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my guess is you used a shelf to make this post and since that is under cabinets it automatically creates filler strips to have it touch wall. Try making it from a SHAPE - Rectangle vertical.. You can change the dims andmaterial to your liking. then ensure you have SHAPES turned on in VIEWING

for front draw invisible wall where you want the gable end - select wall type to be whatever you want the gable end to be. MAke sure you select GABLE END under the roof edit tab for this wall. Now if you have visible beam under gable end you could make this wall a RAILING and select post to beam

in a normal PLAN views the doors are not drawn nor shown. Just the cabinet Carcass or box is shown. Now you can click on the open doors and drawers in pan view and they will show up then as dotted lines.

First CLick on object in your plan that has this existing white Laquer color. OPen up the edit screen Go to material tab. Click & Highlight the part that shows this white laquer color Then to right of it you can click on SELECT MATERIAL under 2 squares showing examples of existing material you have highlighted. This will open a new MATERIAL SELECTION screen. (see attachment screen shot) I point with red arrow where you click to go to a NEw Screen that lists only material used in PLAN. IT should open up with your highlighted Material being highlighted in the list. Now look to the right in the middle below those 2 swatch boxes you will see a link to ADD TO LIBRARY. click that and it adds it to your custom library, so it is easier to find in future. Or do nothing but maybe write material name down so you do not forget and then can back out of everything and go search in full library for it and find it to see if there are more.

I would ensure platform with angled stairs is to the dims they show. that 6" along the inside edge is what gives you the 10" at the walk line. So do what you must to get that 6" and everything should work out. Choice as I see it is make stairs narrower or platform steps bigger. Or U shaped stairs?

USE TERRAIN ELEVATION TOOLS. They have elevation points, lines and splines. Insert these points, lines etc and give each an elevation (after drawing select for edit and in the edti screen is all sorts of things and ELEVATION being one of them) Then after they are all in go and REBUILD Terrain. All sorts of terrain things covered in help screen manual. If you have survey plans with elevation lines you can import data sometimes. Strongly suggest checking out help screen and search some topics on elevation - click on links in there and dig down and then practice. Heck might be a video on HD support page

USE CENTER command. Click on one off center to select it. Then click CENTER button on bottom left row of buttons. Select/click The one that is 2 arrows pointing at each other Then move cursor to cabinet that is centered and move mouse so a Centerline appears centered on this cabinet where you want. Best to do in PLAN view NOte watch for the centerline because it will choose sides and possible change directions so not vertical horizontal. Note they also have one for mirror, align/perpendicular etc. Lots of stuff covered in manual if you type in CENTER as it should lead you to the other as lots of things in construction are centered or perpendicular or aligned with other objects. Another method could be in plan view select objet you want to move and temp dims come appear. Select the dimension you know you want to change. Example base aligned with upper. Select base and some temp dims appear select one that you can change the value to force the base to be centered with upper. All depends on what temp dims you get that time and they can change based on where you select on the object. PRACTICE and this is powerful and saves bunch of time.

GEt pro and then manually edit those automated roof planes to get what you want.

yes that is how they are made in real world you unscrew frame on say top and slide the new wood door panel down. Usually these types of fridges have handles etc atached to door middle edge - See Sub-Zero in MANUFACTURER Library. Then for vertical pilasters on sides you could leave space when setting cabinets and go to normal library under architecture/ millwork: And go thru each subfolder for columns or balusters etc until you find one you like the look and stick in between cabinets and stick forward 1-3". IF sides not flat use partition to fill gap by making it thick and go from cabinet to cabinet but is flush with front cabinet face frames. Or stick in a Cabinet that is BLANK and solid front to fill in gap. lots of way for that type of stuff. Just remember you are trying to make a pretty 3D rendering not exactly how you build as that would be up to cabinet and trim carpenters.

well if already in your plan - on left of material screen you have choice library or plan Choose PLAN as it is a short list of those you have put into your plan at one time or another. Some may not being used at moment and can be PURGED out or left alone.

open the room within the U walls and the other side you seem to have a hidden wall to make it a room. Open room edit feature GO to structure tab CLICK HELP Read about ceiling control features. PAy attention to SHELF CEILING I think you will find it suits your needs

try framing? I duuno I am running PRo 2024 and it has rough opening.

first off, what is it?

check under door edit rough opening clearance above door since you do not have casing to cover any gaps you must have the clearance very small not including Jamb,

you can draw manual Ceiling planes

Hey I was just guessing as I did not and still confused on what he wants. I am sure it is something simple.. Oh well I need more coffee

how is it coveered? Using HOUSe ROOF or a separate roof with differeent material and pitch.. Example house is 12:!2 pitch with architectural shingles. Covered porch is aluminum stuff from the gutter guy.. IF same and part of house roof just make it a deck Click on room edit button for it and I think go to structure tab. Then check ROOF over this room. IF different just make a custom roof plane and set it up to your liking

I think it is nature of the software since t does not know which one you want to stick thru to other side of door. As some tile guys use that marble threshold or maybe a piece of wood trim. They need an option under door edit screen to say where flooring meet. Something like, Interior door edge, Middle door, Exterior door. Then define threashold where it is material and how wide do you want it and how high above floor.

OR create new one based off old one. but for texture take picture and edit it and clean up and use that in material definition. I do that all the time to show the wife what the FLOOR will look like by using web pictures of chosen tile. Same thing for some siding I put on fireplace - Home Depot has some good picture. And the more of these you make the better you get at it. Heck I did it for my exterior brick since I was not happy with what was in library. Went outside and took a good picture

Dims you have if you look close at what arrows point to are normally the STUDs not the interior or exterior surfaces. So if the dims you are looking at on paper plan are from interioryou need to subtract sheetrock thickness times 2. The dims under room are from interior surface and well not meant for building from but just to give an idea since it shows MAX dims which if you have a dogleg in room makes it funky

Lot easier to do 2 plans

what software version do you have?

It depends on gate design and hardware chosen for latch. If latch sticks out past door the it would hit that wallprior to closing so you would narrow gate width and maybe add a block behind the latch catch on wall. I have seen it done many ways and all depends on hardware. Now in HD would add jamb made from 2x4 pressure treated.

Should be - have you tried to create a new WALL TYPE Check the help on WALL TYPEs. This is where you start with outer most wall layer and work you way inside until inner most layer such as Sheetrock. Can also have AIR GAPS and you get to adjust thickness of every layer. So maybe one way to make this wall is to start with outer layer: EXTERIOR 1 - Vertical metal siding and thickness would be roughly - 1.25" thick to account for ridges 2- Air Gap space for pole barn columns and horizontal members - I dunno 6" (check with pole barn design) 3- Air Gap space between stud wall and steel - 1" 4 - Foam board for thermal break - 1/2" 5 - House wrap -0 MAIN LAYER 6 - Stud wall with insulation - 3.5" or 5.5" - INTERIOR 7- Sheetrock - 1/2" Not hard you just have to find the screen. one way is draw a wall then click on it to open edit dialogue. Then go to WALL TYPE TAB and click EDIT or NEW

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