Jo_Ann

corbels

Since you have not uploaded the plan, I guessed at replicating it, based on the picture. Using auto build roof, I did not get the same results.

"Yikes I've got a mess!" is an understatement. You have so many things to fix, with BOTH the house and terrain, that I wouldn't even know where to begin. But as for setting a height for a "region", take a closer look at the terrain tools. You have an elevation region and a flat region. Which tool do you think that you should use if you want to specify a height?

Why not use 4 customized slabs to create 4 steps?

Have you looked in the library????

In my Architectural 2018 program, the draw order tool does NOT work for the towel (furniture layer). Sending stools under a cabinet counter overhang (2d view) using the draw order tool, has never worked, either. In the trial Pro 2018, and also Pro 2021 trial, the draw order tool works like it's supposed to. Maybe this is a bug with the Architectural program version, that was never fixed. Because you have the new 2022 version of Architectural, you should report it.

So you found a way to work around your problem, but it was not done the correct way. You have STILL not said what cabinet you are using, or how you inserted the sink. In the pic you posted, it looks like the cabinet is showing in the sink bowl.

You really need to add some more info. What cabinet are you using, and what towel?

When experimenting with this last night, the wall socket was placed on the floor (as a floor outlet) instead of the soffit. The room divider wall allowed the outlet to be placed on the soffit. TODAY... the outlet places on the soffit without the added room divider wall. ????? Weird!

Replace the boxes with soffits. Add a very short room divider wall inside the soffit. Add the outlet.

The easy way? Soffits and invisible walls are your friends.

Assuming you drew the stairs on floor 1, that is the floor that will allow you to select the stairs.

Set the room as a "deck" instead of a balcony. You will then need to go back to the porch room below, and recheck the default ceiling finish. Presuming that you don't want the deck support beam showing on the porch ceiling, open the deck room, and set the beam material to misc>no material.

Set the front wall (roof tab) as "full gable". Set the right side wall as "high shed gable".

??? The railing is always present, unless you remove it.

I think you should download the trial versions of Architectural and Pro, to see for yourself which version would serve your needs better. Architectural has sloped soffits and a custom backsplash tool, that can be put to good use for your purpose.

I think it's easier to use a soffit for the base. Size it correctly, and plop it down. A soffit also works better for the soldier brick course. Use the rainbow tool if the x / y position needs to be altered. The soldier course will now look correct on all four sides.

Good grief. It took almost 5 minutes for my internet to open just one of your pics! You need to NOT be "guessing". Start measuring, then you might be able to deal with your terrain elevations. But that's NOT your only problem. I see what looks to be incorrect ceiling heights, and possibly some incorrect roof pitches, too.

https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00440/creating-an-in-ground-swimming-pool.html or https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00447/adding-a-pond-and-stream-to-your-terrain.html

Just guessing, but if you are referring to the roof on the room labeled "porch": On the front wall of the porch, if you wish to keep the lower pitch set at 3", then you need to set the "in from baseline" to 112". Auto Rebuild Roof is turned off, so you will have to rebuild the roof for the change to happen.

Is this interior? You are way too non-specific about what you are really trying to get. If it is a bar type look (like your 1st picture), then try this: 1) Draw a full size interior wall, and add a wide doorway (not a pass-thru). 2) AWAY from your doorway wall, draw a wide half-wall, and add a hinged door to it. 3) Open the half-wall and set it as "no room definition". 4) Now, ctrl-drag this wall into the doorway wall. You will need to off-set it slightly if you don't want the existing doorway casing to show all the way to the floor.

Looking at your basement pony wall...I think you need to reassess it. The thin stone veneer is likely to be much thicker than 1/2" (more likely 3"). Make the bottom half of the pony wall to be the thicker stone concrete wall, and the top half a siding-6 wall with the vertical wood siding material applied. Now when you alter the height of the pony wall, you will see the stone ledge protruding out from the upper sided wall (as it should). You can add a shaped "ledge" to the wall using a library shape, or maybe a soffit with a molding applied. The below ground part of the wall is where the backsplash would be best to use, with Hardie wrap material applied. The wall won't be entirely correct, but the visible upper part of the wall will look better than what you currently have.

The "purpose" of a pony wall is NOT just to change the exterior material. It can also change the wall types, upper and lower, from each other. You need to read up on pony walls.