DavidJPotter

"X,Y &Z" is how particles or 3D faces become parsed (located in virtual space) within a 3D CAD program. "X" values are determined from an arbitrary "Zero point", positive "X" values locate a point to the "right" and negative values locate to the "left". "Y" points locate points or particles up screen with positive values and down screen (in plan views) re quire negative "Y" values. Lastly "Z" values define locations of points above and below an arbitrary zero point in terms of 3D height, negative "Z" values define points below "Zero". This is how 3D points are expressed within computer 3D software and apply generally to Home Designers 3D nature and to how Terrain objects are expressed by way of "Elevation Objects". The main arbitrary within a structure is the fixed "Floor Height expressed by the first floor's "Zero" floor height. Terrain's highs and lows are expressed within itself-to itself and then aligned to the 3D model of the structure by way of the "Building Pad" input box found in the "Terrain Specification Dialog Box", raising or lowing the terrain plane to the house's first floor "Zero" level. DJP

I have used DFX files for terrain but I just import the file and then convert the topo lines to 3D topo lines in Home Designer. I do not know what a .nez file is so on that question I claim ignorance. You NEVER rotate the structure from its native screen "north-south" orientation. What you do is to rotate the topo elevation data and terrain plane and orientate that to the house. I have been using Chief and Home Designer titles since 1994 and I have never successfully imported any GPS data to create a modulated terrain plane. What I did run into is that such data can be so complex in nature that the resultant 3D object (terrain plane) is too complex for anything but a super computer to display in camera views (it is composed of too many 3D faces- Terrain is displayed as 3D triangle faces, that is what I am calling a 3D face). How I do terrain from GPS or a topographical map is to import the graphic terrain map as a .dxf file (usually from a surveyor or Architect done in AutoCAD) or an image file showing terrain elevation lines and splines after scaling it in the software. I NEVER USE POINTS because they create too many 3D faces (see above) and are hard to locate and edit after the fact (they are points and so are very tiny visually). DJP

I am not sure what exactly you are trying to do (I am not sure what you mean by Terrain Template). NO First of all, I have been using Chief and Home Designer titles since 1994 and I have never successfully imported any GPS data to create a modulated terrain plane. What I did run into is that such data can be so complex in nature that the resultant 3D object (terrain plane) is too complex for anything but a super computer to display in camera views (it is composed of too many 3D faces- Terrain is displayed as 3D triangle faces, that is what I am calling a 3D face). How I do terrain from GPS or a topographical map is to import the graphic terrain map as a .dxf file (usually from a surveyor or Architect done in AutoCAD) or an image file showing terrain elevation lines and splines after scaling it in the software. I NEVER USE POINTS because they create too many 3D faces (see above) and are hard to locate and edit after the fact (they are points and so are very tiny visually). I have watched the same video you have and the example they use is a lot simpler that what you will find in a surveyors topo map. You can of course ignore my advice above and do what you want to do; it is not my purpose to stop you or to advise against what you may believe. I use this software to make a living and for many years. I just need something that my PC can handle so I can get my work done in a timely fashion. DJP

The file format for all Home Designer titles including what you have is only .dxf you have to have Chief Premier to import .dwg files. DJP

No one can answer your question with certainty without first knowing what software application you have and its version number. Depending upon what you do have will determine your answer. Also one would need to know in what file format you wish to import into your software, do you know the answer to this query? DJP

You have done NOTHING WRONG. What you are experiencing is the learning curve of how the software is designed to work. It has strong and weak points and in my opinion Auto-Dims are a weak point (not the sharpest tool in the shed). I NEVER use interior auto dims because of the overkill of too many dimension strings and repetitive ones. When I do use the interior ones, I know I have a lot of manual editing and deleting to then do. Exterior Auto Dims I do commonly use after I alter or edit Dimension Defaults-Locate Objects. Automatic tools are, well, automatic in that they are preprogrammed to work in a particular way. Many users here and at Chief Talk have complained as you just have, so they are aware of such complaints. The best answer I can give you is to get good at manually editing dimensions so you can then have them as you need and want. Part of your learning curve is finding out what works well and what does not and then just stepping in and manually editing what you need to control yourself. DJP

