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Did this one this morning. And this one for a thread on ChiefTalk sometime last year. Combine the 2 with a bit more work and you should be able to do what you need. I'd create a small room with a floor raised to the bottom of the columns. You might choose Balcony as the room type. The 3 outside walls would be a Pony Wall with the bottom part (where the columns are) as a room divider. Fill in below the columns with a soffit. The arch is created with a Pass-Through, placed in a camera view.

Just did this one as a demo. Check again on your walls.

Posting the pictures here is easiest for us. Choose More Reply Options, Choose your image, Attach This File. As for your question, set the 2 end walls to Full Gable.

The automatic bay tools are rather limiting. Suggest you draw your own. Are you able to change other parts of the roof to metal?

I don't think you can. Pro tends to produce "representative" instead of "actual". I note that on the plans with a link to a detail I have created manually. It's like trusses. I draw in trusses, but they are not supposed to represent the actual truss. Rather to act as a visual cue to say trusses will be used.

Have you seen Creating a Cross Section Detail in Home Designer Pro https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00439/creating-a-cross-section-detail-in-home-designer-pro.html I don't think you can automatically do what you want. You can place the slab at the top of the stem wall. Is the detail shown above taken direct from a plan, or is it a purpose drawn detail?

If you are drafting and producing construction documents for a living, I recommend you consider Chief Premier. Pro is a good tool, but it's quite limited in some areas. Premier gives you the tools and flexibility do do most anything, with, as David would say, a good bit of study.

No new layers. Is there a real need to show outlet wiring? I would only show switched outlets.

Set your floor structure to 0 (zero).

The space (rooms) above are likely set to a slab. Change the floor structure to something more appropriate. You should then have drywall on the ceiling. You may also need to make the basement walls higher to compensate for the increased thickness of the floor structure above.

There is a button on the Edit Toolbar to reverse a wall. The software often does this. Garage floors are normally lower than the house floor for safety. You can change it in the Room Specification dialog.

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Not David, but I believe covering the value with a different one is the only way. The program is designed to show dimensions the model produces.

Define "slant".

You can also set the wall above as No Room Def instead of deleting it, then change it back.

See image. I see no garage.

I just tried it as I rarely do foundations. By setting all space except the area over the basement as a slab, and specifying the correct height for your basement walls in the Build Foundation dialog, you should get what you are after.

Will the house be on a slab, except for that one area?

Are the files on your system in the directory specified?

As a Texan (escaped from Houston at 18) for the first 39 years of my life, I think the only time I heard winders instead of windows was on Hee Haw.

No mulling of windows in the Home Designer products.

What specifically are you having a problem with?

Stacked washer dryer and water heater added, along with entry closet.

That's the plus for using auto build -- the program will make it correct. Another way of doing attic walls is to delete the roof and then rebuild. Building the roof puts the attic walls in place. If in doubt, work in a copy of the plan.

Is there anything special about your foundation? In your location, slab on grade is standard. Once the house walls are correct, just rebuild the foundation so it matches.