DavidJPotter

Create the garage foundation Manually. DJP

Post a copy of your plan please. DJP

Here is an example of a parapet roof version of your plan DJP new-parapet.plan

You have then slanted or shed roofs, using the same method all you need to do is to change the "pitch" settings to "zero inches" or perhaps 1/16" : 1' pitch to obtain flat roofs ("Flat" roofs are not actually perfectly flat, they are built to have a slight slant so when it rains, the roofs drain instead of "lake". Without more detailed information, I cannot advise more. After downloading and looking at your plan I now see that Suite has a limitation of 1/4" in 12 as a minimum pitch. I applied what I suggested to you above and got the roofs more flat looking. You may want to consider using a parapet roof system. You create a second floor that has no ceiling and set the "Ceiling Height" to the intended height of the parapet exterior walls. That way you can obtain the appearance of flat roofs (0.0 Degrees) and assume the roof system is slanted to the edges of the second floor parapet (similar to a Spanish colonial pueblo roof look). The missing attic walls that result can be manually drawn in at need. DJP

Select and then open the dialog box of the ramp and lower it bottom until it meets the surface of the terrain or raise the terrain using its dialog box to meet the ramp. Either method should work, it is just a matter of which method fits your situation. Open those dialog's and really see what is there and what it empowers you to do. DJP

You can "lock" layers but such locks are global, not selective by area or room. Even Chief Premier cannot do as you ask unless (can only be done in Chief Premier) create custom layers and then lock those. That cannot be done at all in any Home Designer software title. (Chief Premier costs about 3K compared to HD Pro at just under 500 dollars) DJP

Under Materials List tools in HD Pro you can selectively select a materials list from a "Room" (a space enclosed by walls) or all floors (which would include the as built as well) or for an "Area" by using that tool to draw a poly-line around just the area you wish to measure for a materials list. DJP

Yes, on remodel projects, I commonly model the existing home and call it "As Built" and then save-as a copy of that and name it "Version One" or some such. Then to the copy of the as-built I add the additions. An important note on the "Materials List" tool, it is programmed to measure how perfectly you 3D modeled the structure and is as accurate as YOU can exactly 3D model the structure and not an iota more (Most new users do not bother to learn the software well enough to do that). I am just trying to be realistic relative to a professional grade materials list using this software. I do NOT recommend any Home designer software except Home Designer Pro because it contains the most choices and the least barriers to getting it right. But again, the bottom line will be determined not by the software but by your willingness to thoroughly learn the software BEFORE using it for production work. It is your choice to make, the software is an intricate tool but will NOT do it for you without your competence being present. For remodels you would use the Polyline Materials List tool and draw the closed polyline around only the addition. DJP

The new size limitations do NOT apply to your physical printer. If your printer largest size is letter or legal, then all you can print to paper are those sizes. What print size refers to is the limitation of size Home Designer software can print to, THAT limitation has been removed. It does not mean that it magically causes your small format printer the ability to print like an Architectural Plotter. It means that printing to PDF and other print file formats that can be read by Architectural Plotter machines has been removed in Home Designer. This in no way alters the abilities of the physical printer you may have in your home or office. The limitation is removed from the software itself. DJP

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The size limitation was removed for all Home Designer titles for 2021 per the Home Designer Website, take a look please. DJP

Number zero: Set the room dialog boxes-Structure Tabs to the style of floor and ceiling framing you desire. Number one: Set all values to what you intend to use on the project in "Edit - Default Settings - Framing (all categories and floors) #2: Order that framing be built (Walls, Roofs, ceilings and floors) #3: check the results for correctness and then manually edit what is not found to be correct. You can view the results using a "Framing Overview camera or in plan view turn on the framing layers that you wish to see so you can evaluate and edit them as you see fit. DJP

I knew you would figure it out pronto, thanks! DJP

Several rooms had improper settings for vaulted ceiling rooms, which when corrected allowed the software to file in missing attic walls. On the problem with the gaps in the interior wall, I found nothing that Suite is capable of fixing (I easily repaired the wall poly-line using Premier but Suite does not have that ability, HD Pro does but no other HD titles) .Perhaps someone (like Jo_Ann) can take a look and come up with a workable solution using Suite alone. DJP Current State closer v2.plan

