Jo_Ann

Just guessing, but if you are referring to the roof on the room labeled "porch": On the front wall of the porch, if you wish to keep the lower pitch set at 3", then you need to set the "in from baseline" to 112". Auto Rebuild Roof is turned off, so you will have to rebuild the roof for the change to happen.

Is this interior? You are way too non-specific about what you are really trying to get. If it is a bar type look (like your 1st picture), then try this: 1) Draw a full size interior wall, and add a wide doorway (not a pass-thru). 2) AWAY from your doorway wall, draw a wide half-wall, and add a hinged door to it. 3) Open the half-wall and set it as "no room definition". 4) Now, ctrl-drag this wall into the doorway wall. You will need to off-set it slightly if you don't want the existing doorway casing to show all the way to the floor.

Looking at your basement pony wall...I think you need to reassess it. The thin stone veneer is likely to be much thicker than 1/2" (more likely 3"). Make the bottom half of the pony wall to be the thicker stone concrete wall, and the top half a siding-6 wall with the vertical wood siding material applied. Now when you alter the height of the pony wall, you will see the stone ledge protruding out from the upper sided wall (as it should). You can add a shaped "ledge" to the wall using a library shape, or maybe a soffit with a molding applied. The below ground part of the wall is where the backsplash would be best to use, with Hardie wrap material applied. The wall won't be entirely correct, but the visible upper part of the wall will look better than what you currently have.

The "purpose" of a pony wall is NOT just to change the exterior material. It can also change the wall types, upper and lower, from each other. You need to read up on pony walls.

You need to post the PLAN file, for someone to see what you've really done, to get a good answer. Your description doesn't really tell what you've done.

Try opening their dialog box and turning them ON. Be sure to use a full camera for viewing.

You changed the dimensions of the building, from what you originally said. I think the cladding issue might be a software bug, because my older program does not do that. The newer version does show that issue. Best choice is probably to cover it up with a custom backsplash. As for your strange looking roof...well, you didn't follow the directions exactly. PLUS, you need to adjust some of the upper pitch settings, because you changed some dimensions.

A "fake" dormer with "fake" roof trim around the exterior walls of the 2nd floor, using HD Architectural: In this example, the default roof pitch is set to 11". 1) Create a full height 2nd story room, with the east/west walls set as a gable. FAKE ROOF TRIM: 2) Use the room divider wall to draw 4 new invisible walls around the 2nd floor of the house. Make sure all the walls are connected, to form a "room". Open each wall, and set it's distance from the exterior siding to 12" ( so that they are all equal distance). Set the east/west walls as a gable. 3) Open the dialog box for the new "room". Designate it as "open below". On the structure tab...set ceiling height to 0", uncheck "ceiling over this room", put a check in the box "use soffit surface". FAKE DORMER: 4) Open the exterior sided front wall. On the roof tab, set the pitch to 4.75". Put a check in "upper pitch", set the upper pitch to 11", set "in from baseline" to 140". Do this for the back wall, also. If you followed the directions, you should have what is shown in the pic. If your settings are different from mine, then you will need to adjust them to get the desired results.

That roof can easily be auto-roof built. Like DJP mentioned, pay attention to ceiling heights, and also to the way the rooms are situated. When the roof is correct, you can turn OFF auto build roof, and change ceiling heights and walls within the building, to what they are supposed to be.

Just use soffits or box shapes (library) to make the the bottom, cap, and even the post. Size them correctly, add the correct materials, and ctrl drag them into each other. DONE. This IS the "quick fix"! The toe kick CAN be deleted from a cabinet in Suite.

??????????? GOOD GRIEF!!

The plan you uploaded has no dormer added.

Open the porch "room" dialog box, and check "use soffit".

I don't know why this works... On level 0, uncheck "roof over this room".

You need to experiment with the stair settings.

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With Architectural, you will need to use an inverted wedge from the library, to cover it up.

You need to read the instructions. https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00498/creating-stairs-in-sloping-terrain.html

So, do the same thing that you did up front. The reason it didn't work for you in your video, is because you have to keep a small gap between the dormer wall, and the interior wall.

Maybe this is what you are trying to do?

1) I do not see that large fir wall designated as a "railing". Draw a railing wall over it, and change it's style in the railing wall dbx, to show only posts to ceiling. 2) On floor 1, delete the wall directly below the balcony railing wall, and the balcony railing will show correctly. 3) The balcony needs to be shortened, and the stairs extended over to it, to avoid bumping into the exterior/roof wall. You can then set the portion of the new wall at the top of the stairs, as "invisible". 4) On floor 2, uncheck "flat ceiling over this room". Architectural does not build rafters, so you will have to build your own (use sloped soffits).

The elevated regions are shown with different hatch patterns. The side walls are regular terrain walls, and the horizontal walls are terrain retaining walls.

It's really very unclear what you want the front to look like?

AND... I was not meaning to be condescending or rude to Ducati007. I was only stating the FACTS.