easier for us (me) if you would add some text notes to the plan making specifics easy to locate. I believe this image shows what you want to do. I changed the 6' wall to 4', and the 7' wall remained the same. You should see how I did it. I made the 6' wall shorter, by selecting and moving the wall connected to it. I believe users often want to directly change the length of a specific wall, instead of using that same dimension to move another wall into its correct location. No. Display Options is just what it says. It turns the display of layers on and off. It does not turn settings or features on or off. That's not really needed. Just draw a basic shape, start in one corner and work your way around the house correcting the dimensions as you go. Temporary Dimensions will work like this too, where you directly edit the wall length. Here is a video showing a way of entering dimensions as you go. It's for Chief, but I believe Pro has the same tools.

Add your walls to your template plan (profile.plan is the default template). They will then be available in plans created from that template.

Edit>Delete Objects Select all Floors, and Dimensions. This will delete them and turn off the auto rebuilding of them. By "mess", I was referring to the visual. Sometimes you cannot see the plan itself because of all the auto generated dimensions. The program does not "auto-adjust" walls -- that's user error. Just use Temporary Dimensions. Don't use any automatic dimensions, and only place your own dimensions as needed, then delete them when no longer needed. Use the Interior Dimension tool, for example, but then delete that dimension. Temporary Dimensions only show when other dimensions are not available Pro has good enough dimension tools. Read up on them, practice a bit to see what they do, then use as needed. Make sure you setup your dimension defaults. I set mine to Wall Surface, for example, because that's normally how an existing house is measured, and when working on new construction, I want to know the surface to surface dimension, not framing to framing.

ChiefWonzayear -- You need to contact Chief Architect Technical Support. This is a user to user forum.

Make that room Open Below, or a Slab or Porch. You might need to remove the floor, or set it to a material like Opening/No Material.

Fix the pitch -- you have it at 120". Uncheck Ignore Top Floor.

Post pictures and/or plan.

Yours on the left. Center one is 2 cabinets that overlap where they join. Far right is a single cabinet. From standard cabinet, remove all parts, leaving just the back, sides and top. Split vertically, and set size of one side. Add back components, and adjust size.