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OMG many ways to do this: click on wall and open the edit dialogue for it. First page check box for INVISIBLE Click on wall to highlight. Select Hidden icon thingy at bottom of page which is a slab looking white wall outlined by HIDDEN dashed line. All above covered under INVISIBLE WALL in help screen Easy way to get there would be to select wall and open edit dialogue scree and then hit HELP button lower right and it will tell you what everything does and lo an behold it tells you what invisible wall is.

If you want that tobe 12" overhand open up each cabinet and set overhang to what you want for each side of cabinet. Industry norm seems to be 1" overhang front and 1/2" sides but make it what ya want. easy peasy

Need file to see what you have entered for terrain contours, points etc that define terrain elevations. Have you rebuilt terrain? few tricks on there with some terrain features if you check manual and help screen.

I know when you have a SLAB foundation and have brick veneer exterior walls the program (2024) will make a BRICK ledge but you have no control over depth nor width.

but you could manually edit those roof planes to what you like in HDPRO

didyou draw them as PONY walls? Where bottom is one type of exterior and the op is another based on dim you enter for rail hieght?

my thread in the suggestion section:

try using custom back splash or 3d rectangle object or soffit or terrain curb or many various things... choose one you like to work with.. but stick it to outside of foundation with thickness that represents the stone veneer you want to apply and then change material to stone you like.

have floor plan? Are these walls colinear? Clicking on the wall "grips" (AUTOCAD TERM) and oving them is not the best way to maniupulate walls. Wall height is based on interior room ceiling and structural defaults. Having proper gable ends and wall design will ensure the gable end matches wall below and drawing in correctly. Attic walls are difficult to work with as they have specific job of filling vertical space between a floor and roof where program thinks they are needed. How did you do the roofs Manually or auto? What is end result you are looking for? Stone veneer for gable, pony wall to left of gable with same stone veneer? Also you may have SELECT ROOM first in 3D views as a default setting so it is selecting room not the wall. PLan would really help.

in lieu of shelves and partitions. Just use a cabinet either full height or base or wall that suits. locate and then open editing dialogue for it. under box construction Decide cabinet type (face frame or frameless (which is like what you are drawing with partitions) Go to FRONT page. And edit it by removing doors then you have open cabinet with shelves. You can let it auto space shelves or in OPENING part manually edit shelves. now for your crown issue if you size a full cabinet or locate a wall cabinet so the top is at your ceiling height then the room crown will STOP and "be cut" at sides of cabinet box. If you want Crown to go around cabinet then go to cabinet molding page and add it so it lines up with room crown. Remember with crown though think how it attaches to cabinet box - need some flat surface and place to nail it on. no sense designing something that cannot be made. Play with cabinets as you can do many things if you get creative knowing what each menu page has on it and what it does,

little more info please. Wall shape? what do you mean? and why?

hard to see your screenshot but what is your MAIN LAYER? For USA where majority of houses made from wood framing (vertical studs, top & bottom Plates): majority HDPRO included wall types use the STUD layer as the main layer and is what dims are pulled from since well that is what the framers need build a house. Does not dimension from sheet rock or exterior brick veneer since they are attached to studs based on wall definition. I.e. Interior sheetrock direct to studs. Exterior brick holds the define air gap (varies here 1/2" to 2" range). So in your example with interior and exterior brick w/o studs the software does not know what to pull dims from, Also you just have a free standing wall without forming an enclosed room. Enclose the room and then check dims. As always you can make manual dims and then edit the end points of manual dims are pulled from. Again, ya gotta play with software to understand how it works.

