DavidJPotter

Please watch some of these Help Videos at the Home Designer Website about working with "Dimensions" DJP

In your program, found IN the "Build Roof Dialog" on the "Roof Styles" tab are short HELP articles on how to set up Home Designer Architectural to then "Automatically" create all basic roof types. Read the articles for the types you need and want, then practice in simple "Test Plans" (you simply draw a rectangular box with walls and then do the set up instructions you learned from the Help articles until you get it right each time. Only then do you then apply it to your intended House.plan file) DJP

The sizes of each room are annotated so you can check the "scale" of the image using those dimensions, you should be able to import that image into Architectural. Like this: DJP

You import the PDF or image into your software in plan view. Then check it dimensions using Home Designer dimension tools to verify it is as close as possible to its annotated dimensions it came in with. You can, if necessary enlarge the image or PDF by left-click-draging one of its corners out to enlarge or inward to make it smaller until its annotated dimensions match as closely as is possible (you can use dimension tools to make the 3D walls more exact with Home Designer dimension tools. Then trace over the exterior walls and interior walls, doors and windows using Home Designer wall, window and door tools to a point where you can then discard the imported image or PDF. This is a Chief Architect video but may help you get going (Chief Premier has tools that Home Designer does not): The process in Home Designer is similar but not exactly the same DJP

If you mean a "Picture" of a floor plan, then yes. You import the image or PDF file into a blank plan file and then check the dimensions of known objects like, for instance, most front doors are found to be 36" wide and interior doors and doorways to be 30 or 32 inches wide. It is even better if the image contains dimensions that can be measured in Home Designer with its dimension tools. You measure and then adjust the image size up or down based upon your measurements by grabbing a corner handle of the image or PDF pulling that selected corner out to enlarge or inward to make it smaller. You then check the dimensions in Home Designer again and again as you make changes until it measures out properly. Then you can just trace over the image using the wall, door and window tools to start the 3D model in Home Designer. Precision can then be created using known or annotated dimensions in Home Designer. DJP

https://youtu.be/LvvF7kcCnxI Take a look please DJP

Chris, I was only able to download the "Front View with Dem.pdf" nothing else downloaded after multiple tries. It would be more useful for you to upload a photo or sketch of the intended roof system and your plan for others to actually help you. DJP

https://youtu.be/qy8AauY7rIM HTH DJP

Symbols like shades or mailboxes are all slightly adjustable but an angle like you want would require a symbol instance for each altered angle. Symbols are merely "placeholders" for what the client actually buys and gets, so either be willing to custom make your own symbols in Sketch Up or make do like the rest of us DJP

Existing Help articles on Walk Th roughs can be read here. Read the articles, then open and practice with a simple test plan to really learn how it is programmed to work and not work, then apply that gained competence to your project DJP

Yes, square footage displays are "per floor" only DJP

Report this to Chief Architect Inc please. DJP

Automatically-NO. Since they are done manually, you can also control, manually their spacing Not sure what you mean by "showing the top cord" since the "top cord" is part of an truss once created There are default settings for Trusses found in "Edit - Default Settings - Framing - Trusses", where you can make default changes to resulting, manually created trusses Not really, the way the truss tool is pre-programmed to function is to fill (with a created truss object) the void between the ceiling surface and the underside of the roof surface, so that would preclude manually raising or lowering a truss object NOTE: as stated in your Reference Manual is a disclaimer by Chief Architect Inc. that Home Designer and Chief Architect software applications are NOT State Licensed Structural Engineers and are thus completely conceptual in nature. Software is not licensed as a valid Structural Engineering source. Thus any and all trusses you may create are purely conceptual in nature (just for show). If you want a visual truss that you can control completely, then you would create one from soffits and sloped soffits to emulate the look of a decorative truss. This, compared to using the truss tool is rather laborious but can be done in Architectural and HD Pro (the key is the ability to create sloped soffits for the top cords and webbing) DJP

DJP

Create a "Blank Second floor", then turn on the "Reference Floor Toggle" (so you can see the outline of the first floor), and then manually draw your second floor walls where you want them. DJP

Yes, read the these posts carefully please and do the study indicated. When ceiling is set to "Zero" that means visually "no ceiling" and or if the "Ceiling structure is set to "zero" again, that means visually "no ceiling". Download here shared plan and LOOK for yourself for proof. DJP

I did this for a Pro 2019 user in Chief Premier X10 using PBR (Physical Based Render) camera view of his Pro model dressed up in X10, it is a boat house on a lake/ DJP

Software, any software is pre-programmed in terms of the visual results possible. I have observed that Chief does a reasonable job in terms of a single mirrored object's reflections but angled or opposing mirrors usually reflect only a dull dark grey appearance. I am not a software engineer or Architect but this is what I have observed to be true. You might call or write Chief Architect Tech Support for a more detailed answer. DJP

If you need further help, please post a copy of your problem plan. DJP

1. Draw the walls using the appropriate wall types that matches you home 2.Verify the exterior dimensions around the footprint of your home. (Innaccurate dimensions equals a worthless outcome) 3. Measure the ceiling height of the majority of your home's rooms and enter that value into "Edit - Default Settings - Floors and Rooms - First Floor - Finished Ceiling Height" (this value locates the "Baseline Height" of your roof planes once built) 4. Calculate the pitch (angle) of your roof planes and then add that value into your "Build Roof Dialog right BEFORE actually ordering your roof system built. 5. You "Tell" or input into your software walls each wall that is to be designated a "Gable Wall" (If you do not understand what that term means "Google It" or study what roof terms mean in the "Build Roof Dialog - Roof Types tab" . 6. Once you have done these things correctly, then and only then, order your roof system be created folloing your correct orders. You get what you input into the software to guide it to a result, if you are not getting the desired result it is YOU who have erred. The software is a mechanical device that requires you competence gained by your study, your practice, failures and successes. It does basically nothing on its own. DJP

https://youtu.be/9KXd4ekv6ww DJP

Makes a BIG difference as to what software title and version you have (different titles and versions have differing abilities and tools available). What do you have? The photo you showed would require Home Designer Pro most likely but, anyway, what do you have? DJP

Jo Ann got it but here it is again visually DJP

You can print to 11x17 and then format your text annotations and scale annotations as if the end product is twice as large. You then go to your print shop and have then scan full sized 11x17 sheets, and then scan and resize those twice as large and then print the final at 24x36 paper (that is why you call out the original scales of 1/8=1' to 1/4"=1' because that is what you have in the final printed product. You can create an orthographic overview and then select "Top View" under camera orientations and then send to your 11x17 layout at 1/8 scale and then annotate the scale as 1/4"=1' scale for resizing by 200% on 24x36 paper, Or upgrade to Chief Premier where paper size is not any kind of problem. DJP

Since Trusses, by Law must be designed by a State Licensed Structural Engineer in all 50 States, why bother? Software trusses are not legal (In Texas, I know for sure that the Architectural Board can fine you up to $5,000.00 for portraying them as "legal"). To answer your question, in Home Designer Pro they cannot be customized and are just preprogrammed to fill the space between the ceiling and the underside of roof planes. In Chief Premier they can be customised but at best are purely "Conceptual" or "Cosmetic". DJP