y-g-m-n

I will say nice list of new features heck one I even asked for - LED STRIP-ROPE-TAPE Lights. WOnder how that works. - under counter top appliances like dishwashers etc. that fit between cabinets will not have to be inserted into base cabinets anymore hated fighting that And the countertops continue over these... - NEw framing stuff Interesting and I may have upgraded if it was purchase and not a subscription. I do not understand why they cannot have both. Let those who rent it for soem amount get everything in library store for free as a bonus for renting. but those who like to own and run one version for few years do so. I mean I can buy a car or lease why not software?

for each cabinet go to molding page and ADD in a base for each cabinet Remove toe as required. Not hard

do not think there is a way. Should only affect the material list when you calc for rooms, floor or house.. List gives # sheets so you could do a little math - take: #sheets * 8/12 = Q12ft you need

I would try the subscription but I want to keep my 2025. Also want ability to save files in 2025 format in case I do not think it is worth it I always have 2025 to fall back on. That is what sucks with subscription... you stop paying they turn it off and you cannot sue anymore so everything you have done is DEAD... Like a MAFIA thing --- you have to pay the juice to keep living.

I hate subscriptions even though I tend to upgrade every year but it was always my choice... Subscriptions force one to upgrade basically every year - I find the updates come more often but tend to be rushed and most updates are fixing issues from last updates. I understand why software companies like subscriptions as they feel they get a more consistent revenue stream but I would have to guess it is less then before since some just say NOPE. but if the subscription is cheaper per year then the upgrades from years past then OK. But when I stop the subscription I feel the software should stay on computer and work but never get updated again. Remember the only reason Software companies do updates/upgrades etc is to get you to send in more $$$$. Sad day when 2026 comes out.

you could try to play with roof pitches over certain ext walls. Maybe make second storey that fits inside roof and play with ceiling heights. I would have to play with it to make auto roof work and I just find that a PIA. If it was me, just too easy to make manual roof planes for that roof and then some attic knee walls for those walls in roof with windows. Whatever method you choose play with it and figure it out you will learn while playing and eventually get what you want. And for the next roof you have more knowledge

Choice they made years ago.... Does not bother me as much as I take it bother you... What bothers me is the lack of the ability to edit the library... i have some folders with nothing in them and It will not let me delete it.... drives me batty. but i guess OCD comes in many forms.... LOL

I did it in my homes model.. Cannot remember exactly but think I just went and found cab door in library and drag and drop into floor plan. Opened edit panel for it. Set W x H and thickness. Set elevation from Floor. Then moved to side of cabinet on island. Then I used a temp dim to locate left to right. As I say you have to play with program to figure out ways to create things and learn more of what it can and cannot do.

when I draw in HD I do it differently than autocad and others. in AC & SW you can click start point hold mouse for orthogonal lines and enter length - Accuracy. With HD I draw a wall and then make say a box - then I click on wall and move then or change lengths etc by changing temp dims to ensure accuracy. Same thing with using HD lines and circles. etc the way I like to do it is draw something close and then click on it and adjust temp dims... I guess that is why I never noticed the click and hold method of drawing things... Now I will be thinking of it.... ARGGGGGG should have never read this thread LOL.

I got it now.... I think please confirm TO draw a wall or a line or anything really You click start point and HOLD LEFT button on mouse and drag to wall end point and then release button. What you want is click start point and then release button while you move mouse to end point and then click left again to set end point. Never notice this, I guess I just got used to HD control and go. I draw in AutoCAD and SolidWorks as well and cannot tell you how I draw without opening them up and drawing then I could tell ya. Been using them all for so long that I just draw when I am using them.

HUH? I tried playing and do not understand your issue... Maybe I am just not getting your issue... Example?

yes it is some 2x4s in closet around wall with piece of plywood on top. IF larg might have 2x4 down center for added support to plywood top. Might have hole in plywood for air flow into AHU...depends on setup.

draw in some other program and import? OR just draw in other program and give to cabinet maker and even add dims for him and cross sections.

have you tried setting 0 at the lowest floor level and then inside each room definition for those raised rooms to raise the floor? YOu are using a monolithic CONCRETE SLAB foundation right? Software loves stem walls to Zero level even for lowered rooms and garages.

The term for your type of wall is called PONY WALL as stated above. Bottom portion one type of finish and the top is another finish. Can be interior walls too. I know PRO has this.

why mess with framing as it is kinda generic... framing crews may start studs at other end or whatever I can pretty much say the one thing they do not do is look at framing plans for where each stud should go. They will look at Framing details for what the plans state for ceiling height, beams sizes, joist sizes, headers, corners and mainly roof framing details like knee walls, collar ties, etc. But to waste any time on locating studs; something behind the sheet rock and never seen and that pretty much has no bearing on home plans seems a waste of time to me...

if OCD then try inserting a STAIR LANDING.

why bother? Ignore framing not a big deal. but I would just put a tick shelf in there if you must.

Thats fine and dandy just fix the text to say good for X17 only. When the new HD 2026 comes out then add that to text and let the world know - kinda like advertising... thanks for reading

I have some issues with your false advertising which I think you can easily fix. EXAMPLE FEATURED catalog for BLUMSAFE - what a great idea let me down load and check it out. Says compatible with HD PRO so I cam good to go. WRONG.. Does not work as for CA latest only. Can you either put in proper download file for HD products or correct where you says it works with HD.. Have others like that too. BonusMEPToggleSwitches yeah more switches - WRONG unless you have CA.

I would turn off auto foundation and run BUILD FOUNDATION in plan view while on first floor. Then go down to 0 floor and see what happened. MAke sure you have FOUNDATION layer and maybe footings turned on in LAYER DISPLAY OPTION

how did you build foundation? Should use the BUILD FOUNDATION button.

what do you want it to be? Siding right? Well many ways one I like is take the Eyedropper thingy and use it to click on siding you want applied to this dormer say the siding on first floor. after you click it turns into a spray can. Spray the siding of the dormer and it will change to what you click on with eyedropper. Use HELP command to learn more on this feature.

Have you tried POST to BEAM? not looking at anything but normally if you have posts holding up something there will be a beam above it and normally, they are located like headers. Might be 2 2x12s or a laminated type beam all depends on the post spacing. Might give you what you want and it adds the beam which has to go below rafters anyways.

maybe bring the right rectangular window closer to the arched one.