DavidJPotter

I cannot tell much from the images posted (elevation views would be more useful) Where you require flat terrain use terrain flat area, otherwise use elevation lines or splines for where you do not want it flat. Do not place differing value elevation objects too close together, space them out, they are programmed to create a gradient between differing value objects, trying to micromanage those gradients is not worthwhile to try. You use as few elevation objects as you can to get the effect you want. DJP

Without a posted image or a plan all we can do is guess what you want. DJP

Open the stair dialog after creating the stair object. Open the "Style" tab and change the "Tread Overhang" and "Tread Thickness" input box values to "zero" Uncheck the check box for "open Underneath" and "Open Risers" On the "Materials Tab" set various catagories to "Concrete" Done Here is a short You Tube video of me doing it: http://youtu.be/Cr0pXalRI2c DJP

There is also a setting in the "Build Roof" dialog that lets you control "minimum alcove" creation, take a look and try it. DJP

When you ask this question here (of end users) I would expect end-user type answers though your question seems also aimed at the software's makers as a complaint or pointing out an error. I use this software to draft plans with, it is not perfect to nine decimal points and any software is merely a tool. When dimensions do not go or stay where I want them, I correct them manually. The number of times I have placed a dimension point and it moved from that point is annoying but in my experience not prevalent or constant. On large, detailed plans one must check and recheck them before printing. That has not changed since I started nor do I expect it to ever change in terms of personal responsibility for any end products or outcomes I create for others. DJP

That is why I suggested that you mess around with it in terms of practice, after you change the input values in its dialog you will at once see how to make it the way you need and want. This is true of many things you will confront in this software, you read about the tool or action, then practice what you read until you really then get an "action deffinition" understanding of how it works. DJP

Mess around with a soffit and look for the check box to "Slope" the soffit that allows you to vary its angle thr object as you might want and then apply it where you want. DJP

au contraire, thanks Kat! DJP

I recommend that you contact Chief Architect Tech Support by e mail now or by phone M-F Pacific time business hours. They are the support experts. DJP

I opened my copy of HD Pro 2015 and the wall framing O. C. is set globally for all walls, Chief Premier is the same but does have a feature where you can reframe a single wall or roof plane mostly manually, so in Pro, I agree with Mick that manually reframing is your choice if you want each stud to show in Plan view. You might consider just annotating the wall framing per wall where the walls are framed differently, wall to wall. Things like wind bracing I do with annotations and CAD Details where indicated. I rarely use any 3D framing as it tends to confuse framers since they are more used to 2D plan, CAD Details and elevation views ayway. DJP

The problem with third-party render applications is that they use 3-D models and no Home Designer title exports such models in any 3-D format, so that narrows down your choices to image editing applications like Photoshop, Paint Shop Pro and others. Photo-realistic renderings start with a 3D model where you can then tweak materials and lighting to get that professional looking result. You might look at Sketch Up as a starting point, the professional version comes with add on features that can obtain stunning results but it is programmed completely differently from Chief Architect-Home Designer titles that use objects as opposed to lines and shadings. DJP

Basically, in a camera view you just place the windows using the Window tool, then resize to suit. DJP

Objecting to the preview ,jpg image being created is like wishing the sun not to rise, in that the software produces a preview thumbnail image (it is programmed to do that by its makers), you can specify a small or large thumbnail but you cannot turn the feature off. The intended purpose is that when you open a plan file, the image shows in the "Open Plan-Layout file dialog". Deleting the existing image will only prompt the software to create a new one, the next time you open that plan or layout file. I do not particularly like the feature but it is what it is presently. DJP

You can always zip (compress) a plan file and share it with Tech Support for them to analyze and that would be your best bet at a useful answer. I use this software to make my living and so I try to learn and avoid doing things that bloat the plan file unnecessarily or that cuase it to be unstable because my familiy's well being is on the line. I have never had a plan or project that I did not finish succesfully but sometimes they were completed on my intention and will to do so, though this is very rare in my experience, it has happened a couple of times on very large, very complex projects. DJP

