Kbird1

I guess you didn't notice my note in the 1st image ...you need to click the Exterior radio button for the Exterior Sill option to show so you can disable it , same idea as the on the Casing Tab. and you need to change the sash sizes ,top.bottom,sides as needed eg 1/2" (12mm) or even turn them off so 0mm or 0 inches but usually there would be a glass batten to hold the glass in the wood frame, if using Ali Shop front frames then the groove is in the Ali so you don't need the batten , so I'd use 0mm and to get the glass approx. in the middle of the wall set the sash depth to about 1/2 the wall thickness but you may need to play with it to get it exact. I hope whoever you are working so hard for on that project at least buys you and upgrade to Pro 2015 to say thanks ( ask for Chief X6 )

HDA2012, David it's in Morkas's sig. his thread from 2-3 days ago...https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/393-anomalies-in-renderings-and-other-questions/ without the plan to look at I would say either your invisible wall is in the wrong place or you have the Upper Roof Pitch set incorrectly eg at 5/12 not 10/12 on the Dormer front wall. M.

are you sure you have the "follow stairs" checkbox marked for each rail on the stairs? usually fixes it for me.... M.

"You can set the backdrop to a flat color, rather than an image" this is what I usually do for the reasons mentioned..... M.

The Fir colour maybe off due to lighting ? if find HD is pretty finicky on lighting and it can take some playing around, for interiors i'd love an option just to turn ALL lights on when needed. Andersen isn't here , they are US only I think but have a good Rep. , have had for years , I see there stuff in FHB Mag. , I thin Chief has/had a Andersen Library for some versions of the software. you could use hardiplank on the right side and use Clear cedar as a feature panel above and below the window, don't think I have pics of that though. I prefer the new look on the left but try centering the middle panel and align the panels on the gable above with them and see what you think. M.

in HD wall heights are controlled by the Roof , so follow Eric's instructions and you should get want you want, it is a simple Shed Roof structure which you can read up on in the help too or check the KB,Roof section. (see my sig) M.

Get the Reference manual linked in the help menu and save the PDF to your computer ,it cover thing in more depth and check out the Knowledgebase (KB) Tutorials too ....see my sig. Level 1 is (usually,you can change it) the fixed point at 0" and the absolute elevations are set off it . M.

under the #D menu try the "Move camera with Mouse" and "Move camera with keyboard" options if you have a programmable mouse or keyboard or gameboard like the G13 you can also program both the cameras and other shortcuts too. M.

The Overhang shown is actually 12" DJ , perhaps more though the question answered below pic says 12" ( 6" is not enough to sit under) you can use a Slab or a Soffit or even a cabinet partition set to the countertop colour to make the waterfall end Use back to back cabinets for the island and make the doors "panels" or "blank" if you don't want doors on the seat side, then you should be able to control the countertop overhang or You can also place a Slab or Soffit as Eric suggested , set to the counter colour and once you have Pro you will have custom countertops too so it wont be an issue as any shape is possible.

thanks for the tutorial Elovia , I use CAD lines a lot too but hadn't gotten around to using them for this purpose ...NICE ! Mick.

yes as far as I know that is the only way to make it reappear ...delete and start again

You can turn off the sill both on the exterior and interior and the Casing too if desired and for fixed glass you could set the depth of the sash to about 1/2 the wall thickness so the glass is approx. centered ( will take some fiddling) , you could also reduce the sash side, top bottom etc to say 1/2" (12mm) so you mostly are left with glass in the frame as seen below or even make them 0" so you get just glass in the 3/4" frame . Sill Tab on window DBX (2015 has diff. look) no sill or casing glass at 21/4 sash depth no sash

yes you should update your signature with your version as there are 5 different HD Software Titles and they all have different features The Auto stairwell tool is on the Edit ToolBar but only shows when a stairwell is 1st built , and you have selected the new stairs and once used I don't think it reappears , it is a one off tool. M.

I tried CutePDF recently , it also added the Comodo WebBrowser to my computer even though I had the "extras" unchecked in the install window , so be wary....

PDF995 has worked for me well for many years however I don't Print Models just plans and layouts ( and I use Pro10) . Just had a play around in Pro 10 and I needed to reduce the scale to 1/8=1' to fit my basic 40x30 house rectangle on 3 11x17 pages with PDF995 anything larger caused 1/2 the walls to be 1/2 off the page. sorry not much help , I think this is actually the 1st time I have ever seen a question on this topic but hopefully someone has better insights for you otherwise I'd say call Support on Monday....think they Skype too now ? M.

apparently everyone is building Cape Cod (1.5 storey) Style houses this week .... search Cape Cod on the forum and old Forum too for some good links if the Tut. above doesn't help. Though your Framing pic makes it look like you are there already ? M.

okay , thought I was missing something obvious or had a preference turned off sloped soffits are always a PITA to "play with" so was hoping for more ...

the tutorials will have an icon on them saying if they are applicable to Suite , as Suite does not have manual Roof Tools but the 1st link above will work with Suite. M.

By chance are you using the Break Wall Tool instead of the Break Line Tool ? the icon on the edit bar looks like a lightening bolt thru a line and only shows when a line is selected unlike the break wall tool which is always on the Toolbar.

You haven't updated you signature to say what version you have but there are also two tutorials in the KB that may help draw the dormers manually. http://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00367/52/Home-Designer/Roofs/Drawing-a-Shed-Dormer-Manually.html http://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00396/52/Home-Designer/Roofs/Building-a-Manual-Dormer-in-Home-Designer-Pro.html

I suppose you mean the triangle showing the front in 2D JoAnn? (turns to arrowhead if manipulated) not sure I have noticed an arrow?

I assumed you had unchecked "ceiling in this room" already you just didn't need the "use Soffit" setting too as it is usually only needed in outdoor areas. There is no issue with the auto roof rebuild correct....but if you set the ceiling to 96"? as desired instead of 36" the Roof will automatically be rebuilt at that height the next time you need to rebuild the roof, which you need to do as you need to remove the skirt roof on the deck side , which is why I told you to change that AFTER fixing the roof lines only or you will get a full height 2nd storey not the storey and 1/2 you have/want . I was/am not sure how you made the Dormers , so am unsure how to help you fix it but the thread JoAnn linked to is another from 6 months ago and should be very helpful and I would suggest looking at the Cape Cod (Story and 1/2) Tutorial and the Saltbox Roof Tutorial may help too, see below. http://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00358/52/Home-Designer/Roofs/Automatically-Building-a-One-and-a-Half-Story-Roof.html http://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00735/52/Home-Designer/Roofs/Creating-a-Saltbox-Roof.html

here is the post I referred to from several months ago https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/140-shed-dormer-extending-whole-length-of-the-roof-how-to/?hl=saltbox#entry698

just uncheck "no ceiling in this room" , you shouldn't need to use the "use soffit for ceiling" setting once the Roof is finalised ...it's not yet cos of door / deck issue.... you turn off Automatic roof rebuild and then set the room height to the desired height eg 96" from 36" and you will get a flat ceiling at that height. you need to change the roof on the back and remove most of the skirt roof so those door can access the deck , not sure what settings you have for that roof/wall though, perhaps post the Plan file , the Windows on that Dormer wall appear to be too high too judging by the door height. Either the Bartop's height needs to be lowered in it's DBX of the Pony Wall height needs raising in it's DBX (dialog box) We had another post similar to this a few months ago that might help ,i'll see if I can find it Mick

Look at the Reference Manual ( see my sig) under printing and how to send views of the Plan and elevations/cross sections to Layout. M.