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Everything posted by AppleWalker

  1. In-wall Hot/Cold Water Hookup
  2. Rubla House and Garage Plans.plan Rubla House and Garage Plans.plan
  3. Your answer is 5 posts up from yours in this thread. See the post by ChiefSales for the link.
  4. Mick, too funny I just wanted to be clear, when I uncheck that enhanced lighting box, HD renders very poorly and without shadows. I thought that might have been the issue here but apparently not... Thanks for all your advice here and on the Chief forum, VERY HELPFUL! -John
  5. Not sure if this will help you, but I get a BIG difference in renders if "use enhanced lighting" is not checked. "EDIT">"PREFERENCES">"RENDER" Also make sure your hardware edge smoothing is set to high.
  6. Hi Andria, Attached are a few pics of what I came up with. It's pretty rough and will need a lot of refinement but at least it might give you some ideas for your layout. I'd be happy to send you the plan if you like, I used HD Pro 2018. -John
  7. Very cool, Sir. Thank you for sharing! Looks like this is the year for me to upgrade to CA. I've been biding my time but sounds like they've made some major advances on this version. Can't wait to try it out!
  8. I would say it's entirely possible to do what you're asking in the software, it's a matter of how. The software probably won't do it automatically, you'll have to draw in beams and posts using either "soffits" in the cabinet tools or "boxes" in the library to represent these items. It takes a little time to place them correctly and you may have to use multiple shapes to get the decorative cuts you're after but you will end up with a pretty accurate representation of your plan. Work with your engineer to get the dimensions for the beams and draw them in manually after you've created the structure you're after. Hope this helps! -John
  9. I've had good luck creating horizontal slat-like walls using closed boxes under the "shapes" menu. I place them on the wall at different heights with a space in between and then just paint the wall behind them black.
  10. Pounce, I'm currently in the middle of the same situation with my own home. We are adding a 1400 sq/ft addition. I'm working with my engineer to produce plans for our county. The most our county (Multnomah in Oregon) wants to see is a differential between the new construction area vs a remodel area. I submitted plans with a shading easily applied in the layout sheets and that was more than enough for them to sign off on our plans. Not sure where you're from but most of the time, all they want to see is some delineation between the two areas or walls. I was able to do everything in HD Pro 2018 without having to upgrade to CA. It saved thousands of dollars in Architect costs and more than paid for the cost of the software. I would stick with what you have and experiment with your layout pages since these are what the municipality will actually see. There are very few things that cannot be done with this software for a remodel. In our case, I produced the architectural pages in the plans and let the engineer use my .DXF file to create his details, callouts, and cross sections. I hope this helps and good luck with your project! -John
  11. You could also lower the ceiling of your bay window...
  12. Larry, Generally speaking, the higher the better. Preventing water from entering the house is paramount, especially in your situation building so close to the bottom of a steep slope. Setting your 1st floor elevation at 394' will mean your driveway entering the garage is completely flat. Typically a slope away from the house is preferred to keep water from pooling and entering the garage. 1/8" to 1/4" per lineal foot should be plenty. Additionally, most municipalities require the landscape around the house to be graded such that there is a 2-3" slope away from the foundation out to a 10ft perimeter. Depending on the amount of excavation you are willing to do on the south side, I would start with the top of your foundation wall at least 396' (Preferably 398'). Also, observe the properties around you and how they are sloped, you don't want to create a dip in your backyard for water to pool in. Having the house at a higher elevation will also help with the view and looking over the house in front of it. Hope this helps and good luck with your project! -John
  13. Dust is in the "bonus" catalog downloads on the website. The download is in Materials and Surfaces under "Tile" I'm not sure why they added it as a default to the templates if it's not in the core catalog but here you go:
  14. Hi Sue, Welcome back to the forum! The pictures below are from a cabin I did for some friends in Idaho. It's a little small at just under 1400 sq/ft and I'm not sure if the style is what you're looking for. It might offer a starting point that you could take and make your own. I'd be happy to send you the plan, it was done in Home Designer Pro 2018. -John
  15. I think Eric and I had similar ideas...
  16. jlliles87, Is this what you were trying to do with the returns? If it doesn't complete like that, you can manually adjust the length of your return in the "roof" dialogue right under the "auto roof return" box you check initially. I had to play around a little to get the dimensions correct. P.S., I took some liberties with your deck, hope you don't mind...
  17. Chief Dreams, I think I understand what you're trying to do. The lip at the bottom of the cabinet can be achieved by applying a base molding at 4" from the bottom (see capture1) Make sure to set your profile to reflect the thickness of the first shelf and a width of 1 1/2" to make your total depth of that shelf 17 1/2". As for setting the shelves to a 15 7/8" depth, it seems the closest you can get in the "shelf specs" dialogue is 15 1/4". Maybe that one can go to CA as a suggestion for the next update?
  18. AppleWalker

    Glass bridge

    This is one that was inspired by Philip Johnson