solver

You need to rebuild the roof. Set the ceiling height back down in the main space, set the ceiling height up in the bump out. Build the roof, then set the ceilings back to their actual height. Remember roofs build over walls and wall height is controlled by the ceiling height.

What Jo Ann said.

What's the problem? Draw in walls on 2nd floor, set one to full gable. Posting images of what you see (screen capture) will help others help you.

You will need to call tech support. This is a user to user forum and you need someone form Chief Architect.

You should be able to login to the Chief website from any computer and activate/deactivate.

No guide that I know of. You might search around in Tips & Techniques for any info posted by a user. Tags are whatever you want them to be. Completely optional. I believe you have the basics since you managed to post this.

Attic Draw Exterior wall -- set to Attic Wall Set Lower Wall Type When Split By Butting Roof

Oops -- I left out that part. It should be Molding head 3 in the library. If it works, I'll make you one using your dimensions. And it can be saved anywhere. Also, just double clicking on it should do the install into Pro.

Soffits have magic properties that are often unwanted but cannot simply be turned on or off. Slabs are far less likely to cause these type of problems. Here is a molding you might try. Use as a Lintel and check Wrap. After copying the file to your PC, drag it into Pro, or Library>Import Library Door-Window Head Trim 1.calibz

Are you able to duplicate what I showed?

That's the way it's normally done. Start a new plan, you are on Level 1. Build a new floor. The software creates a new Level 2. No need to move up a level.

The software works best when you build the ground floor (1st floor to us in the US), then build the basement/foundation. The terrain has nothing to do with anything other than itself. That is you don't draw on the terrain, you don't need a terrain, but if you have one, you move it in relation to the structure, and it generally works best if drawn on the ground (1st) floor. You must Build a new floor before you may draw on it. Build>Floor>Build New Floor

I was just wondering about you Keith. I'm clueless as to what you want like David. Your plan has drawing on level 2. If it's not where you want it, move it. Delete the floors below and it will move down, or use Edit Area to select it, cut then paste/hold position on the floor you do want it on.

Blocking won't work. Check the manufacturer and bonus catalogs. The head trim is a lintel and uses a molding. Chief lets you build create molding profiles, Home Designer may only use them.

No

Bearing line in the corner.

Work in a copy, or make a backup copy first. In Layer Display Options, lock everything but the items you want to move. Select all then rotate away.

For a roof hole, place a skylight, open it and uncheck Skylight.

You cannot simply locate the post, but you can work with the software to many times get them where you want. You can change the spacing. Try using wall breaks. Draw a section of railing, break it and immediately reverse the layers of one section. This reversing keeps the walls from rejoining.

What was the issue? Pro has that ability. Explode the dormer -- drag walls as needed.

Draw a wall under the stair. Have you tried that?

Draw in walls.

Do you not understand what I posted above?

What do you expect to see? See this Knowledge Base article -- always a good place to search. https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00137/placing-a-picture-painting-or-photo-on-a-wall.html

Take a drive an look at some new houses under construction. 24" spacing is quite common and plenty strong.