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Everything posted by y-g-m-n
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is 30x48 even a paper size? Engineers like ANSI size paper: I know 34x44 is ANSI E size which is great because when printed it can be folded up to an A size 8.5x11 Architects for some reason like bigger paper 36x48 is ARCH E 30x42 is some new ARCH E1 size. yeah I know no help sorry but I am curious your paper size is different.
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pro has staggered studs for some reason under STRUCTURE tab when you select and open a wall to edit.. Hit HELP for way more info on how it works. Also go to wall definitions and adding wall layers etc to suit what you want. There really is a ton of info for software under help.. hard part is finding which command to get help with Hence why I tell people play around before going straight into modeling your first project. you need to learn software
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highlight one of those rooms. Click EDIT or open go to STRUCTURE tab Click help button lower right Read help about ceiling - especially SHELF CEILING I mean the help for Shelf screen explains you issue to the T From the help screen on SHELF CEILINGS
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in your picture you show a GABLE end over the one end I can see. That changes ridge length since it goes all the way to this Gable end over wall. your model does not have gable end any where. You have hip roof over the 4 walls. The roof ends up being the roof based on: Exterior Wall locations Wall Height Roof Pitch (slope) Overhand from exterior walls both for hip and gable style roofs. There are more but these are the basics. so draw your house plan get it right then choose which walls are gable and hip, check your room ceiling height as it sets wall height. then make the roof. Worrying about Ridge length is not the way to go about this. Maybe this is a language translation thing?
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change overhang for those walls then rebuild roof. In effect that is what you are doing if you keep roof plane slope. Or do want different roof plane slopes? Kinda confusing what you want as extending ridge has to be accounted for somehow.
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yes you can use things pretty much anywhere is what I learned by playing around.
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how are you puting the tile into the model? Have you tried custom backsplash which has editable thickness?
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Ceiling not dropping down like other rooms.
y-g-m-n replied to Gary_Ganu's topic in Tips & Techniques
what floor level is tha screen shot taken from? DO you have show ceilings on in the display layer tool? -
I played with it. What I did was add more elevation lines above this wall you want to ensure terrain remains So 120" on top edge of LOT and added them in every 2' elevation based on removing that wall of yours and having a nice uniform slope. Then I added your wall back as best as I could. But on the top side I put elevation line of what it roughly was before wall was there so I think I drew wall right ovcer the 6" elevation line and put that for elevtion line on top. ON bottm side of this wal lI added elevation line of 0.0 and made it a bit wider then garage and then added extended them vertically down along side of garage. See when you select the flat pad for foundation it does it for the house slab not other buildings I have found. So there are other ways you could make a FLAT AREA with 0 elevation around garage and then ensure you have enough elevation lines to define slope. 2 is not enough and the more the merrier as program interporlates between 2 lines and terrain item to try and figure out what the terrain would look like. So the only way to really ensure accuracy is draw in a bunch of elevation lines you know are accurate. Anyways play with what did. below 548429131_BackPatio.pdf 548429131_BackPatio.plan PS your garage roof is out of whack in that the ridge is not centered with building and the house wall is a tad higher than other hip side.
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Have you tried Custom Countertop.? If not just use the SHELF command under cabinets and size and locate where you want. Ensure you change thickness to whatever countertop material you will be using as today they come in many thicknesses. then change material to your fave countertop material
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can you show above screen shot but scroll up to where cabinets are listed?
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- dotted lines
- base cabinets
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If you hired Architect might be better to just send your plan view ON PAPER with dimensions and some elevation views of your desired look. That way they can confirm things can be built to what you want. If you send him a file and he uses it and it has errors that are not easy to see well the foundation and/or framing crew will find them for sure and you do not want that. EDIT was to add on paper meant for you to print the plan view
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you can always use railing to define an exterior PORCH "ROOM". SO add in railing walls to define a porch space that lines up with existing exterior walls. Then you need to edit this railing wall by drawing and then clicking OPEN to EDIT. GO to RAILING TAB Set Railing to OPEN set NEWEL/POSTS to be POST TO BEAM Set START & END posts how you want them for each porch "wall" so against house you may want NO POST or HALF or FULL your choice. Next to the NEWEL/BALUSTERS tab here you pick your COLUMN and set Dims in plan view, offset from Wall & spacing max NEXT to RAILS tab Here you can set dims of beam and its offset. Then if you enclose the space with these walls attached to house exterior walls you created a new room. OPEN room and set floor height and roof type etc. Then roof should be fine if you auto rebuild. TIP: When drawing set wall type to be whatever your external wall is - it will not use this wall but in plan view it uses it so you can ensure you line up the FAKE studs with your normal cabin external walls so the roof draws properly since roofs are done from the "MAIN LAYER" outer edge of upper most top plate outer corner. so you want them to be colinear and same height. PLAY with it and practice and it will come to you once you see what changing something in those EDIT screens does. I find railing pretty powerful since you can make solid panels for glass walls in showers that do not go to ceiling etc.
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Did not think you were allowed to move stuff while in layout which is a drawing on titleblock.
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What should the back overhang be set at on base cabinets?
y-g-m-n replied to Plainwacky's topic in Q&A
but if against the wall then it does not overhange. just like it does not overhang on the side when 2 or more cabinets screwed together. Only overhangs when it can into open space. -
they have manual dims.. in 2024.. I always use it to locate items in plan. what you want is AUTO dims turned off in the display list
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Manually creating Roof and Framing Plans
y-g-m-n replied to SillySally's topic in Sales Related Questions
PRo Version has what you need. Check this page out which compares versions Home Designer | Home Design Software for DIY (homedesignersoftware.com) -
Take a picture of what you want in real world. Then insert to plan. Maybe edit picture in photoshop to cut around branches and such Also check out 3d warehouse: 3D Warehouse (sketchup.com) PLenty of posts on here on how to get something and convert it to HD - I forget off hand as It just comes to me when I do it. Probably other sites too.
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I have not done one but I cannot see it being difficult you need to set exterior wall default to be your CMU type. I have seen some before in the wall types available in various templates. Then I would open the edit screen for the wall and make sure wall layers are as you like. Maybe like: Interior to exterior: 1/2" sheetrock 2x4 wood stud 1" this spray foam to create thermal break. 8" thick CMU ??? After CMU depends on what you wanna do I could see maybe stucco?
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I think on some panels if you open them up, they have placement dims. You need to look at DISTANCE from WALL and play with it to get your desired look. Seems the panels I use like to go into walls, and they are mounted on exterior outdoors on my brick.
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Crap thought of another way while I played with my plans. Draw first floor with 10ft ceilings. Then add second floor but with Ceiling height that gives you your 14ft studs. Make sure balloon framing is checked everywhere (might be best to see if it is in Defaults)
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one option that might work - I have not tried Set first floor rooms to have the same ceiling height which would be with the 14ft studs (where do you find these by the way? 12' is max board lengh around here) Absolute Ceiling Height = single bottom plate + double top plate + 14ft stud = 14'-4.5" ceiling. Then make sure THIS ROOM HAS FLAT CEILING is UNCHECKED. Then draw in a manual ceiling plane at 10' height (which is under joists) Define ceiling joists etc etc and you will get what you want I think. But if not I bet maybe tweaking a few things from what I wrote would get you what you want. Good luck
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With new plan materials are imported from the defaults associated with the template file you chose.
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Maybe go to your plan's material list and open the edit screen for each separately and compare the texture screens as tha is what defines how a material looks in standard views. Not sure where the physical views come from. See if they are different, are they using the same picture file? Edit to your liking.