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447Debbie

Walls not lining up

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Does anybody have any idea why these walls are different?  I am trying to do something out of the ordinary.  
Storage off the garage is actually over the basement.  Maybe that is messing something up, but I'm pretty sure at one time, this all lined up and now all of a sudden it's off.  It makes a mess of the roof once I try to build one.  Pictures attached have an arrow drawn to the same location in each view.

junk1.jpg

Image2.jpg

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Post the plan, and use vector view for images please.

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Hopefully this is all you need for the plan.  I used the option to backup plan file only since the other option was well over 25 mb.  I don't know what you mean by vector view but the plan file should hopefully be all you need.  It is the left corner of the house just behind the garage.  I just screen dumped those pictures so they're at best .bmps, and worst case are .jpgs.  I'd like the garage to house entry to also be no step, but the big thing right now is that this one corner is driving me nuts.

Untitled_3.zip

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Vector View. Note how the edges are highlighted making them easy to see.

 

ht1.thumb.jpg.526990518bc4b37721b109f5de88115b.jpg

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Can you do that with the plan file I sent?  If not, I'll upload another tomorrow.

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11 minutes ago, 447Debbie said:

Can you do that with the plan file I sent?  If not, I'll upload another tomorrow.

 

I was suggesting for the future.

 

I set the floor structure to default for that room on the corner and it fixed the walls.

 

I noticed you have what looks like extra framing that I've painted blue.

 

ht1.thumb.jpg.6852ac34d411fb1aa6a626b827477ba1.jpg

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Thank you Eric.  Got it, for the future I'll set that on vector view.  

I'll check into the extra framing but I don't know enough about framing to even begin to act like what I have in there is how it will be framed,  I kind of let the program do it.  I played around with it to get it in there just to get an idea of what it might look like and to see where the supports would be under the refrigerators.  I did have to set the framing at some large depth, can't remember if it was 18", 20" or 24" though because I wanted the extra deep basement to get the bottom terrain in the back while keeping the garage as high as possible and still maintain the no step walk in between the garage and the house.   I added the depth in the framing so I could make sure my floor plan had enough steps in the stairway, with a side benefit of being able to run the ductwork in the framing if I go with floor trusses.  

I'll be meeting with architects/designers this fall out in your state to see if can get something going on this.  I wish you were closer to my build area.

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3 hours ago, 447Debbie said:

I'll check into the extra framing

 

I only looked at the basement, but there you have the Ceiling Finish set to 4" with 2 layers, one is framing. Normally Ceiling Finish is drywall in 1/2" or 5/8" thickness.

 

Here is another suggestion -- check Sun Follows Camera. As you rotate the model, the program will light the part you are looking at.

 

ht1.thumb.jpg.79cabacd5dd7f6a90880a6781afcb9c2.jpg

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447Debbie,

 Walls that are out of alignment, is the least thing you should be concerned with, That plan needs to be rebuilt from scratch, let 

the software do the work for you, Porches, Garages, Balconies and Slabs are excluded by Default, you don't have to tell the program

to do so. This is not a sophisticated or difficult floor plan, it's simple and easy to built.

I could not figure out why you have the terrain perimeter at 23616" and elevation lines at 23520 etc:??

Use elevation regions about 2 to 4, instead of elevation lines, the regions are easier to control than the lines.

You have Furniture and Fixture outside of house? you know that adds to the size of the plan.

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On 3/3/2019 at 10:52 AM, LawB10 said:

447Debbie,

 Walls that are out of alignment, is the least thing you should be concerned with, That plan needs to be rebuilt from scratch, let 

the software do the work for you, Porches, Garages, Balconies and Slabs are excluded by Default, you don't have to tell the program

to do so. This is not a sophisticated or difficult floor plan, it's simple and easy to built.

I could not figure out why you have the terrain perimeter at 23616" and elevation lines at 23520 etc:??

Use elevation regions about 2 to 4, instead of elevation lines, the regions are easier to control than the lines.

You have Furniture and Fixture outside of house? you know that adds to the size of the plan.

None of that matters.  Whoever I hire to draw this for the official drawings is going to start from scratch anyway.  I'm not worried about it.  As far as the terrain perimeter and elevation lines, I used the actual elevation above sea level.

 

 

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On 3/3/2019 at 10:25 AM, solver said:

 

I only looked at the basement, but there you have the Ceiling Finish set to 4" with 2 layers, one is framing. Normally Ceiling Finish is drywall in 1/2" or 5/8" thickness.

 

Here is another suggestion -- check Sun Follows Camera. As you rotate the model, the program will light the part you are looking at.

 

ht1.thumb.jpg.79cabacd5dd7f6a90880a6781afcb9c2.jpg

I'll check into the issues with the basement ceiling.  Thanks.

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On 3/3/2019 at 12:48 PM, DavidJPotter said:

DJP

Thank you David for the video.  I just haven't gotten to the point of smoothing out the terrain.  I use it rough like this because I need to get a house plan I like before I go to the civil engineering firm and ask for the G&D plan.  So far, I only have the topography and that's what is on the plan. So the terrain is real, but still in virgin form.  I do appreciate your time and effort; I learned a lot from your video.

The furniture on the lawn bothered someone else because it increases the size of the plan.  I moved it out on the lawn because I am designing the rooms to accomodate multiple furniture layouts and I just wanted to get it out of the way.  In the future, I'll remove it before I upload the plan.  The 30' tall cabinet is out there because I use that to measure from the original terrain to the roof as the architectural committee has me limited to 30 feet max. and I couldn't figure out how to get the ruler to work in 3d view.  Sometimes there is a method to my madness.  :)

Yeah, I know the heat pumps by the front door isn't a good idea.  I was just playing with the shortest run to the air handlers.  I was thinking about trying to figure out a way to conceal them.  I'll probably end up putting them on the east side of the house.  The west side (right side in this plan) in Arizona is far from ideal so I won't be putting them over there.

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