Jo_Ann

Read this help article posted on Chieftalk. You have the same cabinet settings in Pro, and it will produce a much more realistic render. https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-03142/replacing-a-cabinet-s-standard-shelves-with-rollout-shelves-or-drawers.html Study ALL the shelf settings to manipulate the results.

Did you read my post? I gave you the answer.

It's because you probably used an "auto dormer". You need to add a smaller, complete room (with a normal height ceiling) connected to the front exterior wall.

Poor design, but the only way I think might work. Align the front of the hanging cabinet, with the right side of the wall cabinet. Then move the hanging cabinet all the way out to the end of the peninsula, to allow clearance for the door swing of the wall cabinet. Repeat the same crown molding all the way across both cabinets, to make them look unified.

When you watch any of the help files, you need to pay attention to whether it applies to your software. Some of them only relate to Pro.

Your 1st photo shows that you have Architectural, not Pro. You do not have manual roof control. You need to use the correct exterior wall type, or maybe you just need to reverse the layers of the existing wall.

This was done with "auto rebuild roof".

mikeSK: Do NOT hijack someone else's thread. Start your own new thread.

Yes. "Auto Rebuild Roof" has to be turned off, then use the paint can to select a roof material and paint the sections you want to change. If you accidentally rebuild the roof, the material will return to the default.

You say that you changed the "baluster" type, but the post did not change in the 3d view. Do you not understand that a "baluster" and a "newel" are different parts of the railing?

Is this not the same problem?

Yep.

"I have tried everything I can think of" doesn't tell anyone much, does it? And you haven't filled out your forum signature, either.

Best advise. is that you need to start looking at the help offered by the software, beginning with the user's guide. For help on the forum, you need to review the information that is asked for and needed, for forum people to offer the best help.

Why not just create a "room within a room", using room divider walls? Open the new room and raise the ceiling height. Add and size a crown molding from the library.

Use a custom backsplash for the tiled walls.

Pro has pony walls included in the 'drop down' wall menu, making it easy to change wall types. Architectural does not (kind of silly that it's not included). At least I don't think it has been added to the new version. To make it easier to change to a pony wall, FIRST hold down the control key and multi-select every door/window in the wall and copy. Delete the wall and draw in the new pony wall. "Paste in Place" the doors/windows that were copied. This forum offers help from users, like yourself. Rarely is there any comment from Home Designer moderators. And like Eric said, it is best to start a new thread.

What I see, when looking at your jpeg image, is that you've used glass shower walls to draw the shower as an entirely separate room within the bathroom. This makes it an 'island' room, and auto drawing a connected divider wall to an existing wall, is how the software deals with this type of room.

You can NOT change a roof pitch by opening a gable wall, and setting the pitch. You change the pitch on the eave walls on either side of the gable.

Draw 2 railing walls where those invisible walls are, forming a room that you can select and open. Make sure the walls are aligned with the walls below. Open the room, and uncheck "roof over this room".

I see that you've had the software for more than 6 years, and after 173 forum posts, I sure don't understand why you do not know how to do this?

How deep will the pond be, at the end nearest to the door? At the south end of the terrain...how far down does that slope? (8', 10'?) I'm trying to replicate your plan more accurately. First you must set the rectangular feature depth, then shape the rectangle to what you want. THEN shape the slab walls around the rectangular feature shape. A flat 6" slab was used for the water.

I think you aren't communicating what you really want. Do you not want the bottom of the pond to follow the slope? Do you just want a flat bottom pool?

I can't tell from looking at the pic...did you recess the rectangular feature as mentioned? Or... did you put 4 slab walls together and add a flat slab of water to the pool? Is there going to be a deck partially around the pool?