solver

Google "craftsman homes" -- lots of info.

Could you describe what you are looking for? You might try the 3D Warehouse.

Good luck Post an accurate plan as Mick suggested, along with some side views of that front gable. It's important to have a good understanding of exactly what you are trying to model. You will need to coerce the program into building the roof and details will matter.

Pictures show up fine now. "I can't seem to make the pitch 6/12 on the reverse gable" What are you calling a "reverse gable"?

Building with a 2x4 wall gives you an additional 10 sq ft over a 2x6 wall in a 16x16 house. Make it a rectangle and the difference is greater because of the additional wall needed. From Building Green - How Much Insulation Is Enough? For example, if you install R-19 fiberglass batts in 2x6 frame walls, with the studs 16 inches on-center, double top-plates, and other elements of "standard" framing, the actual R-value of the whole wall with the R-19 insulation will be about R-15. The whole-wall R-value is lower because of "thermal bridging" through the wood framing. How will you use the house? If this is an occasional weekend getaway, then maybe standard insulation practices are good enough. Insulation is expensive and it would be easy to over insulate where the additional cost of insulation would never pay for itself. Air sealing is as important as insulation, and a well detailed, well sealed house will perform like it is better insulated. In your climate (Climate Zone 3) I would build the wall like this. Typically referred to as a rain screen wall. The exterior foam eliminates thermal bridging and adds insulation. The furring strips space the siding away from the structure and create a vented channel for moisture to escape. From the inside out. Drywall 2x4 studs with cavity insulation Sheathing Rigid Foam House Wrap Vertical Furring Strips Siding See Building Science Corp and Green Building Advisor for lots more info. I mentioned REMOTE and PERSIST earlier. Both are used mostly in Alaska and Canada, although they perform well in warmer climates too. Expensive because they both depend on thick exterior rigid foam for insulation.

How is the porch supposed to connect to the main roof? Are you modeling this house?

Arizona has a diverse climate, from Sahara like deserts, to thick green forest. Where I live, AC is optional, but heat is mandatory. Winter in my Arizona -- that's about 20" on the ground. This area burned in 2000, or you would be looking at a pine forest. Lets look at your gambrel roof. Push the roof sides out so they are vertical, add top plates, extend the rafters. You now have a conventional second floor space with a small increase in cost for the additional framing. Unless you like the look of the gambrel roof, I still don't see it as a way to save money, or to get a better structure. I just like the look of exposed framing. I'd build a timber framed house, if they were not so expensive. When I do build, I want to incorporate some exposed framing, just for the look. Screen capture from an episode of Home Again by Bob Vila, showing the idea. Will continue with insulation later.

Explain a bit about what you are trying to do. With Pro, I have Edit>Edit Area>Edit Area (All floors). Do you?

Post a picture of what you are trying to model. One large enough for us to see.

The 3rd and 4th image will not load. I can see the thumbnail but not the larger image, and need to see it to help.

It depends on how accurately you wish to depict a cushion. You can create the shape with a Custom Countertop, and apply a molding to the edge to create a rounded profile. Follow up with an application of fabric.

256 sq ft down. Bit less up. Easy to build shed roof.

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I think I tried every room type but deck! Good find Jo Ann.

I've tried multiple ways to fix without success. Including deleting most of the floor and redrawing. As soon as the rooms are back in place, the brick is back. I'd send this to tech support. No matter how it got there, you should be able to reset the floor structure to the default.

You might want to tell us which rooms are wrong Your master bedroom has a 4" Red Brick floor, as does the master bath. Is this correct? I reset the odd rooms to the default without issue.

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Change the Interior Wall Surface for the wall to be whatever color you want. And yes, a custom backsplash would also work. Set it to 1/32" thick and choose the paint color as a material.

More details please. Could you post the plan file, or images of the room structure dialog? 4" is a standard concrete slab. Is this checked somewhere?

Still does not show for me. You do have a railing that is causing the wall problem between the master tub and shower. Pull the 3 walls back and you wil be able to see and delete the railing.

Not there when I view the plan. Can you select it? If so, it will show in the status bar what it is.

If this structure will be permitted, I would be discussing my ideas with the local code enforcement people. Finding out about stairs, room ceiling heights etc. For showing the stairs in plan, and camera views, consider using a ladder. You will need to source one made in Sketchup, since bonus catalogs are not available for your version. You have mentioned several times about wanting a well insulated structure, which prompted my suggestion of a foam outer layer. This is standard practice in many areas. You may google "balloon framing" and see images of how it's usually done. I think you are over thinking/over engineering the structure. No need to reinvent standard practice. Update us with your latest floor plan -- it's always interesting to see others ideas.

Why not build a second floor using standard wall framing? Easy to place windows on any wall. Use all the floor space. I've never understood the gambrel roof form on small spaces. Roofing is more expensive than siding. 2x6 floor joist need mid span support. Balloon framed walls generally use a let in ledger to support the end of the joist, not sistered studs. Wood is a poor insulator, and filling your wall cavities with additional wood will not help with insulation. I'll suggest again a 2x4 wall with rigid foam on the exterior. This almost completely eliminates thermal bridging, and gives you a few more inches on the interior.

You could run XP in virtual mode -- essentially XP running within Windows 7,8 or 10. You could dual boot. Have both operating systems installed and choose one at system startup.

http://www.amazon.com/Chief-Architect-Home-Designer-Download/dp/B0044DE8K2/ref=sr_1_26?ie=UTF8&qid=1439408455&sr=8-26&keywords=Chief+Architect