DavidJPotter

You Tube Tutorials on how to do what I posted above Custom Stairs in Arch 10 part one: Part two: DJP

Your opinions are yours to have and to state. Similar complaints appear whenever a new version is released, whether Chief Premier or Home Designer (I have been a user since 1994). The one constant in Life is change. New versions contain fixes and additions that lots of end users asked for based upon the function or lack there of in older versions. You should follow your own opinions and do or not do what you consider is best for you, always. Thank you for sharing your observations with us. DJP PS: depending upon which version you have, you should already be able to create such stairs or at least a close facemile of them (see attached image done in Architectural 2015, you should be able to do this in versions back to version, the stair tools have not changed significantly since V6)

If you are running it on a weak PC or Laptop that has integrated video hardware it may not be strong enough to perform as designed (see minimum requirements at the Home Designer Website). Or you may be using the wrong camera tool for what you want to see, Hard to tell just from what you have posted. I have been using their software for over twenty years, and I know on the right hardware it works fine. DJP

Yes, you set up your "Drawing Sheet" and scaling before hand and then Architectural will then print to PDF or paper at that assigned scale. The steps are simple but unforgiving if you miss or overlook a step, like most software. It costs a little more but does more than Suite or Essentials was designed to do, Pro is even better and can print up to 18" x 24" paper or PDF. DJP

Suite (any version) has never had text and dimensions in elevation views and it does not now. Architetural 2015 and Home Designer Pro 2015 both have that capability and have had for several versions. DJP

I am not sure from your post if this is the exact Knowledge Base article that you need, if it is not, do your own search there: http://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-01809/30/Home-Designer/Foundations/Creating-a-Stepped-Foundation.html DJP

The materials list feature ONLY measures how and what you put into the model (plan file), so if the blocks are not properly scaled to match howyou will build that will give you a goofy number of blocks, in other words if you built the plan file perfectly in every detail, it will then and only then provide a useable materials list. Software is just a mechcanical device and it just measures in terms of a materials list from how and how well you put the structure together, No tricks, only methodical making sure your model duplicates the intended house. DJP

Can you please elaborate please? What exactly have you done or not done that did not work or provide the expected result? DJP

Generally speaking, you set all your relevant defaults, then draw your walls, then adjust the floor height of the garage to its lowest level (garages usually have a slanted floor for drainage so you set the garage at its lowest point (just under the garage door) since Home Designer does not natively do slanted floors). DJP

In L & DD 2012 you you can import scans of site plans in .png, .jpg , .bmp and Metafiles, you then scale the imported image so you can then trace over the results with native tools in LDD. DJP

I am a twenty-year user, I use Chief Architect Inc software to make a living. I am not an employee of Chief Inc. I have tried several times to directly import GPS data and surveyor maps in .dxf format and my conclusion is that yes it can be done but the results obtained are mostly too complex for most PC's and Mac's to easily handle due to their unnecessary complexity. In other words yes the software is programmed to do that job and does it well, my point is that such imports are overly complex, they create too many "3D Faces or (triangles which form the 3D Faces of a terrain plane"; each particle of each face is expressed in computer language as to its virtual location (x,y,z axis), its color etc and this is communicated to your video card. If you were able to write down how much language that is required to communicate a complex object it would be many pages of charectors and this reading per unit of time is past the capacity of most computers to visually communicate per second. What I do on a daily basis is to scan a site plan or topo map and then import that into the software, then make sure it is scaled properly, then trace over it with elevation splines, lines and elevation regions objects using as few as is possitle so I form the terrain as I need (I do NOT ever use elevation points as they are harder-more time consuming to edit afte the fact (too small to easily see). When I get the terrain plane modulated as I require, I then delete the terrain map image or scan and then set the terrain object TO the house (you NEVER adjust the house structure to the terrain plane but rather adjust the terrain as an abject to the house or structure. This I have found is the most workable way to get this result as opposed to direct imports/conversions of line entites or other tine-based imports from other sources.It requires patience and being methodical but produces the best product with the least amount of problems. DJP

I did this tutorial for a user who had a problem with missing railing and a hole in his deck: Click here to view DJP

You would have to upgrade to Pro, sorry, DJP

http://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-01809/0/Creating-a-Stepped-Foundation.html DJP

Although Home Designer software is inexpensive it is still quite sophisticatedly complex in action. Often times the thing to do is to persist provided you methodically check and recheck your settings (especially Default Settings). Often times I "fix" something simply because I refuse to fail, knowing that what I have done should work. I have an advantage over most users because I have both failed many times but succeeded more than that (twenty years of constant usage). It is often your acceptance of failure that IS the cause of failure and ends any further possibility of success. Such times are few but make the difference between a win and a loss as well as a winning track record. This is what I have chosen as a living and career so perhaps that gives me more elan vital but I do know it makes a difference as to outcomes not to mention happiness. DJP

