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I know in PRO you an as it is done inside cabinet edit window not by certain door. Door & drawer size vary depending on how you hve cabinet set up. so I think it is on second tab and you select FRAME or FRAMELESS. then inset door or overlay or full overlay. With a value for actual overlay and face frame width. If confused look at help screen for cabinets or I am sure they have videos.

always best to dim from wall studs as that is what built per dimensions and framing crew will need that info. Sheet rock is just laid on the stud wall so they do not need to be dimensioned. Now if you are measuring exsiting just add 2 times Wall board thickness (1/2" in USA) to dims you actually measured to get to stud dims.

pffffffffffffffft Dayum you grumpy

cool I learned something - lot of steps to get there but cool - I hope I remember I used to just explode - edit - re-block together.

I posted a link to system requirements and it has a minimum and preferred list of what to get and then footnotes. not sure what else you need?

try selecting both and then hitting the ARCHITECHURAL BLOCK button. It will then combine but you lose the edit screen for each so make sure they are located where yo want them. Also use the HELP screen with this command.

I do not understand how it got this way? BOX? Maybe upload this portion of your plan.

?? You do change 3D view to STANDARD? The bottom 2 pics are viewed in VECTOR. IF do not understand check the following in the HELP screen. RENDERING TCHNIQUE OPTIONS THey also have a new one called PHYSICAL View which is aweseom but you need some graphic card power and memory or you will be waiting for the rendering to happen.

Main website gives that info. System Requirements | Home Designer (homedesignersoftware.com)

IF not here try 3d warehouse online

3d shapes in library: They are very powerful when you need to create something not in a catalog. I have used them for pipes, conduit, AC Line Set covers, etc. Note they can be rotated when viewing in 3d viewing When yo uget to one and click edit click the help screen and read about SHAPES. Road map to shapes: HOME DESIGNER CORE CATALOGS - SHAPES -- BOXES

turn off auto roof. also if you rebuild roof there is button on first page about leaving edited or modofied auto roofs alone.

my guess is you used a shelf to make this post and since that is under cabinets it automatically creates filler strips to have it touch wall. Try making it from a SHAPE - Rectangle vertical.. You can change the dims andmaterial to your liking. then ensure you have SHAPES turned on in VIEWING

for front draw invisible wall where you want the gable end - select wall type to be whatever you want the gable end to be. MAke sure you select GABLE END under the roof edit tab for this wall. Now if you have visible beam under gable end you could make this wall a RAILING and select post to beam

in a normal PLAN views the doors are not drawn nor shown. Just the cabinet Carcass or box is shown. Now you can click on the open doors and drawers in pan view and they will show up then as dotted lines.

First CLick on object in your plan that has this existing white Laquer color. OPen up the edit screen Go to material tab. Click & Highlight the part that shows this white laquer color Then to right of it you can click on SELECT MATERIAL under 2 squares showing examples of existing material you have highlighted. This will open a new MATERIAL SELECTION screen. (see attachment screen shot) I point with red arrow where you click to go to a NEw Screen that lists only material used in PLAN. IT should open up with your highlighted Material being highlighted in the list. Now look to the right in the middle below those 2 swatch boxes you will see a link to ADD TO LIBRARY. click that and it adds it to your custom library, so it is easier to find in future. Or do nothing but maybe write material name down so you do not forget and then can back out of everything and go search in full library for it and find it to see if there are more.

I would ensure platform with angled stairs is to the dims they show. that 6" along the inside edge is what gives you the 10" at the walk line. So do what you must to get that 6" and everything should work out. Choice as I see it is make stairs narrower or platform steps bigger. Or U shaped stairs?

USE TERRAIN ELEVATION TOOLS. They have elevation points, lines and splines. Insert these points, lines etc and give each an elevation (after drawing select for edit and in the edti screen is all sorts of things and ELEVATION being one of them) Then after they are all in go and REBUILD Terrain. All sorts of terrain things covered in help screen manual. If you have survey plans with elevation lines you can import data sometimes. Strongly suggest checking out help screen and search some topics on elevation - click on links in there and dig down and then practice. Heck might be a video on HD support page

USE CENTER command. Click on one off center to select it. Then click CENTER button on bottom left row of buttons. Select/click The one that is 2 arrows pointing at each other Then move cursor to cabinet that is centered and move mouse so a Centerline appears centered on this cabinet where you want. Best to do in PLAN view NOte watch for the centerline because it will choose sides and possible change directions so not vertical horizontal. Note they also have one for mirror, align/perpendicular etc. Lots of stuff covered in manual if you type in CENTER as it should lead you to the other as lots of things in construction are centered or perpendicular or aligned with other objects. Another method could be in plan view select objet you want to move and temp dims come appear. Select the dimension you know you want to change. Example base aligned with upper. Select base and some temp dims appear select one that you can change the value to force the base to be centered with upper. All depends on what temp dims you get that time and they can change based on where you select on the object. PRACTICE and this is powerful and saves bunch of time.

GEt pro and then manually edit those automated roof planes to get what you want.

yes that is how they are made in real world you unscrew frame on say top and slide the new wood door panel down. Usually these types of fridges have handles etc atached to door middle edge - See Sub-Zero in MANUFACTURER Library. Then for vertical pilasters on sides you could leave space when setting cabinets and go to normal library under architecture/ millwork: And go thru each subfolder for columns or balusters etc until you find one you like the look and stick in between cabinets and stick forward 1-3". IF sides not flat use partition to fill gap by making it thick and go from cabinet to cabinet but is flush with front cabinet face frames. Or stick in a Cabinet that is BLANK and solid front to fill in gap. lots of way for that type of stuff. Just remember you are trying to make a pretty 3D rendering not exactly how you build as that would be up to cabinet and trim carpenters.

well if already in your plan - on left of material screen you have choice library or plan Choose PLAN as it is a short list of those you have put into your plan at one time or another. Some may not being used at moment and can be PURGED out or left alone.

open the room within the U walls and the other side you seem to have a hidden wall to make it a room. Open room edit feature GO to structure tab CLICK HELP Read about ceiling control features. PAy attention to SHELF CEILING I think you will find it suits your needs

try framing? I duuno I am running PRo 2024 and it has rough opening.

first off, what is it?