Kbird1

I am not sure you can do what DJP suggested in Pro or CA , he may need to elaborate....... In CA it is possible once you convert the Terrain to a solid , but a terrain perimeter is really just polyline ( without thickness) even though you can alter it for 3D views. In Pro which I think you have?, within each plan see if this works...convert TP to plain polyline , then convert to Slab and check the volumes. Note as a Slab everything will look like Concrete not grass unless you change the material for the Slab.

Nothing wrong with the Look ........in a small space every square ft makes a difference though and without increasing cost much if at all you can get more space for the same $$$ amount especially since it is a new build. One other consideration is Family ......you got a Cabin at the Lake..... you are gonna have Visitor's guaranteed , so the Full 2nd Floor with another Bedroom makes sense even if you only use it for when him..or her is snoring mostly or as an Office etc. May depend on the budget too , but most aren't going to want to live too small for too long ,may even make sense to go one more sheet of plywood, eg 24x16 main floor and stay 16 x16 above especially if for a 4 season Cabin . M.

They took down the Old Forum link Elovia but the forum is still there and searchable at least at the moment , if you find the Post, copy and paste it here for posterity please. https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/1133-old-forum-is-still-there-if-you-need-it/#entry6447 You can still access it via Google (searching) too I think....

I like that one better , though I'd bring the Shed Roofs to the Front wall of the 2nd Storey and use the extra Room upstairs , whether the roof is a gable or shed you are gonna pay about the same , so flap those two gable roof up and use the extra space , the sqft. of roofing is still the same either way +/- a few feet whether it on the 1st or 2nd floor... it should also allow for larger/ more Windows on the 2nd floor for that all important cross ventilation and "Chimney Effect". M.

thx for Reporting back I am sure the information will help others too in the Future. M.

Still don't have my Results or a diagnosis but appreciate the good thought Keith , I know what you mean about the Chest twinges though or even a bit of indigestion. I forgot about Geforce Experience as I don't usually let it install, glad that did it... right Click the desktop and open Nvidia Control Panel and add HD Pro on the Manage 3D settings> Programs Tab and try these settings I would also check you Prefs.> Render Tab and make sure it is correct too , let the Nvidia Card do the rendering ,so try turning off Software Edge Smoothing and see if it helps ...see pic.

Slabs and Soffits (cabinet menu) are also handy for "fixing" things if you think OTB a bit too.

Hi Keith glad to see you are doing well , you had a couple of us wondering...... The Nvidia thing is a problem for some but installing the proper Windows 10 Driver they released fixes it for most people , they actually recommend installing it before you upgrade so that doesn't happen here is the download page http://www.geforce.com/drivers fill in the info in the Manual search box for your Nvidia Card including UK English etc and you should be offered a download to Driver Version 353.62 if you don't know the info , you could try the Auto Update above the Manual Search box. if you are still unsure post the make and model of the card from the Box or receipt and I will find a link to the driver for you... I had heard that about the Games , do some googling , it's likely someone has figured out how to get them back from the Win7 DVD.

Here is a quick video that was posted yesterday on step foundations too http://screencast.com/t/ATpbDgZaHp

your are right about the "inverted wedge" , I was more thinking of the shape in a elevation view.... interesting find on the Attic Wall setting .....

Hi, assuming you have Pro, this is possible there is a KB Article on how to do It. https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-01809/creating-a-stepped-foundation.html You should update your Profile with your version and Software Title ,it makes a difference in alot of answers.

Try 3D Warehouse, if the HD Libraries dont have anything

The quick easy...move on to something else way... is the Triangle from the Shapes Library with the same color as the drywall applied , in some versions of HD it is the Only Way , since they can't edit walls in elevation. This is something that is being asked for as a Fix on the CT Forums too... M.

