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why does it have to be done with auto roof? To quote someone famous: GIT ER DUN. Things is with auto roof and using a plan that has been tweaked and prodded sometimes things are setup you do not realize and can cause roof issues. every wall room edit pages have a bunch of things that affect roof as do the plan Defaults and how you set up the roof each time you run auto roof. WIth big plans lots of walls etc multi story can take a while to find what is messing up roof. Why I jus run it once to draw majority of planees and then edit them as that takes no time

oh the outside wall is stone or concrete not wood framed. See where I live everything made from Wood. no concrete or stone walls. Maybe a brick or stone veneer..

too old software for me as I forget what it would let you do or not. If my project I would just edit roof planes manually.

just keep playing. your issues are experience and knowing how wall height and location affect the roof. Also when you do manual roofs by say editing an auto one. Then you can go back and Re-build roof again using automatic roof. BUT check RETAIN MANUAL DRAWN ROOF PLANES as well as RETAIN EDITED AUTOMATIC ROOF PLANES . - Then it leaves those you edited alone and does not make new roof there just ties into them. You need to see what all those options do. Watch the HD Videos PLay and learn more All I and others could do is take your plan and tweak to give you the roof you want. - but you need to be able to do that. GO to the sample plans see what they have done. Good Luck.

you could make that house in HD pro where you can manual tweak roof planes. The 2 gable thing is simple using the GABLE line before making roof. just make sure yo have a wall below for it to align with. Need to learn about no roof on second floor so first floor roof extends up and turns the second floor into the 1/2 floor which means the second floor is inside roof. YOu just need more practice. Start slow with working on one area at a time

which software version are you using?

You need to hire an P.E. (engineer) licensed in your state who knows the building code. So someone local. I could figure it out being an engineer but the loads and materials and connections and etc. All come to play. IF actual pre-built trusses - you cn contact truss manufacturer as they tend to have engineers on staff to design the truss. PS that is not really a truss just a normal roof with rafters and collar ties near ridge and vaulted ceiling below. HEck this HD software does not even create collar ties and rafter vertical supports that ties into load bearing walls below.

the dialogue you show.... what is it for? what level? I would go into the defaults and set each level... oh wait you are using 2022.... not sure what it has, as it has been a long time for me

yes Program will join a cabinet to anything that is 3" or less away. So you can space cabinets apart and it will add the filler

11 years ago was this thread and the software has changed drastically since then.

I cannot open your plan as I do not have HD 2026 nor will I get it. from screen shots. Looks like you need to just REBUILD framing and let software delete old framing and make new based on roof. In roof settings lock on PITCH. Let it figure the rest as pitch is what you want. The room settings will dictate everything else. Also better to set all these settings in the default settings for the plan. Then you only tweak those things that are different from the norm. Save as HD2025 and maybe I can play with it.

I have 2 bathrooms like this. Tried 2 new walls that did not have sheetrock on sides that touch - program did not like that very much and would delete first wall drawn. so I end up just using SOFFIT and went from floor to ceiling. Looks great.

hard to answer without pictures and maybe copy of plan. For the rooms what do you have ceiling height set at? My suggestions to try is make all rooms with a wall height of 1.5" base plate + 3" for 2 top plates + 92.625 for pre-cut studs = 97.125" Do not worry about high side at this point Set roof pitch at your 1.5" per foot. draw outer walls. Then generate roof using the auto roof function. IT will create attic walls above normal walls on high side. See you say 16ft but is that out to out or inside or what? Also, why so important to have exactly 10ft tall wall? Studs come in 2 lengths for 10ft. 120" or 104 5/8" PRetty much always have bottom plate and 2 top plates at 1.5" thick each. So for your 10ft wall you have to buy 120" studs and cut everyone - adds labor cost and probably a wavy ceiling at edge.

did yo make new wall with out drywall on one side? for the look you can "PAINT" with the "stud wall with insulation" Shows studs and pink insulation in between.

maybe your view is on floor 0 and not floor 1? Should see number 1 like in attached pic. If you see 0 click up arrow to change floor that you see

the back wall as drawn is on first floor but you have few windows in tha wall drawn on 2 floor. windows have to be drawn on same floor as wall.

I have it in HD Pro 2025

when I put my default to cut list - that is what I get every single one and the length. Does not combined a bunch of short ones into something that can be cut out of say a 12ft long board ...

what are your settings under default for material list? See attached as example

maybe check what layers are turn on to be visible in the 3d scree.

customize a corner cabinet - something with shelves would be nice

there is a setting somewhere - defaults or ?? where you can change the material to a cut list which would then show every item and length what you have now is TOTAL board feet to buy.

I understand now what you want. Tried playing with software and got frustrated. Best I could do was to play with each rooms absolute floor height. weird how it loves to make concrete stem walls in lieu of wood beams on posts.

got picture or sketch or something visual to better explain issue?

I understand what you want now but just do not understand why other then to make spaces "READ" larger than they are. I cannot fit my bed in a closet in a bedroom so by saying that bedroom is 120 sqft is misleading. the bedroom is 100 sqft and the closet is 20sqft; 2 separate spaces. room divider is an invisible wall that splits a space into 2 rooms by having and enclosed space so kitchen and living room with an invisible wall separating them. but the pantry in the kitchen is not part of the kitchen area nor is the closet in the living room or garage or hallway area a part of the room they are inside. I have never seen a house plan where the creator (Designer or architect) includes the closet sqft to the bedroom sqft. But to each their own I think the reason you cannot do what you want (unless manually add text on plan) is it is not normal for house plans.