DavidJPotter

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Everything posted by DavidJPotter

  1. I started a video of fixing your plan but got interrupted by a paying client (sorry). After looking over your terrain elevation data the mistake you made was 1. using terrain elevation points (I NEVER USE THEM, EVER, it is too hard to edit them afterwards and makes editing terrain way too complicated) 2. elevation points off or outside the terrain plane are nothing graphic clutter and only confuse matters. I would recommend that you delete all elevation points and start over using elevation splines and elevation regions and as few of those as is possible. This makes editing your terrain easier and more manageable. The ideal way to edit terrain is to make a measurement using a camera view usually an elevation camera. Then apply that value change to specific elevation objects, then view that result in isometric camera views to verify its correctness or the lack thereof. Then further slight changes until you get a visual result that is desirable. This article may be useful to you: https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00718/modeling-a-sloping-terrain-for-a-walk-out-basement.html DJP
  2. The best help can arrive if you state what software you are using (Version and title) and if you share a copy of your problem plan so lucid and concise advice can then be offered, otherwise all you can receive is guesses. DJP
  3. yes, use the CAD tools to curve the sides the use a poly line driveway object. DJP
  4. I have not observed any degradation in any Home Designer software rendering. DJP
  5. Look it up on the WWW or perhaps the manufacturer's website. Specifications of various fireplace objects are not held secret. DJP
  6. A better more precise explanation could be forthcoming if you also were to post a copy of your floor plan. In the absence of it, nothing but guesses can be offered. DJP
  7. DavidJPotter

    Wall Dormers

    Here is a You Tube tutorial video of me creating a curved roof (segmented) manual dormer in Home Designer Pro 2016: https://youtu.be/-A1WrUrUCP8 DJP
  8. The Nana wall symbols are so designed and originally created by a Chief Architect Premier user Named Michael. He shared his creation freely with other users and that is how he designed an otherwise complicated symbol. If you think about it how would you make such a symbol of such complexity? Michael made a decision and his symbols work perfectly used as designed. Things generally are as they are not not always as we might like them to be. DJP
  9. "Wall Specification Dialog - Wall Covering Tab - Add New". Using that tool you can add as many interior or exterior wall coverings as you desire. Please read all or some of these help articles: https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/search/?q=Wall+coverings DJP
  10. DavidJPotter

    Wall Dormers

    Also look in the dormer specification dialog under "Roof type" drop-down menu DJP
  11. Nana wall symbols are not doors per se, they are symbols and as such you need to create a doorway and then place the nana wall symbol in that opening created by the doorway. This is how they are designed to work in Home Designer and Chief Architect software (they are not doors rather they are symbols of doors) DJP
  12. DavidJPotter

    Wall Dormers

    In such cases the dormer tool may not be your first choice. In such cases one would manually construct dormers, some of these help articles may be of help: https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/search/?q=manual+dormers DJP
  13. Check the room specification dialogs directly underneath where the roof generator is working incorrectly, look for settings that are causing the roof generator to fail. DJP
  14. Home Designer Pro has no "stump" objects in its library. Posts on the other hand can be emulated using "Geometric Shapes". If you must have specifically "stumps" you might try a "search" at 3D Warehouse to see if anything there might be useful to your project. DJP
  15. Whatever you end up buying, do yourself a favor and take the time to really learn how to use it. Read the "Users Guide" and then study-practice using the "Reference Manual" little by little until you understand what the software is designed to do, then armed with that knowledge, enjoy creating with it. DJP
  16. I suggest you call and talk to Chief Tech Support during their Pacific Time office hours M-F DJP
  17. positioning is done with manual dimensions (that is the way I do it in Premier). Layer control is not something that is available in Pro, sorry but you can get your job done by turning layers on and off in Display Options. DJP
  18. Dimensions are programmed to work perpendicular or parallel to dimensional surfaces. If your dimensional points or objects are not so, then temporarily turn off "Angle Snaps", draw your dimensions and then turn "Angle Snaps" back on when finished. DJP
  19. That is because the basements walls are out of alignment with the first floor walls, the software is compensating for your mistakes. DJP
  20. Framing does not "disappear" rather it can be turned on or off depending upon the "Display Options" you are using (there are several, one for plan view, and one for each different camera view) DJP
  21. You can but that is NOT recommended, rather you move the terrain and leave the house where and as it is. DJP
  22. Take a look at the Reference Manual sections on assigning materials, the Material eye dropper and painter are the last tools to use for that purpose and not until you have studied and practiced with those tools four operating modes. DJP
  23. Try this object made by a Chief Architect Premier user DJP Attic Stair.zip
  24. Unless you also turn on "Show Line Weights", they will not visually show, look it up in the Reference Manual or do a Search in Help. Such changes will show when you print but you get a relative visual change with "Show Line Weights" turned on. DJP