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About PamelaC

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  1. WOW! What great ideas!! Thank you all so much for taking the time to look at my plan. The hallway past the master closets in 3'6". The house we live in now has a 3' hallway which works fine, but we went a little wider. Do you think 3'6 is too narrow? If you are referring to the very narrow passageway between the laundry room and the master bath, that is what I call a horizontal laundry chute. It wil allow me to push the hampers directly into the laundry room. I'll be putting a conveyor roller in there.
  2. Just getting the hang of uploading files. I uploaded the one for my house on the other thread, and I am going to wait and see how that comes through before I send my Mom's. Thanks very much for the offer. I have both Suite and Pro 14, and files created in Pro seem to be read only in Suite as far as I have been able.
  3. I had some trouble sending because of size. I zipped the pan file only. Let me know if you need the associated files. Thanks so much for taking a look!
  4. This one is MY home that I hope to build next year. I welcome ANY comments or criticism, but my main area of concern is the master suite/rear porch ROOF. I hate it. I have tried many options but can't find anything I like: Limitations: Rear porch roof pitch must stay low to clear bedroom windows upstairs (They are egress windows so can't be raised.) . A little background: We went with a 1 1/2 story design because of height limitations, a full 2 story is not an option and we don't need the extra room (We actually have TOO MUCH space upstairs). Upstairs is for teenagers soon to lea
  5. Here is the file if anyone wants to take a look. Any comments/critiques are appreciated. The design is all hers, I just drew it for her. I'm not crazy about the floorplan myself.
  6. I have just completed drawings for my mother using Home Designer Pro 2014. She has Home Designer Suite 2014. She can view the drawings in Suite but can't modify. Home Designer Pro does not have the ability to back convert. I have learned that a user with full Chief Architect (not Home designer) can convert the file to Suite version, but that user also must be using the 2014 version. Can anyone do this for me? Also, I realize I may lose custom features that were placed using Pro, but I am not worried about that. She just wants to work with furniture, cabinetry, etc.
  7. I am trying to export a plan created in Home Designer Pro 2014 to a .dxf file for my engineer to work with. I am importing the .dxf into both Autocad 2015 and Autosketch 9 (2004). I am having difficulty with the text elements and dimensions. I set CA to use the font "City Blueprint" for ALL text styles, because I heard it was the most widely compatible, but it is not coming through properly in the .dxf. The room names appear in City Bluprint but they are larger and more spread out. The dimensions appear on the dxf in a smaller "Txt" font aslo have arrow ends rather than slash ends..
  8. Thank you David. I had watched numerous of videos looking for an answer, but somehow missed it. The solution is right there in the "Manual Dimensions" video you linked at 2:22, apparently, you grab the main "diamond" that is below the dimension line to the new point to create a new locate!!!
  9. "Both" is not an option in Pro 2014. I am having some success by selecting "rough" then "borrowing" the extra locates to slide elsewhere, BUT, after tweaking all my dimensions I decided to change the front door to a different style. The dimensions deleted with the old door, and to get the new door added to that dimension line I have to do "autoexterior dimensions" again, which destroys all my tweaks and I have to start all over again. I can draw a NEW dimension from the new door to one other object manually, but there seems to be no way to incorporate the door into an existing dimension
  10. Thanks Kbird. I prefer sides too, Not sure why they do it this way but its on every set of plans I see. Somebody told me it is because rough openings vary between window manufacturers,.....but so do doors. Somebody else told me it has to do with shearwall and other wind related calculations, but windows matter there too. Who knows. I have considered making a separate "framing" set of drawings, simplified with out all the fluff, and using sides for all rough openings. Do you think framers would welcome that, or consider it confusing, or maybe even insulting?
  11. Using Pro 2014 The auto exterior dimensions do a pretty good job, but sometimes I need to adjust. I have figured out how to move the dimension to a locate a different point by dragging the diamond. I have figured out how to delete an unwanted point by dragging the diamond to the neighboring point. What I can't seem to do is ADD another point that I need located on the dimension line. Example: I need to locate the CENTERS of window openings, but the SIDES of door openings. (customary in my area). Defaults requires me to choose one method or the other, so I choose SIDES then ad
  12. Is this possible in Pro 2014? For example, I have several vehicles on my plan which came from the library. Some of them are "Fixtures" layer and others appear on "Furniture Outdoor" layer.
  13. Forgot to mention, I am using Pro 2014. Below is a simpler example if anyone would like to give it a try. In this case, it differs depending on the relative proportions of roof sizes. I have tricked it into working before by playing with relative widths and temporarily raising/lowering planes, etc, but doing that is getting old.
  14. This is a frequent problem for me. The second photo shows the correct condition, The roof over the 3 windows is 8:12, and the porch roof is 1:12. The first pic shows the problem...when roofs are regenerated, the proximity of the 1:12 roof seems to force the 8:12 roof to flatten out and become coplanar with the 1:12. What causes this? I realize I can fix this with manual roof planes, but this plan has several similar conditions and with frequent revisions, I've had to draw roof planes over and over again. I would really like to find a way to address this problem with autoroof tools.