click on fence to highlight. Then click on the reverse layer command... this will nmove rails to opposite side for gate: open gate's object dialogue which is really just a DOOR dialogue. click reverse interior/exterior

might help if you insert your plan to the post so people can play with it to see whats up

different floor heights and ceiling heights and multiple floors makes for a difficult project. Remember heights are set from First floor elevation which is the zero. Lowering some rooms is ok and done in the room dialogue. Having software build your foundation tends to be best as long as you ensure specs in the dialogue are what you want. As said above - to learn one has to play with it. Try creating a 2 room house with each have different floor elevations. again but different ceiling heights. Mybe again to see what options you have for roof generation. Play with foundation variables so you understand what they do. Create a copy of your existing plan and play with things until you get what you want so you do not ruin original file. Once you figure it out then apply to original file and save and on to the next task... After a while this all becomes second nature. There are many ways to do many things and when you find a way that works for you. To learn this software, you have to play with it and create different designs to learn it. I find the HELP to be a tremendous resource as it explains a lot. Also have some knowledge on houses are built also helps a bunch so you know what is possible or not and what is required from say a structural point of view. I have seen some designs which are impossible to build yet look nice. Creating a model of existing can be a PAIN but if you design it like it was built tends to be easier; especially when a house has had multiple editions added over the years or very old and made from obsolete material or methods. Then you have to cheat your plan so it is accurate for what you need but may not indiicate how it was built. Good luck and play with it. .

I didnt mean they do not work with those tools they just do not work well if our light is not symmetrical. have a pot light? click it do you get any temp dims to locate it from a wall or something? Or from then next pot light in say a row? Hey tel me how far is that pot light from the side wall and end wall? Have to use tape measure as selecting it does not show any temp dims. So in your case you had to locate the first before you can use the replicate thingy. example: see attached ceiling light I selected and no temp dims to locate so yeah I have to center it with room and all. 2nd pic is of a landscape SEASIDE PATH LIGHT that has been selected no temp dims and the center point is the center of OA width which is worthless since should b center of spike or light bulb something when installing you can measure or check and means something. So centering etc are based on this center point which is not easy to find in real life due to light. Heck temp dims to edges would suffice but now with electrical stuff.. I can locate everything else in the library (that I have played with which is a bunch) except electrical things require you to add manual dims. Light switch try to locate 4" from a door what a PIA as thing jumps around goes to other side of wall sometimes just real messy versus other objects that are on walls. Dimensioning outlets and switches is a pain not on mine I have to bust out the tape measure. I have tried the replicate thing and I guess I am too use to AUTOCAD and Solidworks and I mess it all up and takes me too long to figure out each time I want to use it. Same thing with OFFSET (offset should just be a command and not some weird way it is in HD so I just draw poly lines where I want lights and such and then insert and locate centers on the cross points. Or I will insert Ceiling J-Boxes at these points so I can change lights out easy enough and keep their locating point.

When I mess with my exterior lights and get them how I want them in the 3D perspective view using STANDARD view I can get them to work as I want. MAnual based on LIGHT SETTINGS. Then I switch to PHYSICAL viewing and some of them turn off even though they are on. I try turning them off and on - nope. Go back ito adjust lights and cehck everything is correct (it is) and click update just in case and close out by hitting DONE. and physical view remains as before with some lights off. TRy it w/ automatic with more lights on then I have and no change. Move camera viewpoint - No change.. Nothing works = seems like a glitch.

I use these 3 commands /buttons a lot: See screen shot attached: #1 is the PERP or PARALLEL button. Select object you want to rotate to be Perp or Parall and then click on #1 button. You then find object you want to align it TOO and depending on how you move your mouse you will see and AXIS line to denote how it will roatte it when you click again. so by moving mouse little you can get PERP or PAR. #2 is CENTERED. Similar procedure but it will aalign object to be centered with what you select the mouse with - it does show you axis it will center on since it gives everything 2 axis in plan view (X and Y) #3 is Mirror. SO it mirros object based on same thing what object you hover over and the axis line it shows. I suggest playing with each as these 3 are probably the 3 best commands they have for placing objects ina plan. DO note though for some reason ELECTRICAL items do not like these 3 commands and still difficult to align pot lights. Best way for pot lights is to draw lines where you want them to be and located them on the line. For spacing on this line again draw cross lines so you create intersections for location This brings up a Suggestion to HD software coders: everything but electric brings up temp dims to help locate them by edges why not LIGHTS? let me locate the CENTER of the light so I can locate Junction boxes currently have to be done by inserting manual dims and then it is a pain - like no one likes the electrician.

thanks, can you describe differences between them? I see width and radii etc. but are these based on some local supply house stock or made up completely by you?

did you look at terrain specification?