Roof ridges are formed at the exact center point between the two paralell walls, that is why you have two ridges showing in your elevation. Create "Temporary Walls" (walls you use only to guide the roof generator tool that you delete AFTER you get the roof system you need, that are equal-distant from each other (at the right dimension you want) that then produce the straight roof line). When done, you turn off "Auto build roofs" and then place your interior walls and live happily everafter. DJP

Here is the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ViOfSEsyrW0&feature=youtu.be I was able to straighten it up some in Suite 2012 but had to fall back on Premier X4 to really make it a product. I advise you to send the plan to Tech Support and perhaps they can give you a more succinct answer as to "Why" because you can no longer buy X4 (only X6) and that is an expensive solution for a problem of software that costs under $100.00. All's well that ends well, I and William always say. DJP PS: for some reason the link does not (will not) show (it is invisible when I post it) Tried again, see below http://youtu.be/ViOfSEsyrW0

"I didn't realize there was that kind of support available." I do this sort of thing gratis from time to time, because I consider it fun to help others and it is great advertising for my skills. I am self-employed and help as I can in order to attract others who need more involved help in exchange for money, so I am not just being altruistic; the bottom line is, I consider this kind of work "FUN" so it is not "Work" at all for me. You do as you like. DJP

In twenty years of constant use, I have never been asked to make a model. I have done countless renderings, Construction documentation sets and I have worked with companies that use Chief Architect Premier plan files to create the structural members of homes using an on-site computer-driven device that made actual studs and roof panels on site from my virtual models, then on-site workers then juse put them together under supervision. My advice is to contact Chief Architect Tech Support where it is their business to know what can be known of that feature and they are most likely to be able to help with useful advice for that precise issue/endeavor. DJP

Please send me a copy of your file, and I will take a look and make a video of the results to post on You Tube if you like. DJP

I am sure from reading your posts that you will not receive this very well but the software ONLY follows settings, so if the results are wrong, the settings are wrong for what you want. There is no other cause possible. I can tell at a glance that some of the settings in your walls have wrong or argumentative settings as to "Pitch over this wall" in their roof tabs, Default Settings and Ceiling height, per room dialog is also important. I have learned to never assume things are right, rather I methodically check them, align and correct them. The only advantage I have over you is that I have failed more or at least enough that I know that if my results are unwanted, I missed something. An important is fully understanding what each setting does and that takes study, practice and time to learn. Roofs make everyone crazy until you truly learn how to make them they way you want them. What software title and version are you using please? Home Designer makes five or six different titles per version and they vary in ability and procedure. How to achieve different roof types is explained on the "Roof Styles" tab of the "Build Roof" Dialog as to basic data. Find the wrongful settings in your wall dialogs, Default Settings, Build Roof Dialog and then all will be well DJP

"1) So I come to the question, have I overlooked a useful feature in Pro10 to resolve any or most of these issues? i.e.: a) auto attic walls on-off; SIP roof option; c) Better object generation (like a hex room)." Bill, if a regular roof plane can be made to look like a SIP roof panel, no one else will know but you and me. Seriously, it is not important whether or not an object is or is not what it is named, for drafting purposes, as long as it looks like one and you label it as such, for all practical purposes it is. Attic walls can be temporarily turne off in "3D Preferences" (the command you use is to uncheck "Automatic rebuild walls, floors and ceilings", that is the function that automatically rebuilds them per unit of time). You cannot delete them with "Automatic rebuild walls, floors and ceilings" "ON" but you can open them and make them invisible by way of their spec. dialog. HD Peo 10 has a polygon deck tool, you can use it as intended and then convert it to a room, changing the walls and name as you desire, but I rarely use that tool for that purpose, though I have on occasion. With practice and determination you can make a perfectly symetric hexigon room manually, I have done it many, many times. The key is to dimension it one wall at a time, clock-wise until all the walls are equal, it does take some patience. The real key to making a manual coupla is to create a blank second or third floor, that action prevents any attic walls intruding into the space you wish to build the coupla "room". The 2015 line is worth your attention but you do NOT need to upgrade to do what you have described above, you do need to learn ALL the tools available that are built into HD Pro 10 first (the same tools exist in 2015 that you are not using now). DJP

Thanks Mick, Suite does not come with the ability to import dxf files, sorry, of all the available titles of Home Designer only Home Designer Pro has that ability. DJP

A "Break" is a "Break" but with "Object Snaps" "ON" it just takes one line and divides it into two lines. If you then want to remove a segment then you make a second break so as to isolate that line entity. Then turn "ON" "Edit Poly-Line Parts"; with that tool mode active, you can then move, copy or delete the isolated line entity from the others as you wish. When done turn off "Edit Poly-Line Parts" mode. DJP

What software title and version DO you have please? Answer that please and then I can answer you question but not until then. DJP