DavidJPotter

https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/search/?q=log+cabin&default_tab=support Try this link above. DJP

What I do when working on newer users plan files is to First: check "Edit - Default Settings - Floor - Structure Tab - Finished Ceiling Height". This is the most important default settings in terms of "Ceiling Height" per floor. Then check each "Room Specification Dialog - Structure Tab - Finished Ceiling Height" input box to make sure "Use Default" is checked. Only then can one then be certain that this is properly and workably programmed. If roofs have been built before doing this roof planes should then be rebuilt or edited to make sure they are created at the proper plate height (determined by the "Finished Ceiling" inputs in Defaults and per Room Dialog Box - Structure Tab as above). When these settings are chaotic then so is the resultant plan file model. DJP

In such cases you may need to make a copy of the intended material with a slightly new name and then alter the direction of the material using the "Tri Color" tool (Adjust Material Definition). If you have two or more copies of the same material in a plan file, the names must be different and each instance can then be rotated, direction wise however you like, they just cannot have the same exact name. Yes and that was the solution I came up with. DJP

Enclose the under stairs area with framable walls. DJP

How do you want the greenhouse constructed? Standard wood frame-windows and roof similar to the cabin or do you intend to have a firm build it of metal and glass? Two different approaches to use. Which? DJP

This is a weak point in the software. What I have done in the past to emulate such a condition is to make a cabinet about 3-4 inches thick to look like the 45% angle front, fill in the back with another cabinet a few inches thick to emulate the back. Then cover the thing with a custom counter top. It is the best that can be currently done in terms of appearances. It is easier if the cabinets so configured are backed by a half wall so a second or back cabinet is not required where the half wall supports an elevated bar top. DJP

In Eric's example the part shown that has no floor is programmed to be "Open Below", the part that has a floor is not as seen from the second floor plan view there are two enclosed spaces. Eric also set the second floor ceiling to just a few feet (ceiling heights determine where the roof planes will bare when built. DJP

The thing about posting for help is that you are immersed in your project and its problems and shortfalls, those who might want to help are not. So as Eric suggested post a copy of your plan and enough explanatory data to convey with a certain exactitude exactly what your problem or problems are. Do not assume that anyone else knows at a glance what you are talking about. Be concise and keep it simple. DJP

I would not call this gable a "dormer", what I have always called it is a "Dutch or Texas Gable". Years ago I did a video tutorial on how this is created in Pro and in Premier (the exact same methods and tools are used in both cases). : DJP

If you want a wall type to be set a particular way as your "Default" you must define that wall type by way of "Wall Types - Define Wall Type - Exterior Layer material setting" in "Edit - Default Settings - Walls - Exterior Wall". Using that method will then get you a universal change of that chosen default wall type when used. You use the "Material Tab - Exterior Material" to change only a single wall instance. I believe what you mentioned above is in "Edit - Default Settings - Materials - Exterior Wall" which sets how walls auto-generated by the software as attic walls are assigned and is NOT a global default for all exterior walls. I am sorry that this can be rather confusing to newer users (several apparent "Default" settings for an apparent single object). What is what is fully explained in your free "Reference Manual" by subject (found under the "Help" menu - read Reference Manual"). It requires some study of the Reference Manual and then some practice to prove your understanding of what was studied but is the make-break of competence with this stuff. DJP

This is the sort of work I often do each week for users of Home Designer and Chief Premier software. I am available for live, one on one help services on Mondays, Sundays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 10 AM to 7 PM CDT. Contact me directly for an appointment. DJP

The plan opens perfectly in X5 (not X1 as you stated), It opens in Architectural 2018 but only in view mode (no printing or editing allowed, sorry). If you still have the installation discs for X5, you can still use them to run X5, the only limitation will be access to later library files that do not come with the installation discs. DJP

I agree with D. Cortes in that you have given so little information it is hard to give useful advice in exchange for your asking for help. The rest of us just print to PDF without incident so there is probably something YOU are doing that is the problem since the process is simple and straightforward. What paper size are you printing to? Did you make sure that your .layout file is properly size formatted to mirror your orientation and paper size? Are you printing to color or black and white? etc. etc. What software title and version are you currently using? DJP