That's how I'd do it too , prefer built up LSL , especially if working alone , the post placement can effect Windows etc below but a header on the 1st flr can spread that load too if needed. FYI ...Code in some areas does not allow Doors directly at the top of staircases ,due to the fall hazard.... Did you get those Files Scott? i'll delete them off OneDrive if you have thx.

the options would depend on what program you are using and perhaps what version , so it is best to fill in your Forum Signature Profile with your specs (see mine below) M.

if you want to see your DXF files before you send them out download the Free program called DraftSight , it will also convert files if needed too. M.

DXF is a 2D format AFAIK so that sounds right....but I don't do this , perhaps you can convert the DXF to DWG ? or export one floor at a time? there is this KB article but not really a lot of help. https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00111/creating-a-dxf-file.html Can they import PDF's?

At this point I don't see a need to buy a new computer, (unless you want to ) , you have win7_x64 ,8gb ram etc , I would be checking Intel's site for new HD3000 drivers but I think the Home Designer 2016 got updates (reading over on CT) that enabled it to run on these older Intel cards too so try downloading the Trial version and see if it runs better , it maybe worth the upgrade. this intel driver may work: https://downloadcenter.intel.com/downloads/eula/24971/Intel-HD-Graphics-Driver-for-Windows-7-8-64-bit?httpDown=http%3A%2F%2Fdownloadmirror.intel.com%2F24971%2Fa08%2Fwin64_152824.exe more on this page to choose fromhttps://downloadcenter.intel.com/search?keyword=2nd+Generation+Intel%C2%AE+Core%E2%84%A2+Processors+with+Intel%C2%AE+HD+Graphics+3000%2F2000 intel also has an auto update tool but I find it doesn't always work but you could try it 1st on this page on the top LH side. https://downloadcenter.intel.com/ If your old Printer has Vista Drivers they often work on Win7 too you can add you system specs to your User Profile so you don't need to add them every post via clicking on your user name at the top right of the page, click My Settings, then Signature on the left.

if you are considering Small houses vs Tiny you might want to look at some of Sarah Susanka's books / articles / plans , she has articles in FHB quite often too. http://www.notsobighouse.com/index.asp http://susanka.com/plans/default.asp https://www.google.ca/#q=sarah+susanka

I am unsure how 2015 updates would make it nearly unusable? What do you mean? While an i3 isn't the latest or greatest it should still run it even if a bit slow. Are we talking about a laptop here? Did you try updating the video drivers at the Manf. Website? Not dell's Intel has released new drivers that often don't get put on the laptop makers website. More ram may help , most but not all laptops allow an upgrade but perhaps it is just time to get something better ? And the more you can spend the more you will generally futureproof yourself. M.

Do a search on auto stairwell , if that doesn't work look up Open Below Rooms

if you want 24x36 Sheets send your pages to layout on 12x18 pages at 1/2 the Scale You want ie 1/8 not 1/4", then print the pages to PDF at 200%

you need to learn how the Wall Roof Directives Tab controls the Roofs built , a good place to start is the Reference Manual and there is a KB Articles on the Basic Roofs , since you have Suite you will need to be very conversant with this procedure as Suite only has Auto Roofs, you can't draw anything manually. this is probably a good starting point https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00359/automatically-building-the-basic-roof-styles.html along with this Video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5kcRhRnAYX8&list=PL7J4ch5cuz9-j_RVA6Wvqa96B7p-9C-gZ&index=2 There is also a Roof Tutorial in the UserGuide (link on the help menu)

Once you have completely finished your plan , using the Save As Command make 1 copy of the plan with a distinct name per needed page for the Plan set my house_main floor my house floor 2 my house basement my house Roof my house Sections my house Site plan etc etc be very aware of any changes you make in one plan as they won't update the other plan pages M.

ok now I know why my house looked different , you had to turn the Auto Roof build back on to get a roof on your house ......which you can't do ...or it will (may) mess up existing roofs in the plan.... which it has done in this case. The reason you see 8/12 on my railing is because my roof was built at 4/12 with invisible walls and then the Roof Build was turned off , so the directive in the railing dbx means nothing.... you would see the true pitch in the 1st plan (RP) but you can turn on roof labels (Display Options) and see the true pitch of the roof planes if needed.