Without being able to open and inspect a copy of your plan, nothing but guesses could then be made, Please post a copy of your plan so actual help can occur please. DJP

I have been a user-teacher since the mid 90's and this is usually caused by an out of date software driver for your video card and or your video card may be too weak to support Home Designer software. First make sure you have the latest software drivers for your video card and then if no joy, take a look at upgrading the card to something more modern. I am not, never have been a Mac user so other suggestions may be coming from other users who do. DJP

First, once you have enclosed a space you give it a "NAME" so if you want a "Deck" name the space "Deck" and you will then get one, only the deck name gets you a deck. DJP

I am guessing that Jo_Ann is doing something you are NOT: mainly using "Temporary Walls" to help guide the software to a desired result. You temporarily get rid of any interior walls (rooms) that are misleading the roof generator and use only those walls and enclosed spaces that can lead the roof generator to your desired result. Once the roofs are correct you NEVER THEREAFTER use Auto build roofs and when roofs are correct you can then replace all interior walls as you wish. DJP

When I suggest "Confronting" I mean: "Confronting is defined as being able to face. When we say one is confronting, we mean that he is facing without flinching or avoiding. The ability to confront is actually the ability to be there comfortably and perceive." How is that useful in the use of Chief? I have observed within myself and other users that Specification Dialog's are are often just "OK'ed" without actually confronting what is on the dialog before clicking "OK". Then one is upset with the results because you overlooked the settings presented by the dialog. Another instance of this is not confronting each and every dialog in Chief before using it, including all of that dialog's tabs. I still make this a process I go through ever so often to just look carefully-study-confront each and every dialog box and drop-down menu in the software. I learn or relearn many things just doing this action as a refresher (so many things to remember, ya know?) When things go wrong, the first thing I do is to inspect room dialog box settings, default settings until I find THE setting that is causing the problem (nobody is perfect, all are Human, we miss things etc.) Take the time to carefully LOOK and FIND. Persistence comes in to persevere long enough to FIND and edit what is found to be wrong.. When all else fails, I, just like anyone else, calls Tech Support and way too often they kindly point out that I did not LOOK, effectively enough in many cases. it is a competence thing and a personal Ethics thing, I recommend you start developing a talent for that method. DJP

I do not know how, exactly he did that example but in Pro you could manually create some framing to emulate a wall,section then using resized soffits (cabinet tools) and assigned the appropriate materials emulate that view for a detail. You could also use custom slaps to emulate the insulation layers also. DJP

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The exposed rafters are due to you having ordered the software to build framing when the plan is still needing adjustments. You should only build framing when you have the 3d model perfect (it needs some tweaking and cleaning up). Where the rafters are currently exposed, is due to the way your room over the garage was 3D modeled. to cover up and make smooth the ceiling you can using "Ceiling Planes" to smooth out that ceiling and for camera, views turn off "Framing, Roof Rafters" layers so they do not clutter up your interior views. The dormer needs a little tweaking and adjusting to close its gaps in the ceiling as well. Otherwise a good job on what you have done so far! I noticed in a couple of places that roof planes were mislocated (their fascias did not match in height) DJP

See if any of these tutorials and articles on the Home Designer Website, please. DJP

No one in the USA can legally draw-design trusses except State Licensed Structural Engineers anyways. Anything you create yourself is PURELY conceptual only. In order to obtain a perfectly accurate materials List your model must be a perfect duplicate of how the intended house is to be built, the materials list only compiles exactly how you 3D modeled the structure and to the degree that it does not match the intended real structure will be how "accurate" it turns out to be. Few new users have developed the skill to accomplish this and actually few veteran users either because most users use Home Designer and Chief Premier to create plan sets only. Professional take off specialists often use Chief for raw data and then use a dedicated third party program to develop professional grade take off estimates. You are free to do as you wish but software is not a substitute for practical knowledge of the Building Arts, DJP