y-g-m-n

when they make the forms they use a 2x6 and lay flat to create the brick ledge which is 5.5" wide.. Much cheaper then ripping them to make it thin But wall layers should be brick = 3.5" Air Gap= Min 1.5" Sheathing = ~1/2" (15/32" plywood or 7/16" OSB) ----- Brick Ledge Edge ------ Stud = 3.5" Sheet Rock = 1/2" So stuff on brick ledge side = 3.5+1.5+.5 = 5.5" Just adjust your air gap to create wall thickness to match so your plans match. Around here, some builders putting up 1/2" foam board to sheathing and taping joints so air gap goes back to 1" - $$$ but helps with Thermal break and insulation

yeah subscriptions sux I am just gonna use the 2025 HDPRO I have and live with it for my hobby fun and home upgrades. Plenty of threads on no one liking the new business model.

yup basic does not have custom ceiling planes Pro does.

How did you make the vaulted ceiling? Ceiling plane or UNchecked Flat Ceiling? Try ceiling plane as you can force it to do what you want.

called BOARD & BATTEN. JAmes Hardie has some simulated and I remember seeing it in the default siding library.

from my look you do not have walls for the roof to rest on so program freaks out as it wants the roofs to sit on wall. Make walls and set them to be railings For Side walls - Open them in the edit dialogue: ON rail Page: set the railing to OPEN Set posts to POST to BEAM Define start and end post as you wish either half, full or auto - I suggest FULL for your plan as out in the open Their is a tab for manually defining beam dims later ON NEWEL/BALUSTERS page Set dims for posts Width (think wall width) Max spacing 10ft or whatever you want (set it so just bit more then what you have now) for type either Square or choose one in from your library For front and end walls do the same except change post spacing to bit more then width of pavilion. So after walls then it will make a room - Choose Patio or similar. Define room in more detail. Set foundation monolithic slab 4" thick then have it BUILD FOUNDATION. Now you have foundation and walls. GO to default settings for framing and set first floor ceiling framing to what you are using for JOISTS and spacing. Set roof pitch define rafters dims and spacing. Auto create roof. Adjust if needed but for this simple roof should be fine. Build Framing and modify framing to suit. You issue is you do not have a room

maybe not available anymore from GE....

best advice I received a long time ago when I was given new software. PLAY WITH IT .... eventually you will figure it out and use the help button...

first: curved roofs not exactly done in HD - only CA. for roofs make sure you have your defaults set to what you want. Then go over each exterior walls to set how you want the roof to be over that wall - Gable or Hip etc. Set slopes. - Want two slopes - set those variables. Make sure each room has proper settings for roof over or not. Alot of that can be preset when you set defaults before making floor plan Then I build roof... and if I find something not to my liking I will manually edit those roof planes.

delete all roof planes and see if it goes away.. if so then yes a roof plane that extends to give you eaves and not tie into whatever is over carport. got 3d view with roof?

uh----- whats that mean?

No reason to have in floor plan. Create a window and door list

you need different molding choice that has a top and has flat vertical surface on back wall side. Stock choices kinda crappy IMO. The content library has Windsor One Moldings which has some good choices for lintels

what year software? Shingles are under main library ROOFING and then manufacturers if yo go download from their site (might have to pay unless you have 2026 subscription based.)

PS you should install tile on walls as custom backsplash not molding.

Ditto to above. molding is meant for those cross section shapes in library to be "Extruded" around room.

well what fixed it? Curious peeps wanna know

can you post picture of PLAN with CROSS SECTION Camera location/lines

it is a WIN safety thing. might need to lower your security settings to allow you to download but it looks like it downloaded and is just giving you warning about opening it. what comes up when you click SEE MORE? If it downloaded click the download arrow button and OPEN FOLDER for downloads. then you can RUN/open file by right clicking on it and hit RUN AS ADMIN.. BUT make sure you trust it else an EXE file is an executable which if written by BAD guys can kill your computer or give you virus etc.

have you checked for each door/opening under the FRAMING tab what the headers are set at? Why would you set them @ 3.5" Depth (height) or width? for a load bearing wall the depth depends on the opening free span and if your door width is less than or equal to 49" you should get 3.5" which i see it drawn in your framing picture. But you want to leave that default table set as when you purchased software as it pretty much goes by the Lumber tables for header sizing. Remember headers are for Doors, windows and any other wall opening and meant for load bearing walls but framing crews will fit them on all wall openings even those not load bearing since it is just what they do and know and play it safe for little money. you would not want a 2x4 going across an opening of 10ft with a hip roof load on top....

Pro 7? never heard of that version Latest is subscription based titled HD 2026 one before that was HD 2025 etc based on year it. OR do you mean Chief Architect X17?

or make each step from a SLAB. SO first on on terrain then stack them on top and located. PS it is good to have top step (LANDING) be 4ft out from edge of door opening. This allows people room to stand and open door and other safe things.

me I would not worry about framing around the door and just stick in a door into your ICF wall... MAke it look pretty in 3d.... for the wife or whoever you are making this for. IF you need site detailed drawing - well then I would use something else... HD is not perfect nor can do everything - for that you need the pricey CA.

maybe try Play & adjusting variables in the: JAMB, CASING, LINTEL, ROUGH OPENING and FRAMING sections in the door edit screen until you get what you want - lots of ways to cheat here knowing what each does. under framing you set header size or go to default and how it is built along with side framing of jack and king studs sies and qty etc, As always have the help scree open so it can help you - very powerful tool the help screen Then use a stock door so you can set width and all the other variables like the arch at the top. If all that does not work - maybe first set in a door opening to dims of cutout and turn off all the trim (casing, jamb & lintal.) Turn off framing etc. Then see if you can add door inside? Never done this so I would just have to play with the tools ya got.

So they framed inside an opening for the door? I am guessing the outside stucco material lines up. Does the inside sheetrock or is the door framed opening inset? When it is all finished what will be different there? I mean if nothing then just stick your door in the main wall and forget about this framing.