Only Home Designer Pro has the ability to create 2D and 3D trusses, no other HD titles have this ability. What do you have? Commonly truss objects are ONLY designed by Structural Engineers legally speaking. Drawing virtual trusses is quite a bit different from legal real-world ones that actually get used in the field. DJP

Like Eric has suggested you can turn any visible objects on and off at your choice. I personally never use auto interior dimensions because it is information overload by default. I use auto exterior dimensions for certain printed plan views and past that I use manual dimensions. When you print to scale the need for printed dimensions is less important. There are certain dimension points that are more important than some others. You need to think of Architectural Plans as visual, graphic communication and as such they should clearly communicate per view what is intended to be understood by others. Too much communication is no communication. DJP

In order to "have" a second floor over a garage or elsewhere, you first must order a second floor to be created. Since the new room is going to be over an existing garage I would recommend creating a "Blank" second floor, turn on the "Reference Floor Display" manually draw the exterior walls of the intended room on the second floor. Decide where you want the stair access to be to this room and then design the interior spaces of the intended room, then build roof planes after setting up the intended roof presettings after having studied how to do this by way of the "Build Roof Dialog - Roof Styles Tab". DJP

"Edit - Default Settings - Camera Defaults - Reflections check box", it is off by default but there you can turn that feature On or Off. DJP

Flipping objects cannot be done in Home Designer titles. It can be done in Chief Premier. An alternate solution would be to make your glass fill in Sketch Up and then import into whatever you have. (You really should do as Eric requests and let us know what software you have and use), it makes a big difference as to useful answers you get. DJP

Read your post and looked at your PDF files but I still am not sure what it is that you are asking. DJP

I create a camera view and then place my cabinets along a wall. then copy-paste a wall cabinet, resize it and using the "CTRL" key or Control Key to assist me in moving-resizing the upper cabinet where I need it to go. Takes some practice to get agile with this kind of thing. DJP

Without seeing photos of your existing home it is difficult to understand your specific problems just from the verbiage above. It is a fact that any software title other than Home Designer Pro with its manual controls over roof planes tends to be problematic in terms of anything other than simple roof designs. Starting with the tutorials found in the "Build Roof" dialog "Roof Styles Tab" one can accomplish a lot with Architectural once its limitations are well understood by the end user. Please post some photos of your home as it is and a copy of your .plan file so others may then be able to guide you to a solution if it is possible within the abilities of Architectural to do. DJP

Topographical data is, no matter its source, a set of relative change of the terrain plane surfaces to the "Floor zero" of the model's (.plan file) first floor, so no matter the source of such data its input into the terrain plane as relative rate or value of change within the organization of a terrain plane object is then created. The scale of virtual objects within a .plan file are "real world" in scale (1' = 1') but relative heights are set to the virtual model's orientation and dimensions. In other words it is not "Sea Level" one uses (topo data is usually set relative to "Sea Level" whereas a virtual model has no "Sea Level" from which to use as a organization point). Terrain plane as a feature was added to this software several years after Version One was released and so it is treated as an "add on" feature. That is the reason it should be thought of as correct to itself as to relative heights but set in terms of virtual height to the .plan file structure or structures. The terrain plane is created either flat or not and then set to the virtual model's structure first floor (see "Building Pad" input box in the Terrain Specification Dialog). I have never successfully created a correctly parsed terrain plane using direct imports of GPS data (any source) to date. The reason being limitations of most PC hardware to create useful camera views of such terrain objects due to their over complication using such import methods. Doing so of course can be done just as advertised by Chief Inc. What they do not tell you is that such an object using raw data designed for super computers often overwhelms the ability of the average PC's ability to display, moment to moment such complex constructs (too many 3D faces to locate per second in X, y and Z coordinates within the software). What I do is to import an image or scan of a topo map and then manually trace over the topo lines of the image or scan using "Elevation objects: lines, splines and regions" so I can control the number of 3D faces of the terrain plane object. You get better, quicker results this way and the result is also easier upon one's PC or Mac hardware resources. DJP

I have used this software in one form or another since the middle ninetys and have never seen such a display. My guess would be a deficient video card or video support but to be sure you should contact Chief Architect Tech Support for certain answers please. DJP

Not many of us here use a Mac, so your best bet for useful, informed help in this case will be Chief Architect Tech Support M-F Pacific Office Hours. DJP

I have no idea what "EURF89" coordinates system is or why I might care to know please? DJP