Rookie65

You can send multiple plans to a single layout sheet, depending on the size sheet you use.

Draw an as is plan, then copy it and make a proposed plan. Walls being removed can just be made invisible. Depending on how big an area it is, they both might fit on one sheet. Delete the as built window on the as is plan and make it a door on the proposed. It's not a difficult process.

I have a bunch of different wall types saved in my master file that I start all of my plans with. Just pick a wall type, copy it, rename it, and change the fill type of the framing to identify each type. For closed openings, I'll draw a CAD block and trace the opening, delete what was there, and use the angle hatch fill style

Did you check the bonus catalogs?

Manually draw the roofs with the fascia's at the same heights. Going by your picture, your ridges are 2 different heights. Change the pitch for each roof.

Manual roofs - check "roof above this room", and uncheck "flat ceiling over this room" for the 2 rooms. You'll probably need to draw a wall in the attic where the 2 roofs intersect under the higher roof.

If Architectural allows you to create floor trusses

One way to do it would be to draw the entire driveway area. Then use the break tool to create sections that can be changed as needed. Then you use the line/arch function to create the curves. Once that's done, to make the circle, you can use a "circle about center" CAD object. Put it where you want it, Then go to the "convert selected object" tool to make it a terrain object. You may need to make it just 1/16" thicker than the driveway so it shows. Change the material lo your terrain type, and that should do it. Also, please fill out your signature so we always know which version and year of the program you are using.

Exterior walls go on the exteriors and interior go on the interior. Create an interior wall type of block and try that. Make sure that the wall is set to define rooms. Can always try reading the help or reference manual as well. Please try shortening the title of your post too. No one wants to read a novel.

I didn't download the plan, yet a simple way to do it is to send the plan to the layout sheet, then manually drag in the edges of the view to get it to fit. There are no "lightning bolt" break lines, yet you can draw them in with CAD lines as you wish. Might want to save the plan under a different name before you draw them on, so they'll be on a separate plan and you won't have to draw them again.

Did you see the reply I posted to your original inquiry under tips and techniques?

Which program and year are you using? It is helpful to everyone for you to complete your signature. Is the structure a slab on grade, or have wood joists? Your 1st floor should be at elevation "0". From there you you can lower the door bottom in the door drop down edit box. Without having the plan to view, it's guessing. It's better to set items from the plan view so they will stay when you rebuild floors, etc. Also, please post future questions in the "Q&A" section. More people will see it there. Tips and Techniques is where you post things you've learned,

You could do this a couple of ways. Make the carport a patio with a roof and ceiling above. Make the 2 parallel railings invisible and the end one post to beam. No railings, just posts. Change the size of the posts and beam to what you need. Make the ceiling height the same as the house so the roof extends at the same height

What year and version of home designer are you using?

Maybe you should post this in the "Technical Support" section?

My suggestion is to slide the stairs to the left, into the corner where the utility and living room meet. Get rid of the doors that go into the utility and en-suite on that wall side. Depending on your rise/run of the stairs, you may be able to add a step to the lower section, and delete from the upper section to keep it from extending beyond the 2nd floor wall on the bedroom side of the en-suite. Could possibly narrow the entry way into the living room to pick up some stair room. Both hallways have a lot of extra space that could be better utilized with expanded rooms. Just my 2 cents on it. Please fill out your signature so we all know which version and year of the software you are using.

Two things come to mind: Please read the reference manual on how to create your signature so you don't have to write your program version each time. Learning to use your reference manual will save you time waiting for people to reply to your questions. If you understand how the program works and the tools built into it, you'll find things will make more sense. A hint for this issue is if you have auto rebuild on in the deck, look at the room structure tab. If your main floor is at "0", then setting the structure to "-6" will drop the deck down 6"

Jo_Ann gave you the answer, yet you were so focused on telling everyone she hurt your feelings that you missed it. This is definitely not a dormer. Try using the deck railing, yet call the room a patio with a roof, no ceiling above. That should put your patio on grade. Then select the railing, set style as post to beam on the sides and invisible on the front railing. Change your newel post and beam (under rails) to the size you want. If you have auto build roof on, it may give you the look you want. Or read the reference guide about manual roof if need be. Check the fascia height to match them if it doesn't align then automatically. The reference guide will also help you with completing your signature, and many other things. Then you won't have to wait for someone to help you with each question. Good luck!

You could do the entire floor in the border material. Then transform/replicate the floor 1/16" on the "Z" Axis and resize it by a certain percentage. Set your margins off the walls, fixtures, etc. and change the material to what you want it to be

You can click on them and move them around the layout page to where you want them

I don't know if 2024 has it, or which version you are using, yet in HD Pro 2025, go to defaults>text, callouts and markers>text styles>room label styles. In there is a spot to make it transparent.

My guess is that the slab is set at "0" for the floor height. If the deck is 24" above the slab, then the door should be raised about 24". Once you have that right, set the top of the window at the same height of the door.

You can import a PDF, scale it, trace it, then draw in your remodel. That's a short answer with the information you shared

That's why I suggested that and not just a vertical cylinder

Did you try to get creative on your own with anything? Maybe a puck light and make it very small and turn the light off?