Kbird1

This is my post on it last year , post back if the file doesn't work and I'll try to figure out why..... https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/499-how-to-draw-board-and-batten-siding/#entry2664

AFAIK nothing special as long as it can handle HDA2016/Pro2016 but I think you should take this to PM , if you think you can help each other, happy to help if I can too but Jo is the HDA Wonderkid, being able to think outside the box makes a big diff. if you can't afford Pro, and she has been running that battle for a few years now.

material list for the room only list whats in a room ie nothing in this case try material list from Area or floor or ALL Floors instead depending on your Title which you should add to your Forum Profile Signature as it's needed info for almost all questions...there are 5 different Titles with different features

Damn you are going to be busy Girl ! , that better be a nice Comp. you ship stpete111, sooner she can install 2016 ( no go on XP) the better

Ship her a nice 64bit Win7 computer and your troubles will be over , she'll be appreciative no doubt....

When I get more time I'll have a look at your plans , but Jo_Ann can't as she is unable to install 2016 on her computer , which is why she ask for your floorplan , I assume she is duplicating it in her HDA10 instead , She likes a Challenge too

you can always goto ARCH now and then too Pro when you can afford it or need it , but as Jo-Ann proves every week HDA is pretty capable ,so you may never need Pro? and you are correct there is no "extra" discount for upgrading , you essentially just pay the difference. Of course it looks like you have chosen the most difficult house to start out with ,but it's still it's cheaper to upgrade the software than the house !

You are correct with the 2nd floor build being manual ("use blank plan option") , I didn't see the issue at 1st as my single storey addition wasn't wide enough to cause it and I didn't see it in your original post, that's why it's good to post the plan, ie different conditions get different results. The trick is to build the outer wall at a location where the Roof is correct in height but make the overhang on that wall a distance equal too the overhang you really want + the distance you need to move the wall out to be in the correct location and let the Roof rebuild , then turn off Auto Build Roofs and move the wall to its final destination under the already completed roof. You will have to play around with things but easier if you have the real measurements is my guess. You can however NEVER turn auto roofs back on as walls can't be locked and a rebuild will bring the issue back , so depending on what else you need in Plan with a roof you may need to do this very last thing as far as the structure goes. M

that response tells me they saw what I saw but did not understand your original issue , or what was in your Pic in the .Doc file..... M.

Yes you can customise many of the Toolbars ( not Edit bar) but as far as I know ,( and I have tried), you can not add buttons to the CHILD menus on the Toolbars, did you try that David? I could find nothing in my Ref. Manual on this either but don't have 2015.

the floor plans I have Jo_Ann

I asked about the wall as I didn't see any change when I added one ? The plan you posted still has auto build roofs on , was I supposed to turn it off and change some floor heights or something ? @stpete: if you buy HDA you get the money you spent on Suite back as an instant rebate , so you lose nothing by upgrading in the same year..... M.

I would say to attach the plan as I think you must have some roof setting wrong or something as it works fairly easily for me....see pics below ,maybe I misunderstood something?

you have the 30 day guarantee ...get your money back while you can then. There are some issues with computers using older intel HD graphics cards with the newer versions , you may need to update your videocard drivers.

I don't use suite , so maybe there is a difference ? hopefully someone else will try for you too. I did get a bunch of warning when I opened you plan which I ignored , since you are new and I kinda expected it , and just wanted to look at the garage floor issue ( one thing at a time) but didn't see anything here , not sure how or why you seem to have an extra basement under the garage. You didn't fix it before posting the plan did you?

I don't believe so , but I prefer the drop down myself (so maybe wrong) and have added icons to a few of the existing toolbars only not the drop down lists

@Jo I used X7 as Stpete is using 2016 and I couldn't open the file in HD Pro 10 , yours on the other hand I could... I thought you had Pro 2016 Trial now though? I noticed your 4" ext. walls but couldn't figure out the why??? Honestly I did not think you could do that on the 2nd floor with the Roof settings , but I have never figured out why the overhangs don't work like they should with Gambrel Roofs and you end up having to set it so it doesn't extend too far down, rather than at the correct measurement. Not sure why you have a wall missing between the 1st and 2nd dormers? though you may have mistaken the Soffit for an invisible wall in plan view? I'm guessing the soffit was to make the roof edge look more like the photo? The inside of the Dormers need a bunch of work to clean them up , I'll have another look tomorrow , when I have more time. M.

I think I detect a Southern Drawl quoted per earlier post in thread............ "your default overhang is set at 1/4" , it should be minimum 1 1/2 ? ( I used 2 1/4) otherwise you will lose the siding as seen, as the fascia would be in the wall as it is 1 1/2" thick (usually) but maybe 3/4 thick with Siding tucked behind it.?" ....some more info...... the fascia is part of the Roof System and Roofs ALWAYS cut walls , so keep fascia off the wall , the overhang measurement is to the back of the fascia from the STUD (main layer) not the siding, so make it to big to start and sneak it back in till the siding disappears or do some math and figure out what it needs to be if you fascia is hard on the siding.

no issue or the wrong plan posted my glass view doesn't look like yours ???? few other issues but not the garage floor.....

and post the plan , but heights are set via the room height and you should be able to change the wall thickness size AFAIK in the Wall's DBX. but it may depend on the software version as Eric mentioned.

No, you were asking about the 1st floor ceiling structure , if it is needed it is used, but if you have a 2nd storey above the 1st floor ceiling checkboxes are ignored and the 2nd floor structure settings are used, AFAIK.

also under the Door Icon on the Toolbar

not sure what you mean by "items" ...doors? windows? tricycle? if a room is designated garage it is dropped per the setting in the Build Foundation DBX , so if you placed all your items before building the foundation they may have been at the default floor setting of 0" before , this was an issue in older versions in that you had to build the foundation before placing door and windows etc or they wouldn't cut the curbwall out etc , not sure if that was fixed in newer versions? A plan is always good to look at , see the 2nd link in my Sig. for a how to for pics and plans.

if there is a 2nd floor above it is ignored , but not every 2nd floor is the same size as the 1st floor ,so the setting is needed for those areas.

do a forum search on pony walls AFAIK Suite does not have ponywalls ,so you will need to use Soffits (under cabinet menu) with stone applied to simulate the ponywall effect.