Draw Main house first. under terrain spec is a dialogue about a pad for house that is level and how high subfloor is above surround terrain. This main house FLOOR level becomes the ZERO for everything's Z axis aka vertical. Some threads on here about adding second buildings and I think they stated draw that in another file and then import it and place.. or something like that. Search and read some of those good answers if memory serves as I used them as I have a detached Car Barn and its slab is about 2" lower then house. I do not know elevations, slab heights, floor heights should be simple but sometimes the AUTOMATIC parts of the software fight you. Specially if you have brick house that has brick ledge since you have no control over that.

you can do that on any terrain feature. All they did was add a terrain feature on top of a road but it could be a driveway or a slab or a flower bed.

I have looked in library I am using CAMPAGNE panels: But I increased height to 48" to match what I have Closest to a Gothic Picket we used: Where is matching gate in the main gate library? I looked in bonus library and lots of NON Matching Gates - Heck no matching panels for these gates either. The PICKET gate is probably best choice but looks like crap since boards are different and picket spacing is different. Notice how wide the pickets are on the gate versus fence - just looks bad. I have tried to make it look better with other gates and cheats and well, what you see is where I am at. Issue is gate is wide and those in the library do not take kindly to being made skinny or wide as program just stretches and squeezes the gate to suit width listed. Wrong pickets and spacing when I have it drawn to width they have for it. Wish program was smart enough to figure out how many pickets were required based on picket width and desired gap between boards. So the library gates only look good when you use them at their drawn width - which you do not know and may not suit the plan. Just seems the landscape design portion of Home Designer was an after thought even though they market it for landscape design. Decks are similarly clumsy to design unless very basic, Would be cool if you could make a Door/gate that used the wall/fence material if you did not select anything. I think hidden doors (think Oval office) that are mase to look like walls would be interesting and then would work for gates on fences too. only thing I notice is picket spacing as program just squeezes or stretches pickets to suit width of panel between posts so never looks right unless you guess what they drew it for. Again a way to make my own fence with individual boards would be great especially for estimating since it would give me a good picket count. So now I am having to use other 3d software, autocad/Solidworks/Sketchup etc to design my stuff and then import as library items I need - Real PIA.

Why is it there are some standard Fence panels but no matching gates? Where is the proverbial American WHITE PICKET FENCE and matching gate Opie can walk thru? they have only one with some funky top detail; but it is a panel so it is what it is an you cannot TWEAK it. Also the included rails are some funky size lumber and cannot be adjusted or moved. For landscape design a powerful fence tool would be handy to calc a lumber buy list if the dayum thing was accurate and let me design the fence I want to build. Maybe 6ft privacy with overlap fence boards or spaced with 1/4" gap or 3.5" gaps. Maybe I want 3 rails, bottom 12 inch from terrain, top is 5ft above highest ground point & middle rail 36" Or maybe I want rail on front or back or between posts. Maybe top rail is a 2x4 on side and with another on top on flat for Tee section or ELL section with 1x4 on back. Create a new setup screen Manu box thingy for fences. Base it off of wall menu thingy but include where we can define a custom fence in lieu of using library "PANELS" Let me have some choices for Balusters but call it PICKETS. then have library of them. Rails are like you allow now but make it easier to manipulate them and include the middle rail - Which I still have not figured out how. Define offsets better by adding the FROM box with vert options like others, from terrain or floor or Absolute etc. Horizontal offset should be from Post exterior surface maybe. with option for centered. Post spacing you have but add picket spacing by defining the gap between and gap to terrain and elevation of top or board length so one has choice for crazy ground with many undulations. Just a little tweaking and landscape designing became way easier and better. I mean it would be nice to be able to draw proper fence and then dimension details for fence contractor so they know what to build. Next up would be hardscape, pavers and block/stone/boulder fences. I see where Site says use it for landscape design but really, not a lot of tools for landscape design more just to make a pretty rendering. OK Rant off.

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