solver

Suggest you draw your own bay as there are limitations when using the Bay Window tool. You align walls between floors with the Reference Floor Display. Control drag the wall into position.

What I do is -- and I do not know if this can be done with the tools you have available. My screen capture program has a Repeat Last Capture function (F11). So I take a capture of the area, then go back to Home Designer and setup what I want to capture, then F11 (the hot key for my capture program) takes a second capture without disturbing Home Designer. I use an old version of HyperSnap. My guess is that most other screen capture programs have similar functionality.

Over here a commercial/industrial redevelopment project will often keep the feel of the original structures. Instead of making trying to make something look residential, they will play up the commercial look. I could see, for example, on your buildings large numbers -- a meter tall, identifying each unit. Don't know what type of chimney pipe you need, but a round from the library might work.

Do you have the snipping tool available? I use a third party screen capture tool, but believe the built in snipping tool will work.

Robert -- the images you are posting are really small and details difficult to see. Here is some info on capturing and posting images that may help. https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/221-how-to-take-pics-andor-post-your-plan-to-the-forum/

I would not delete, but just change the wall type as needed. Pony walls work well in this application, especially for a stepped foundation. Don't forget the Knowledge Base.

Without understanding just how things are built, and how accurate you need to model the as built condition, what I describe below is just an idea. I inserted a new floor 1 that is 3" high. No floor or ceiling structure, just walls like on your floor 1 (now floor 2). This acts as a spacer to lift the new floor 2 above the joists. I made a few other changes to some wall settings, but the important one was to uncheck Subflooring to Wall Interior for all the walls on floor 2. You may also need to check Go Through Floor Below for these same walls. Plan with changes attached. Renovation 1 - Eric.plan

It should always be there, especially in a new install. I'd contact Tech Support. Right click on a toolbar to make changes.

Yes, use 2 landings.

Showing the large garage as almost a separate building. Making it plain and with darker colors. Fancy up the house a bit to draw attention to it. Have you considered keeping the master and guest bedrooms down and putting the other 2 up? The massing might work, and with a stair needed to the basement, you could stack another stair on top.

#4 just shows all one exterior material. #8 shows the stair after I used "Make Best Fit". It added a tread to the second set of steps, so you may want to double check that your stair is correct. That space is tight at the bottom as is. Change your porches to have a room type of Porch. You get a room set up to be on the exterior with a concrete floor. I might do a to-scale printout, then make some scale cars and drive them in and out. I don't see a good solution. If there were a rear exit, between the buildings, you could make the road one-way.

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Another -- all gable

I know the house will be changing with the addition of basement stairs for example, but here is one way to simplify the roof.

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Big job Keith. Looking at the site plan, I wonder where I'll park my second car, or where friends and family will park. Is there enough room to back out of the parking space and turn around? I might prefer a single exterior finish, or completely different finishes per unit on both the upper and lower floors. Make all the units the same, or make each one completely different. In the 2 rear units, how about changing the layout so that the utility type spaces -- stairs, closets etc, are on the inside wall, and the kitchen and living areas are along the outside. Add windows on the outside walls so the spaces have light from 2 sides. You might check all your stairs. Tread sizes (depth) varies, and I'm not sure one stair will fit its space as drawn after doing a Make Best Fit. Consider rethinking the kitchens in the front building. They seem too large. In the 2 rear most units in that front building, the extension containing the sink appears unneeded. That space might work as an entry and half bath, for example. The kitchen could move elsewhere. And a few odd things I noticed.

You could use soffits instead of the room within a room to eliminate the issue.

I asked for your plan so we would know things like roof pitch and ceiling heights. These things are key, as even small differences can make a big difference.

Something like this?

Uploading the plan will help us help you. Just attach the .plan file as you would an image. Make sure the plan is not open in Suite.

No.

After taking a quick look at the plan, I'd suggest completing it, then working on the roof.

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