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I think it is nature of the software since t does not know which one you want to stick thru to other side of door. As some tile guys use that marble threshold or maybe a piece of wood trim. They need an option under door edit screen to say where flooring meet. Something like, Interior door edge, Middle door, Exterior door. Then define threashold where it is material and how wide do you want it and how high above floor.

OR create new one based off old one. but for texture take picture and edit it and clean up and use that in material definition. I do that all the time to show the wife what the FLOOR will look like by using web pictures of chosen tile. Same thing for some siding I put on fireplace - Home Depot has some good picture. And the more of these you make the better you get at it. Heck I did it for my exterior brick since I was not happy with what was in library. Went outside and took a good picture

Dims you have if you look close at what arrows point to are normally the STUDs not the interior or exterior surfaces. So if the dims you are looking at on paper plan are from interioryou need to subtract sheetrock thickness times 2. The dims under room are from interior surface and well not meant for building from but just to give an idea since it shows MAX dims which if you have a dogleg in room makes it funky

Lot easier to do 2 plans

what software version do you have?

It depends on gate design and hardware chosen for latch. If latch sticks out past door the it would hit that wallprior to closing so you would narrow gate width and maybe add a block behind the latch catch on wall. I have seen it done many ways and all depends on hardware. Now in HD would add jamb made from 2x4 pressure treated.

Should be - have you tried to create a new WALL TYPE Check the help on WALL TYPEs. This is where you start with outer most wall layer and work you way inside until inner most layer such as Sheetrock. Can also have AIR GAPS and you get to adjust thickness of every layer. So maybe one way to make this wall is to start with outer layer: EXTERIOR 1 - Vertical metal siding and thickness would be roughly - 1.25" thick to account for ridges 2- Air Gap space for pole barn columns and horizontal members - I dunno 6" (check with pole barn design) 3- Air Gap space between stud wall and steel - 1" 4 - Foam board for thermal break - 1/2" 5 - House wrap -0 MAIN LAYER 6 - Stud wall with insulation - 3.5" or 5.5" - INTERIOR 7- Sheetrock - 1/2" Not hard you just have to find the screen. one way is draw a wall then click on it to open edit dialogue. Then go to WALL TYPE TAB and click EDIT or NEW

What is budget? I mean jam it full of: Motherboard & Processor Chip HD Size memory video card model & Memory LARGE 17" screen else get you a docking station with 1-2 monitors in the 20's or larger as furniture can hold I went to cyberpower PC as best deal when I needed new laptop They make gaming computers and have many choices So they easily have something for any budget. Also you can customize about everything in it so you get what you want. And tons of these options have special offers, prices etc so you can get a 2TB drive for price of 1TB as exmple

post plan file

is 30x48 even a paper size? Engineers like ANSI size paper: I know 34x44 is ANSI E size which is great because when printed it can be folded up to an A size 8.5x11 Architects for some reason like bigger paper 36x48 is ARCH E 30x42 is some new ARCH E1 size. yeah I know no help sorry but I am curious your paper size is different.

pro has staggered studs for some reason under STRUCTURE tab when you select and open a wall to edit.. Hit HELP for way more info on how it works. Also go to wall definitions and adding wall layers etc to suit what you want. There really is a ton of info for software under help.. hard part is finding which command to get help with Hence why I tell people play around before going straight into modeling your first project. you need to learn software

highlight one of those rooms. Click EDIT or open go to STRUCTURE tab Click help button lower right Read help about ceiling - especially SHELF CEILING I mean the help for Shelf screen explains you issue to the T From the help screen on SHELF CEILINGS

in your picture you show a GABLE end over the one end I can see. That changes ridge length since it goes all the way to this Gable end over wall. your model does not have gable end any where. You have hip roof over the 4 walls. The roof ends up being the roof based on: Exterior Wall locations Wall Height Roof Pitch (slope) Overhand from exterior walls both for hip and gable style roofs. There are more but these are the basics. so draw your house plan get it right then choose which walls are gable and hip, check your room ceiling height as it sets wall height. then make the roof. Worrying about Ridge length is not the way to go about this. Maybe this is a language translation thing?

