solver

This one shows a raised roof/ceiling over the living/kitchen area. Allows for taller windows to take in the view. Also bumped the wall out a bit just for looks. The columns are the Stacked Column from the library. Research Airplane Bungalow if you are interested in a small 2nd floor. These were often used for sleeping in the summer. Also suggest increasing the width of your halls to at least 42". This will make movement much more comfortable, and allow for wheelchair access if it's ever needed.

Walls typically have a doubled top plate, so for a 2' wall, you need 2' for the bottom plate and 2' each for the 2 top plates, for a total of 6'.

A quick cleanup of the plan gives this for the 2 large buildings. Roof is auto built.

What is the roof supposed to look like? Kat posted a picture in post #2. That looks like a manually drawn roof plane with the raised wall under it. If it is, you just need to lower the roof plane.

Google will answer your question about AFAIK. AFAIK = As Far As I Know If you have the plan on paper, you already have much of the work done. Draw it with Pro, and you get the 3D automatically.

Have you studied the Help system search results for Rounding?

Try drawing a new plan. Hovering over a dimension will change the pointer if it's a dimension associated with something you clicked on. I'm not sure about the dimension changing color -- it does not work that way here and we are using the same software.

Few more.

I wanted a profile to do the copper roof in the Brick/Stone window/door casing thread. I did a few of these when I had Chief, like a sill for a deeply recessed window, but was thinking I had done it in Pro.

Click on the wall, then click on the dimension you want to change. Watching some video will make things like this clear.

Thanks Elovia. That's what I get from using CA for a month -- confusion.

I like the proportions of the siding better on this one, and have added stone at the base.

Can you create a new molding profile in Pro? Searching Help and the Knowledge Base does not provide an answer that I could find. Can you modify a profile from the Library? Can you turn an object -- specifically a custom counter top with applied molding, upside down (to get the molding in the correct orientation)?

Here is an idea for the copper roof -- yes, it's upside down, but that can be fixed. This is a custom counter top with a molding applied, covered with a standing seam roof and painted copper. Consider using the same idea for the sill, if applying a molding profile to a standard sill does not work. The one in your picture looks curved -- is yours?

I'd also suggest watching the Home Designer videos on YouTube before working on the tutorial. Many are specific to Home Designer, but the Chief Premier ones are worth watching as well eventually, as Pro is a subset of Premier. Also check out the Knowledge Base (before asking here please ) when you need help.

And, you can add and remove dimension locations from a dimension line. If you don't want it split into 2 parts -- remove one.

And, if you create your interior dimension in the upper part of that space, you should get a single number, not the split dimension that results when you draw the dimension line closer to the lower part of that space. The software is being "smart". Just clicking on that wall will give you temporary dimensions which can be used to move the wall too.

By "vertical wall" I'm guessing you are referring to the wall to the right of the 6' 5" dimension. I can select that wall and drag it, or move it with the dimension. Why can't you move it with the dimension? -- what happens?

Posting the plan file (xxx.plan) will likely help someone provide a better answer.

Settings should be the default. Then Final View with Shadows.

My builder buddy reports a 35% difference between cost to build and selling price on one specific house. House was a simple build -- open, level lot, a rectangle except for a small bumpout for the eating area and 2 car garage that protrudes from the front. Selling price was $385,000 for just over 2500 sq ft. Not sure any of this is relevant at this was in Colorado.

What matters is not what you estimate, but what the builder charges. What are other homes selling for in the area? Do you really need 2600 sq ft in a retirement home? A builder friend is just finishing a spec build of about the same size and price. I'll run your numbers by him and report back.

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Practice -- been building instead of drawing. I wanted to play with the trim sizes like you, but not in Pro

I pushed the left side of the house back a bit to increase the size of the front porch. My first thought when looking at the plan would be to swap the kitchen/nook and family room. Family room gains windows on 2 sides. Bedrooms will need egress windows, so I enlarged the one facing the front. Added a 3rd window left of the front door just for looks. Lowered the roof pitch to 4/12. lot C.plan