solver

Use a Room Divider wall drawn parallel to, and positioned whatever distance is required from the wall you do not want to connect to. The butting wall will snap to the Room Divider. You may shorten the Room Divider wall so it does not show in the plan.

I forgot to add, you cannot lock a wall. Others have asked the same question. With an understanding and proper use of the dimension tool, it's not needed.

Another suggestion -- looks like you are using the default exterior wall type. Not what I would expect in a 130 year old structure. Consider defining a new wall type, or types, that accurately reflect the construction, and especially the thickness of the existing walls, both inside and out. Much easier to do this now, rather than after all are in place.

It would make it easier for us (me) if you would add some text notes to the plan making specifics easy to locate. I believe this image shows what you want to do. I changed the 6' wall to 4', and the 7' wall remained the same. You should see how I did it. I made the 6' wall shorter, by selecting and moving the wall connected to it. I believe users often want to directly change the length of a specific wall, instead of using that same dimension to move another wall into its correct location. No. Display Options is just what it says. It turns the display of layers on and off. It does not turn settings or features on or off. That's not really needed. Just draw a basic shape, start in one corner and work your way around the house correcting the dimensions as you go. Temporary Dimensions will work like this too, where you directly edit the wall length. Here is a video showing a way of entering dimensions as you go. It's for Chief, but I believe Pro has the same tools.

Add your walls to your template plan (profile.plan is the default template). They will then be available in plans created from that template.

Edit>Delete Objects Select all Floors, and Dimensions. This will delete them and turn off the auto rebuilding of them. By "mess", I was referring to the visual. Sometimes you cannot see the plan itself because of all the auto generated dimensions. The program does not "auto-adjust" walls -- that's user error. Just use Temporary Dimensions. Don't use any automatic dimensions, and only place your own dimensions as needed, then delete them when no longer needed. Use the Interior Dimension tool, for example, but then delete that dimension. Temporary Dimensions only show when other dimensions are not available Pro has good enough dimension tools. Read up on them, practice a bit to see what they do, then use as needed. Make sure you setup your dimension defaults. I set mine to Wall Surface, for example, because that's normally how an existing house is measured, and when working on new construction, I want to know the surface to surface dimension, not framing to framing.

ChiefWonzayear -- You need to contact Chief Architect Technical Support. This is a user to user forum.

Make that room Open Below, or a Slab or Porch. You might need to remove the floor, or set it to a material like Opening/No Material.

Fix the pitch -- you have it at 120". Uncheck Ignore Top Floor.

Post pictures and/or plan.

Yours on the left. Center one is 2 cabinets that overlap where they join. Far right is a single cabinet. From standard cabinet, remove all parts, leaving just the back, sides and top. Split vertically, and set size of one side. Add back components, and adjust size.

X9 is in Beta now, and they usually have discounts for upgrades, including from Pro, just before the newest version is released, which should be next month. I'd contact sales to get the particulars. The Chief forum is ChiefTalk.

Here is a simple example. Various columns, made quickly and easily in Chief. And

I can't offer suggestions as to why, but just insert a doorway in the railing. That's what the software does automatically.

Pro and Premier work the same, and I assume they are derived from the same codebase. Premier has additional tools that make many things easier, and allow you to do some things that are impossible in the Home Designer products. Premier is really for Architects or others where it's used as a tool in their business. There are plenty of threads on ChiefTalk from former and sometimes concurrent AutoCAD users, mostly saying how much better Chief is for residential, but wishing it showed the maturity of AutoCAD. Although I use the software for my business, it's mostly an expensive toy, as I could get by with Pro. They do offer a month to month rental of Chief, and if you continue paying, you will own it. You may also resell Chief, transferring the license to someone else. They also offer a free trial, so you may see for yourself.

Auto built. You can see the ridge in the center of the upper roof.

It sounds like you are familiar with the manual roof tools. The baseline of the shed roof needs to be over the rear wall -- that is 90 degrees from where it is in the first plan you posted. Does that make sense? Thinking about the plan first posted here, select the shed part of the roof and rotate it 90 degrees, then review it in a camera view. Delete it and manually draw it starting over the rear wall. Don't take this as a jab at you, but this seems so obvious to me. Draw a roof plane that slopes in the wrong direction, delete it and draw it 90 or 180 degrees from the first try. I assume the problem is more than it is. To auto build, all the walls need to have the correct directive, and rooms need to have the correct room height. You were on the right track, just needed to add for example, High Shed/Gable to the front porch wall, and to raise the ceiling on the porch. The issue with doing this automatically is the upper roof. Because the common wall will be set to High Shed/Gable, the upper roof will build incorrectly. If I were doing this roof, I would auto build the roof so the upper roof is correct, turn off auto rebuild roofs, delete and draw manually the lower roof.

David and myself are not trying to be difficult, simply trying to point you in the correct direction so you may learn for yourself. We don't know how much time and effort you have spent on this problem, because you did not say. You have yet to tell us if you are doing these roof planes manually or automatically, clearly something that makes a difference in helping you. Have you tried starting a new plan, building a 1 room rectangular structure and putting a roof on it? That's generally how I learn, by breaking a problem down to its basics and then applying what I have learned to the larger problem.

You have not said if you are drawing these roofs yourself, or trying to auto build. Help has clear instructions on building a shed roof.

Use a Slab instead.

Read up on Shed roofs. You should be able to auto build it, but drawing one manually is really easy too. For the higher roof, what you have now is a low slope hip -- is that what you want? In in any case, you will need to manually pull the roof planes back from the parapet walls. Search the Knowledge Base and this forum for parapet walls.

1) It would help to state what is wrong with what you have now. I'm guessing the lower roof slopes in the wrong direction? 2) This would be a very easy roof to do manually, if not already done so.

Select the door, adjust using dimensions.

Where are you trying to place the soffit? Are you able to place it outside the structure?

I checked in a copy of Suite which I believe has the same roof options as Architectural. Could not get different materials on 2 buildings. This has been discussed on the forum sometime in the past, so searching may find a better answer. No way to separate buildings. Pro, with its advanced roof tools can do this.