Commonly Sales staff do not monitor the forums, rather Tech Staff like Dermot Dempsey or the Park brothers (Doug and Dan), most of them are busy doing their assigned duties at Chief Inc. and leave the forum to us. DJP

Compatibility: Requires iOS 6.0 or later. Compatible with iPhone, iPad, and iPod touch. This app is optimized for iPhone 5. DJP

Have you tried a Library Browser "Search" yet? Have you downloaded the free additional Bonus and Manufacturer Libraries from the Home Designer website yet? Have you downloaded-installed "Core Content"? DJP

I do not have a smart phone and have not used "Room Planner", that is a good question for "Sales Chief Inc" though. DJP

"Intuitive" is a very subjective term by itself. This software is controlled by the precise selection and combination of settings, input box values and procedures well understood and followed. People often mean intuitive to be "able to get results by guessing instead of study followed by practice", You know what you mean but in my own expreience the competence I have with this software was gained only by applied, careful study followed by applied practice of what I studied as well as looking out for terms and nomenclature I was unfamiliar with and once spotting those words, getting them well defined and understood (if you do not understand the words, you will not be able to get the needed-wanted results of any study or activity). This is ofcourse a forum for gaining help but the first line of help is built into your software under the "Help" menu where you can find and read the Reference Manual, search the Help Files, locate and watch video tutorials. Another great resource is the "Knowledge Base" located at the Home Designer Webate under the "Support" dropdown menu where you can search for useful articles in the large Knowledge Base. All of the various titles and versions of Home Designer software (Pro, Architectural, Suite, Essentials, Interior Designer) are similar in function but different in abilites, one to another. So it is useful to know when posting which of those five you have and its general version number, otherwise you might get an answer that applies only to Pro but not to Suite etc. DJP

I created a plan in Pro 2015 and then opened in in HD Architect 2015. I got an automated message that I could view but not edit the Pro plan in Architect. I then created a plan in HD Architect 2015 and then opened that plan in HD Pro 2015 and it merely opened. So the answer is you can share witl Pro 2015 plans made in other 2015 software titles but plans created in Pro 2015 can only be edited in another seat of HD Pro or Chief Architect Premier. Once a plan started in anything but Pro gets opened and saved, it can no longer then be edited in anything but Pro or Chief Premier. DJP

Are you trying to create a terrain plane object on the first floor ( <1>) or some other floor? If you have already created one then the command would be greyed out as well, check and see please. What program title and version are you using please? DJP

The larger the plan in Mb the the more stress it places upon your PC, you either must get a stronger PC or Mac or keep your plans smaller. In my twenty years of use, I have only had a couple of plan files that large (a 1,000,000 spuare Hotel and a large, seven building commercial development). For the last 15 years, I custom build my PC's to stand up to heavy use. You might also look at cleaning-maintaining your PC in terms of defragmentation of the hard drive, scaning for malware, virus etc, that also helps speed up performance. DJP

You can also go to Acme Brick Co or others like Boral and select a texture you like, and then import that into the Library Browser as a custom Material (Right-Click in the LB and select "New Material" then follow the dialogs to create, name and import whatever you like). There is a reasonable assortment of Brick that you can download from the HD website called "Cultured Stone" that has an assortment of brick colors as well. DJP

Here is a short You Tube Video tutorial on a way to do what you want: click here to view the video. DJP

No This software is designed to draw the first floor, then foundation, then upper floors, if any. I have never drawn a foundation first but I suppose there is nothing wrong with doing so. My advice is to study first the free video tutorials that are provided with the program (Help-Tutorial videos) and then read the section in the Reference Manual on "Getting Started", then the section about "Foundation Defaults". Using a tool that you have not yet fully studied and practiced with (lots of people do this) is inefficient and productive of learning how to fail instead of succeed. DJP