solver

Forgot to say -- yes. There is a second way that's tedious and time consuming, but will give the most accurate representation. It uses a separate roof plane for the overhang. Stop the primary roof plane at the outer wall edge. Its structure represents reality. Use a 2nd roof plane for the overhang -- T&G instead of OSB for sheathing, larger framing members to represent the exposed framing etc.

Manual roofs just take a bit of practice. They may be moved around in many ways, using Copy/Reflect About, or Transform/Replicate for example. Just need to think about where the edges need to be to connect to an adjoining plane. Learning to place breaks in edges is key, and really helps when connecting planes with different slope. There are good videos on YouTube. Search for advanced roof.

It depends on how the truss is built. You need to know the Heel Height. One big advantage to auto building the roof, is things like this are easy to change. Although the exterior appearance will change -- the entire roof structure will move up or down. Try it with that setting, build framing, take a cross section and see how it looks. You might need a Raised Heel truss. If the truss is built like the lower one, a 3-1/2" rafter should work.

For manual roofs. 1) In plan, align the bottom of the blue with the top of the red. Take the ridge height from red, open blue, lock the pitch, set the fascia height to match the red ridge height. This lowers blue, and makes the 2 planes join correctly. Pull the blue ridge back a bit and join it at the ridge. 2) Decide how the green roof needs to join to blue and red. I'll assume the fascia heights should match green and red. Set the overhang on green. Get the fascia height from red, open green, lock pitch and change the fascia height. Pull the edge of green facing blue back -- you want to give it room to join. Place a break along that edge and pull it out to form a V. You want to guide the program, and adding breaks is needed especially where you have different pitches. Work your way around manually shaping each plane to get it close, then join them with the program.

I think doing an auto build is the best way to get started. Looking at the plan, it needs to be cleaned up before working on the roof. In a copy of your plan... Start by setting all your defaults. Structure and Roof. Then Edit>Reset To Defaults. Select All Floors, check all the boxes, then OK. Manually set ceiling heights as required in rooms where it's non standard. Select all the walls you want gabled, and set them as Full Gable. Build the roof. You should be very close. Remember, roofs build over rooms, ceiling heights control the position of the roof above.

I don't know a simple, one click way to do this, although there may be. In Layer Display Options, you may change color and line weight, which is what I did for the plan in the image. I left a few things with their original settings so they would show. You should be able to multi select items and change color for all at once. In Chief Architect, I could create a unique layer set with these settings, and simply apply them as needed. With Pro, I believe, they will need to be changed as required, and cannot be saved.

Have you tried auto building the roof? I easily came very close, and could have done better with a bit more effort. For any complex roof, I'll always start with an auto build to see if it's close, then manually modify as needed.

Edit>Delete Objects Choose the Scope and what to delete (dimensions). This will turn off any Auto Dimensions.

Couple of ideas. All need refinement. And a suggestion. Get the floor plan as you want before working on the roof.

I never use the Dormer tools, instead drawing in my own. With Pro, you have all the tools to do so. Much less frustrating than trying to get the auto dormers to behave.

Right dormer spaced to match left. Right dormer moved as far to the left as it will go. You do have an unused dormer on the 2nd floor that should be deleted, but I don't think it's causing problems with the one that is visible.

Trusses are drawn manually so you may place them as needed. Videos on YouTube -- watch the Chief Architect ones, that show trusses.

A few ideas. It's fairly typical on a house like this with angles to use parapet walls and very low slope roofs where sections join at other than 90 degrees. You have a good start here. I think a house like this should look like it has evolved over time, so all the different roof planes make sense. I've designed before starting with a small space, then adding additional structure as it might have been done.

I'll suggest you download the trial of Chief. Study and use it for a month. There are also free videos available for the people doing the trial on the Chief Architect site, along with many good videos on YouTube. Consider watching the videos prior to the trial, giving you a head start.

You are not changing the wall, you are changing the location of the window. The dimensions shown are from window to window, or window to wall, and have nothing to do with the containing wall.

I use CAD lines frequently for alignment and positioning. For example, to position something on one floor, in reference to something on another floor. Place 2 CAD lines (one on x axis, one on Y) and center them on the referenced item. Copy the CAD lines, go to other floor, Paste Hold Position. Place your object and center using the CAD lines. Here is a video showing the use of CAD lines to position the windows. When the cursor goes off the screen, I'm clicking the center tool. http://screencast-o-matic.com/watch/cbnqbE62UI

Room on right set to Garage. No other changes. Basement/foundation on Level 0. I think you have answered your own question. Auto rebuild foundation is really only useful for simple foundations -- slab and crawlspace, not a typical basement. What I would do for your plan is; set defaults, draw first floor and build basement/foundation (level 0). Once the foundation looked correct, turn off auto rebuild and proceed. It's also easy to copy what's inside the basement walls, rebuild the foundation, then paste back in place what you copied.

You don't need to drag. I made a video -- see if it helps. http://screencast-o-matic.com/watch/cbnqDP62tL If it does not play, try another browser. It worked using Microsoft Edge, but not a Chrome based browser.

Pass-through in wall. Turn off all components. Soffit to fill hole. Glass Block from library on the soffit.

Done with Pro.

Yes there is. You can use dimensions -- automatic or drawn for this task, or temporary dimensions. You could draw a CAD line at the center of the wall, pulling dimensions from it.

This general problem is often discussed on the Chief Architect form -- plenty of confusion on the professional side too. Posting your plan file is the best way to get help.

No, although in Pro, that may be a good way. This was done in Chief, and not sure Pro could duplicate it. Notice the red wall behind at the top, and how you see it through the glass blocks. The CMU wall looks the same, front and back.