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Everything posted by y-g-m-n
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Building Terrain perimeter with plot map bearings & dimensions
y-g-m-n replied to Doug_Morrison's topic in Q&A
Change NUMBER STYLE (pretty much on lower left of any object edit screen) to Number Style = DECIMAL FEET Ange Style =Quadrant bearing Then draw a line and then edit it to length and angle written on plot plan. do this for the 3 straight sides. Then move them so they connect at proper ends. then draw in arc and edit it to match info on plot plan. Easy Peasy. I have tried it where you draw rough shape then edit lines but it is PIA as you have to be sure what is locked start or end else it changes other lines. Now what you may find out is it is not perfect due to rounding on surveyors part so just choose one to be the error part like maybe the radius. Here is your plot plan: The arc is the part I had to make work as I figure that is easier to mess up than others. IT is just a poly line you need to convert it to TERRAIN. plot plan.plan -
that roof might be too flat for shingles as they have a minimum roof pitch for them to work properly otherwise you have to treat it as a flat roof with the rubber overlayment and guys with torches sealing it off.. especially if you live where it snows. Check with a shingles manufacturer website or drive to HD or Lowes and rear the package on a shingle bundle. Doing this research now can save you headaches when actual building. see where I live in Hurricane gulf coast those would get ripped off in high wind events since wind can easily pick up edge and lift them off.
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how did you make vaulted ceiling with ceiling plane? Then drag its edge over the wall studs as sheetrock is automatic no matter how you do anything. PS if you need help you can google it and there are peeps out there who charge for their help services with this software
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well to model lets first think of how would you build the flip up seat? I think I would use piece of plywood for the top and then cut 3 hatches which go all the way to the front and about 4-6" from back wall so I have room for piano hinge. Under plywood you need some sort of Ledge for lid to rest on when close. (1x4) glued and short screwed to under side and sticking into opening a bit or so framing structure. I would just point to the top and use a LEADER with some text saying lift up top for storage underneath and give dims and then say owner to cover with cushions.
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read about GABLE lines check the exterior walls by clicking on one and then open the EDIT dialogue. Go to ROOF TAB and review what you have as they list a few types but for most applications HIP or GABLE is what you would choose. SO for porch side walls select HIP POrch Front wall select GABLE
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draw it as a room - As Always use the HELP button it is very useful in anything. For walls use railings but Set roof to what you want over wall in thie case the front wall would be GABLE the sides HIP. CHECK - Rail style = open CHECK - Newel/Post = Post to Beam Play with type of post at wall start and end NEWEL/POsts Set width, any offset from wall, spacing then choose what you want for column in library Room Dialogue Set Type to PORCH Set floor Absolute elevation to your -7" (negative nunmber as 0 = top of 1st floor slab Pretty sure they have videos on website or something. PLay with software as it takes many hours of playing to find what works best and how to do things.
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need to edit the CABINET. Open edit dialogue and then go to FRONT. Assuming face frame and overlay type Starting from Top Open Area > Height = Your Cabinet Sink Height and might need to adjust stile width to close up sides to meet sink so (Cab W - Sink W)/2= stile width Blank Area > Depends on Cabinet specs and sink Height but should be whatever is need to ensure some space for doors to open Separation - Horizontal > Height = Your Cabinet standard Double Door > Height = What ever cabinet manufacture states if you do not know use 16.5" Separation - Horizontal > Height = Your Cabinet standard Everything depends on which Apron sink you choose as well as cabinet. So choose cabinet and use their specs for stile, overlay etc. Then customize the front as most APRON SINK CABS do not have opening cut since all sinks are different. IN fact some are made to just slip over plywood (see Kohler) Screen shot is of Apron Sink Cabinet I did. Remember installers will have to add internal cabinet structure to hold up sink - again depends on sink manufacture
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This is when your local custom cabinet maker gets involved... As they could make a cabinet box to fit and tie into others and look seamless. Not much storage inside so doors only. For software I would draw a base cabinet that is only 3/4" deep (sheet of plywood they use in cabinets) Door Front Only. Then add custom countertop to cover top.
