Kbird1

I would appreciate it if you find out more if you could update this thread as I'm in the same boat as you , but had assumed that if you had any previous version ( not listed) you got the lessor of whatever rebates are available. It is a pity they don't have a program for Pro Users like they do for Chief with monthly payments ala SSA or the Rent to Own Program. M.

Are you saying you got it to work ? if so what settings did you use? Not sure what you mean by vertical truss but HD already uses I-joists if you set the framing in the Floor structure up that way. Are you referring to seismic strapping? Mick.

Did you try the inbuilt "Save to PDF" to see what size the file is? maybe they fixed it? but I saw reports of files sizes of 80mb on Chieftalk , to0 big to email and in some cases Print on a printer , one User is (was?) transferring files back to his old PC via network or USB Key to Print or Email.

You posted in Off Topic section as well , my guess was it is a videocard issue ,this is sometimes an issue on computers with intergrated videocards such as laptops ,make sure you meet the system requirements and your videocard has it's latest drivers https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/413-3d-views/

After reading David's comment about past versions working , I thought I'd give it a quick try since I use Pro10 , though I don't ever remember being able to set two wall layers as a "Main Layer" , and I'm not sure how that would work actually since everything to do with Walls is based around the Main Layer , eg how they join, how they align above and below, how dimensions work etc etc. Setting up a wall same as yours with a 5" air gap between the 2x6 and 2x4 wall layers was no problem, and it draws just fine in plan view but to my surprise when going to the 3D Framing overview it shows nothing for the inner wall at all. Weirder still is in dollhouse view the inner wall is drawn (sorta correctly as solid fir not studs) but the exterior wall has only siding and OSB no Framing. Only way I could get it to work was to redefine the exterior wall by removing the 2x4 layer and drywall but leaving the airgap , and then drawing a redefined interior wall with drywall only on one side. Leaving the AirGap on the Exterior wall allows you to bump the Int. 2x4 wall up against it for exact spacing. the Int. Wall will still try to join the main layer of the exterior wall , but once you go around a corner , it is easy to select the wall and pull it back so it joins with the interior wall instead. See David's video link below showing this method if this explanation isn't clear enough.

Chief/HD apparently calls these walls Marriage Walls though I have never heard the term , there is a Tut. for Chief but Chief has an option for double walls on the Wall DBX unlike Pro , though I think you probably just have something defined incorrectly. http://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00925/

Did you rebuild the framing after defining the new wall type ? It appears from the Definition Tab pic that the main layer is 5" thick, which should be an Air Gap Material ,but I cant tell from pic if the Air Gap is selected , though I see Fir studs on 24" centres ? have you defined the Main Layer as as the Gap between the walls so they join correctly or for some other reason? Mick.

I don't know anything about YTD or how it works sorry , you might need to email Tech Support/customer care...

you video link is working for me both above and on youtube direct. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQFZupb77lc

The blue in your Roof pic looks identical to the same colour on my Monitor in HD Pro 2015 and that would be expected as my monitors are colour matched using an iDisplay Monitor Calibration Device so my guess would be that the Brightness on you new monitor is way to high ( not unusual for new monitors) and possibly the Contrast is set incorrectly too ie too low. Gamma maybe wrong too but less likely The colour in the pic will read correctly for me as it is read digitally , the problem is in how your monitor is interpreting the colour information at the moment is my guess , but 1st off turn the brightness down to 65% and contrast up to 95% to help saturate colours. then play around till you see what you like. If you know a keen photographer, they may have a colour calibration device like mine for setting their monitor's before proofing photos , that would help or suggest Acer brings one with them to test with There are online test webpages and programs to download to you can use and get pretty close too , have a look here: http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/">http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/ http://www.imaging-resource.com/ARTS/MONCAL/CALIBRATE.HTM">http://www.imaging-resource.com/ARTS/MONCAL/CALIBRATE.HTM http://www.flatpanelshd.com/focus.php?subaction=showfull&id=1229341512">http://www.flatpanelshd.com/focus.php?subaction=showfull&id=1229341512 http://www.drycreekphoto.com/Learn/monitor_calibration.htm http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/5-online-tools-calibrate-monitor/

As far as I know that menu always defaults back to Mouse Orbit , best idea would be to email support and ask , however if you draw your full camera carefully extending the camera line to the 3d Point you want you get the same effect using mouse orbit , which is what I do usually , if I want to spin around the model. M.

