DavidJPotter

I was unfamiliar with the term "Cove Ceiling" so I "Googled" it to see what you are talking about ( I have heard this referred to as a coffered or Tray ceiling ). I would recommend that you as in image three, set the ceiling height in the room specification dialog, then draw a "room within your room" using "invisible railing walls" the outline of which is the intended "Cove or Tray Ceiling", the resulting "Island room" will be automatically connected to an "exterior wall". You then open the dialog box of your cove ceiling room and set its ceiling height higher than the ceiling height of the main room. There may be more to do to make it look as close as possible to what you intend but this will get you started. The attached image was done in my trial copy of Architectural 2020 and will work in the 2017 version and this method does NOT effect the auto roof builder tool DJP

Great and more proper choice offered by Eric than me, you can manually turn off the default "railings" on a landing by way of its dialog box per edge. DJP

If you can create a custom slab in Suite, that can easily then emulate the raised slab in your basement. The only problem with that is that the "Stair" objects are pre-programmed to seek out the actual "floor" of the basement and not your custom slab. I am not sure if you can, in Suite. manually set the stair bottom to rest on a custom slab (you will just have to look and see for yourself). I currently do not have Suite, Interiors or Essentials on my PC. DJP

In plan view and for each camera view (including the framing overview) EACH have their OWN "Display Options" dialog. While in a framing overview camera view, open "Tools - Display Options" dialog for that camera view and see if the missing objects (named alphabetically) are checked "on" or "off". DJP

This forum is for Home Designer software users (I know "Chief Architect" makes this software but in order to help you, like Eric said, we need to know what software title and version of that title you have. If you , in fact have "Chief Architect Premier or Interiors" software, the right forum for that is "Chief Talk" and not here. Your question is a simple one and is the same exact answer in all Chief Architect and Home Designer software. You read up on the "Dimension Tools" and their "Default Settings" and then all becomes clear. Here is a short YouTube video to show you: https://youtu.be/ZCuzzFXPpO0 (I am sorry I forgot to "turn on" my microphone for the video - No Sound) DJP

I tried my best to stay with "Auto Roofs" but no go, here is a YouTube video of what I did and why: (perhaps an Architectural or suite person can get it done without manual roof editing) https://youtu.be/Ovi4H46Xws4 Daily Ave.zip

I hate to say so but what you are seeing is the result of improper use of HD Pro and its tools. When properly used being careful to make good wall connections, correct settings of all kinds, including camera settings you then and only then get the results you need and want. Please share a copy of your current ".plan" file so others can look at your plan and its settings, only then might you start to obtain some useful advice. DJP

I am sorry Tiffany but I do not know what a "Roman Shade" is or looks like. You have already searched where I normally search for wanted things. You might consider creating one using Sketch Up if you are really intent on having one. DJP

Like a lot of things in software, especially doors they have pre-programmed restraints as part of their behavior. A pocket door MUST have enough room to allow its door to open and close in the wall where you place it. If it is a 'tight squeeze' you man not then be able to reverse its direction of track using the "Reverse Door Swing" tool in the "Edit Toolbar" which is what one commonly uses to reverse the travel of pocket doors. What I have done successfully in the past is to delete the existing pocket door and then select the "Door Tool - Pocket Door" and then left-click to one side or the other of where I want it to be until I get one there that is also opening the correct direction (sometimes takes a little patience in tight spaces) DJP

Attic walls (to be identified as such by the software) also need to be marked, by you manually as ""Attic Walls", "No Locate" and "No Room Define". When that is done, by you, they should then filll up the side-spaces you wish them to. Those check-boxes are to be found on each wall's "Wall Specification Dialog - General Tab", take a look please! DJP

Thanks Eric! I am glad to be WRONG! Never noticed that before. DJP

Eric, that is not true in Home Designer software, that only is true in Chief Premier and Interiors, sorry. At a guess, I would say images are on usually the "Images" layer or perhaps "CAD Default" but that is just my guess. DJP

The Layout is designed to display the "Edges" from your "Print Drivers" as a "Blue outline" while on layout. Anything inside that blue line will print and anything outside that line will not. SJP

I understand that setting materials for walls and other objects can be a little confusing: 1. As in the video above that was specific to what I thought she was asking for. 2. There are material settings also in "Edit - Default Settings - Materials - interior wall and exterior wall" 3. AS Eric showed, there are "Modes" for the "Material Eyedropper and Materials Painter" which each have specific functions. 4. Each object and wall has a "Specification Dialog - Materials Tab" to make individual changes or edits relative to Materials. So you see that it depends on the exact effect you wish to create and how far reaching you wish that effect to be and so on... Learn all the existing methods and use them wisely. DJP

Then be sure when you encounter an unfamiliar term or nomenclature that is not well understood and get it defined in the context that it is used while reading. English words for better or worse have multiple possible definitions (the word "of" for instance has 32 distinct definitions depending on its use in a sentence!). Software, Construction, Architecture all each have their own nomenclature that is specific, definition-wise so just be alert while listening or watching videos and get those terms sorted out as you encounter them. When studying, always after that, practice what you studied to make sure it was and is understood and then adds to your own competence. If you do not understand what is said, you will not be then able to display any competence. DJP

Keep in mind that this software was created by a smart person who was NOT a builder, Architect or Engineer. It is pre-programmed to be used by varied individuals of varied backgrounds. It is an ingenious but purely mechanical aide to help users graphically portray their Architectural desires. Think of the software as a "smart pen" that has to be learned in terms of its own nomenclature, programming and design (See your Reference Manual and Help files). Once you divine its controls it greatly helps you to graphically communicate your ideas to others and to Building Professionals. It must be learned and then practiced with. The results are your "Report Card" per unit of time. DJP

Looks great Eric!, Well done! I like your outcome better than mine DJP

This You Tube video should get you started ( I hope): https://youtu.be/erR9EaSh-us DJP

A"Widow's Walk" is basically a deck with railings around a tower or copula, that means that BEFORE you create roofs you need to have already drawn the Widows Walk and copula BEFORE then roofing them. This is a little difficult for most beginners but is doable. Just layout the spaces, name those spaces and establish ceiling heights, when you get the settings and room names right, then build roofs. DJP

Great! now as earlier suggested, add, manually your missing "Attic Walls" (you go to the "Attic <A> " level, turn on the "Reference Display" and then manually draw your walls that are missing on that level, place your windows and doors and VOILA! You have it all, and well done! DJP

Exactly correct, keep at it, please! DJP

You define 3 shed roofs in the walls that support those shed roofs and then keep building roofs making indicated changes until you get what you are after. If that does not work and you have tried everything you can reach, then upgrade to Home Designer Pro where, roof-wise anything is then possible once you learn how to use the new manual roof tools. DJP

The software does not "draw" anything, rather it is your skill and competence that will "draw" anything. There is nothing in that photo that Architectural is unable to draw, the only limitation is you and your persistence. DJP

Watch some of these Help Videos on Cabinets at the Home Designer website please: https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/search/?default_tab=video&amp;q=cabinets&amp;page=1 DJP

If you are referring to Remodeling projects I commonly use two plan files: 1. The existing structure or "As Built" which I use to display "Demo Walls" and other changes the remodeling project effects 2. The "Proposed" .plan file where this shows the changes and "New Walls" of a project This way you can clearly show what was and what will be graphically. I believe most Architectural software is used in this general fashion and most Permit Authorities require the two views to clearly communicate what is and what is planned. The as built, once finished is then "Saved - as" the "Proposed" where I then make changes and additions. If the client wants a new version, I save as the "Proposed" and call it "Proposed Version two" etc until they can say "That is exactly what my family and I want!" DJP