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Very simple window bench that fits your space. HD Cabinet grade 3/4" Birch plywood. Make front in 2 pieces since over ft. OR make from 1x2 etc trim lumber CHEAP stuff. Then use pocket screws to make face frame. Cut plywood to make some verticals. Add 2x4 over wall to support "countertop" and one at bottom for drawer slide hardware to attach to. Make drawers from same plywood or you can get them custom made online or locally. Have owner pick counter top to be butcher block or if they want just use plywood. then have owners pick out pillows and cushions. Double as window set and 4 drawer storage underneath. Of you want the side with short wall on RIGHT can make on angle or curve to reduce banged up knees. have fun and be creative Window Bench.calibz
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well for #2 add a ceiling plane where the flat section is... Do you have 3d views/pictures of this house? I do not understand what it is supposed to look like as #3 does not make sense nor why would you do that.
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cabinet will not work as you are framing with 2x4s.... Cabinets are plywood boxes with drawers and doors on a face frame. So you could draw this as a special wall and ceiling structure room. for wall change dims and spacing of stud Personally I would remove all this framing. Finish out room like it was never there expect do not apply any window trim yet. So flooring is under what ever you make to allow for future changes and just looks better. Have a custom cabinet made. No toe kick Counter top could be plywood or butcher block or stone etc account for choice in design and could be window stool or just come up and align with it... Here is where you need design it before building. I see 3 boxes each having 2 doors maybe inset doors or full coverage doors Maybe make them lower so they become window seats and then only the top is hinged to lift up and store junk inside. These are the fun projects trim carpenters love. Hell reply with dims I might like to have a stab at design.
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nope as joists are horizontal. Roof rafters can be on slope which come from roof planes. So draw roof plane then adjust material to be OPENING (no material) under core library- Material - Insulation Then the roof disappears but the structure is left behind so rebuild framing. SHould add the rafters in and in the roof plane dialogue you can set their size and spacing.
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Need to go to wall edit dialogue. Then the roof tab Click help so the help screen opens and explains all the options on that page and what they do. Try and select GABLE
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either take what you have and edit those roof planes and maybe add some or you have to go over each wall and set the roof type Gable or hip. Then maybe add gable lines over portions of wall so then the entire wall is not gable just say a middle section. Might have to adjust wall/room heights for that front funky dormer.
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How would you build it in Real Life? Try 3D shapes.
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if you cannot see something when in any view 2d or 3d go there first to check what you are missing is set to DISPLAY as every view has their own settings.
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2 things to check. In the STAIR edit Dialogue - Tab for ARROW - Check box for include ARROW at top. Then on main menu TOOLS go to DISPLAY OPTIONS Scroll down to STAIRS & RAMPS, UP/DOWN Arrows and make sure you have a Check mark under DISP Column to turn it on in whatever view you are in. Most things are pretty simple it is just finding them.. So if you cannot see something see if it is turned OF in the display options. IF on there go to item and open its edit dialogue as normally everything you need to edit item is in there.
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maybe easiest way is to: click on the NICHE and open edit screen . Then go to FRAME tab and click them on and give them thickness of tile you will use and then adjust material for it and you will get it all the way around. here you can set the BACK material as well in lieu of custom backsplash.
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Habitable Attic and Ceiling to (next) Floor settings
y-g-m-n replied to DesignerMAC's topic in Tips & Techniques
Need to read the HELP screens and search attics... which by definition are not allowed to have rooms etc. If you want to turn Attic into livable space you needed to create it as net floor level. Check your defaults settings for structures and rooms etc to set ceiling heights- 1 reply
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- floor separation
- ceiling to floor
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(and 2 more)
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What software version are you using?
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question?
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Change them to PANELS and then change the PANEL material to what you like. click on these and open the edit screen for these "Railing Walls" Go to RAIL tab and at top select PANELS for the railing. Then go to material tab and change the PANEL material to whatever looks like what you want. Check in the bonus stuff for WIRE AND LATTICE plenty in there that may be close to what you need. OR find a picture file and edit a material to have it.
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go to CHIEF ARCHITECT forums and ask. This forum is for Home Designer big difference in software
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I suggest asking Chief Architect peeps