Have you downloaded the Core Content? yes? then open the library and search Fan , eg : there are 10 or more ceiling fans some with lights in Core catalogs>MEP>Elec.>Fans and Exhaust>ceiling Fans Not sure which video you mean ? what web page is the link on?

this is the Chief Rent to Own Page , I don't work for Chief BTW , I'm just a User like you..... http://www.chiefarchitect.com/software-rental/

Snipit doesn't have text input but is faster than saving image , opening paint, adding text , resaving and them posting and it's free with win7 , just discovered it in Accessories a month or two back. You may need to mess with the inset depth as well as the sash depth if you are talking about centering the glass in plan view , ie the double black line in a window which is actually the sash I believe, and you need to be aware in an internal wall which side of the wall is considered the "exterior" ie where the measurements are taken from

I don't use it but it sounds like you want the "3D Center Camera on Point" view ( same menu as mouse -orbit, mouse-pan etc) click the view then use the mouse to place the point where you want it , eg center of Ridge , then use the mouse or arrow keys to spin the model depending on how you have arrow keys and mouse setup on the 3D Menu. Mick.

although not OSX specific as CutePDF is Windows only even if you do a custom install and uncheck everything it still installs Comodo WebBrowser, hence I went back to PDF995 ,unfortunately PDF995 is Windows only too. however this one is free ,still watch for bloatware though. http://sourceforge.net/projects/pdfwriterformac/files/

I too "Print" to PDF 1st ,using PDF995 but as far as I know neither PDF995 or CutePDF work with Mac OS and although 2015 titles have a native "save to PDF" option , I think I read on the Chief Architect Forum that the MAC version of the software produces huge PDF files as there is an issue with the Mac PDF addon Chief is using apparently and it still hasn't been fixed. So you may need to find a Mac compatible PDF Print Driver to try instead as the Files from the Native "Save to PDF" maybe too large to email depending on Plan size. As a Professional Designer did you consider Chief instead ? Did you realise you can now Rent To Own Chief at $US200 month till it is paid off ? ( you get a full rebate for Pro if you upgrade to Chief BTW) Mick.

I am a bit surprised , not an old house since it uses I-joists , so not sure how it passed code....someone knows the building inspector well or you don't have one Your plan is mostly there by the look of it , and you have all the measurements so I would start new and draw the ground floor exterior walls and set the room height as needed , then set the Foundation defaults ,with a Stem wall that gets you a 105" basement ceiling (it should tell you on the right side that) , then build the foundation on level 0 ,which should make things work out easier especially if you plan to model the walkout basement and Terrain later. Depending on what details you need and what you want to model ( eg walkout) you could just delete the upper floors and copy/paste>hold position the stairs to the basement from level 1 , just not sure you wont run into other peculiarities. David didn't try connecting that wall you had issues with but I saw the same issue in 2015 Trial ,but am uncertain why it was occurring , however like David deleting those walls and redrawing it corrected the issue. because of the landing and the sloped solid rail you will need to break the walls at the landing line and make them walls (uncheck railing) so they go full height to the ceiling , check the other part of the wall to be a railing so it follows the stair angle if that is what you have. If you don't have the sloped railing you don't need the break or the check in the "railing" box. M.

forgot to mention this morning that all your stair risers are different and they must be the same to meet code eg bottom step and landing are 7"each ,main stairs are 7 15/16 each and the top landing to 2nd floor is something like 8 1/2 " , to make it a comfortable stair you probably need to add one tread so all steps are in the 7 1/4 to 7 1/2 " riser height. minimum tread width is 10" in most areas too. Also , some Areas don't allow doors/steps directly at the top of stairs due to the tripping hazard we usually frame narrow stairwells here 40" , so they are 39" finished after drywall as David mentioned too.

yeah haven't quite got the hang of writing with a mouse as you can tell .... I'd call the Pro 2015 upgrade minimal compared to no# of hours put it , I'd guess you have made about 1/2p per hour they are making out like

As they say " a picture says a thousand words" ......Muuuuch less guess work with pics included

David is correct ,not being able to write to the Hard-drive can be an early indicator that you have a failing hard drive ,so I wouldn't ignore it, though I'd call or email tech support too and refer them to this thread and your warning message too. M.

In Preferences > General>Folders it will show you where the files are commonly stored unless you make a Folder for each client Job in My Documents for example? the Show Button is pretty informative on all program paths too

I am unsure why the walls are turning into a room divider/ invisible wall at this point but your stairs are on the 1st floor , not in the basement and you actually have built a 4 storey house, (which is messed up-see pic) , did you try drawing the basement on level 1 when you started ? hence the concrete walls? and then add a basement/foundation after that? the basement is usually Level 0 , ground floor Level 1 etc. I can however delete the invisible wall , redraw a full length int. wall then break it with the wall break tool and make the top 1/2 as viewed into a solid rail, but didn't find a reason for the invisible wall. It maybe easier to start again depending on what you are trying to achieve. ? or delete upper floors ,change wall types on level 1 etc

if David's tips don't help post again with a copy of the plan