change overhang for those walls then rebuild roof. In effect that is what you are doing if you keep roof plane slope. Or do want different roof plane slopes? Kinda confusing what you want as extending ridge has to be accounted for somehow.

yes you can use things pretty much anywhere is what I learned by playing around.

how are you puting the tile into the model? Have you tried custom backsplash which has editable thickness?

what floor level is tha screen shot taken from? DO you have show ceilings on in the display layer tool?

I played with it. What I did was add more elevation lines above this wall you want to ensure terrain remains So 120" on top edge of LOT and added them in every 2' elevation based on removing that wall of yours and having a nice uniform slope. Then I added your wall back as best as I could. But on the top side I put elevation line of what it roughly was before wall was there so I think I drew wall right ovcer the 6" elevation line and put that for elevtion line on top. ON bottm side of this wal lI added elevation line of 0.0 and made it a bit wider then garage and then added extended them vertically down along side of garage. See when you select the flat pad for foundation it does it for the house slab not other buildings I have found. So there are other ways you could make a FLAT AREA with 0 elevation around garage and then ensure you have enough elevation lines to define slope. 2 is not enough and the more the merrier as program interporlates between 2 lines and terrain item to try and figure out what the terrain would look like. So the only way to really ensure accuracy is draw in a bunch of elevation lines you know are accurate. Anyways play with what did. below 548429131_BackPatio.pdf 548429131_BackPatio.plan PS your garage roof is out of whack in that the ridge is not centered with building and the house wall is a tad higher than other hip side.

Have you tried Custom Countertop.? If not just use the SHELF command under cabinets and size and locate where you want. Ensure you change thickness to whatever countertop material you will be using as today they come in many thicknesses. then change material to your fave countertop material

can you show above screen shot but scroll up to where cabinets are listed?

If you hired Architect might be better to just send your plan view ON PAPER with dimensions and some elevation views of your desired look. That way they can confirm things can be built to what you want. If you send him a file and he uses it and it has errors that are not easy to see well the foundation and/or framing crew will find them for sure and you do not want that. EDIT was to add on paper meant for you to print the plan view

you can always use railing to define an exterior PORCH "ROOM". SO add in railing walls to define a porch space that lines up with existing exterior walls. Then you need to edit this railing wall by drawing and then clicking OPEN to EDIT. GO to RAILING TAB Set Railing to OPEN set NEWEL/POSTS to be POST TO BEAM Set START & END posts how you want them for each porch "wall" so against house you may want NO POST or HALF or FULL your choice. Next to the NEWEL/BALUSTERS tab here you pick your COLUMN and set Dims in plan view, offset from Wall & spacing max NEXT to RAILS tab Here you can set dims of beam and its offset. Then if you enclose the space with these walls attached to house exterior walls you created a new room. OPEN room and set floor height and roof type etc. Then roof should be fine if you auto rebuild. TIP: When drawing set wall type to be whatever your external wall is - it will not use this wall but in plan view it uses it so you can ensure you line up the FAKE studs with your normal cabin external walls so the roof draws properly since roofs are done from the "MAIN LAYER" outer edge of upper most top plate outer corner. so you want them to be colinear and same height. PLAY with it and practice and it will come to you once you see what changing something in those EDIT screens does. I find railing pretty powerful since you can make solid panels for glass walls in showers that do not go to ceiling etc.

Did not think you were allowed to move stuff while in layout which is a drawing on titleblock.

but if against the wall then it does not overhange. just like it does not overhang on the side when 2 or more cabinets screwed together. Only overhangs when it can into open space.

they have manual dims.. in 2024.. I always use it to locate items in plan. what you want is AUTO dims turned off in the display list