Terrain and Roof systems are the hardest to learn for new users, so you are not alone in that. I suggest that you carefully read the Reference Manual Sections (found under "Help - Read Reference Manual") about "Terrain and related tools". Developing your own competence takes some time for study, practice which will end up in your own success. There are also Knowledge Base Help Articles that you can search by topic at the Home Designer Website . My advice is to learn on a gradient, by that I mean a little at a time and then, once learned, a little more. With Terrain you should add at least two different "Terrain Elevation Objects" (two different values will create a gradient slope between such values). You make a single change by adding additional elevation objects and when done for each one, evaluate the effect or effects each objects causes right after placing it to see if your effect is in the direction you want it to go. The most common mistake new users make is to make several changes or additions but when that is done it is more difficult to then tell which change was right and which are wrong. Develop your modulated terrain slowly and simply to keep it less confusing. Hilly terrain with embedded stairs such as you have is the most difficult to emulate. The learning curve is rather frustrating and stressful but worth the doing. DJP

Sure, just contact me via e mail so we can agree on a appointment time. I am available for on line Help Sessions on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays from 10 AM to 7 PM CDT weekly. DJP

Please view this short You Tube video presentation about door casings, interior and exterior: DJP

I do not believe you at least in terms of proof, I checked this out in Pro 2017. Architectural 2017, Suite 2017 etc and it is EXACTLY as SWarren and I have said it is. Perhaps we are not actually speaking of the same thing. If you were to post a copy of your plan and or a screen shot of what you are seeing then we could come to some form of actual understanding. Words can be deceptive whereas image or .plan evidence can be more clearly understood and evaluated by all concerned. DJP

As Eric has said, a specific answer to your question requires you telling us what software title and its version you are using. However, whatever you are using its wall tools act the same whether it is Home Designer or Chief Premier. I often add a custom slab to such corners set to the same material as the joining walls to have it appear to have a more squared appearance in camera and plan views. This has been the way it is since I started using this stuff back in 1995 and has not changed. I think I will render this as a feature request for future versions as you certainly have a valid point and complaint. I have also used three walls to form a more squared off corner (as you have seen only two walls creates an unwanted point), it is not particularly easy to do but can also work. The third wall squares off the corner. Here is a You Tube video of me demonstrating this: DJP

In any Home Designer version and title the best way to add a patio is to demark its boundaries using invisible "Room Definition Walls" to create its area. Once it has a Room Dialog Box in place by drawing at least three such walls you can then define its floor height, ceiling height (if required) and whether or not the space has a ceiling or not. If you want a roof or covered patio having walls to define its boundaries is still required but instead of invisible walls you could use railing walls set to emulate posts and beams to support an arbor type "ceiling" or roof. The above is quite generalized due to not knowing exactly what intend and what software you are using. DJP

A layout file is only useful for others to view IF the .plan file is also shared (the .layout file reads dynamically the plan file or files associated with it, so no plan file will = a blank .layout file always). That is why the .plan file is vitally important in terms of evaluating what is happening. You might consider sharing a copy of the .plan file using Dropbox, One Drive or Google Drive. This way the file size is not important and is easier than an e mail attachment or forum attachment which have size limitations DJP

The ceiling height settings when raised and when Auto Rebuild roofs is "on" you get a roof rebuild based upon the new ceiling height settings-Automatically. The correct procedure is to get your roofs looking correct. When you get what you want then turn off "Auto Rebuild Roofs" in the "Build Roof Dialog". Once that "feature" is turned off you can then raise or lower ceiling heights in individual room specification dialogs - Structure Tab - Ceiling Heights without it then auto-rebuilding the roof system. This is not a "bug" rather it is just learning what to do and when to do it to get a particular result using the software. It is programmed to work in a particular fashion, it is your job as a learner to find out how that is and then work with it as it is to gain your purposes. It is you who need to be knowledgable, the software just follows your orders so any outcome is your responsibility and not the software's. DJP

You could use the "Doorway Tool" and then turn off the casing to obtain a doorway that is not cased or you can use an interior door and the via its dialog turn off casing and threshold to obtain a wall opening that is not cased. This is not a "Bug" because this has been so programmed this way since I started using this software in 1995. What the dialog is telling you is that on an interior doorway or door there is no "Exterior Casing" rather just "Casing". DJP

You could use the "Doorway Tool" and then turn off the casing to obtain a doorway that is not cased or you can use an interior door and the via its dialog turn off casing and threshold to obtain a wall opening that is not cased. This is not a "Bug" because this has been so programmed this way since I started using this software in 1995. What the dialog is telling you is that on an interior doorway or door there is no "Exterior Casing" rather just "Casing". DJP

Close and reopen the software should bring them back. If not, I then need to know what software application and its version you are using please. DJP

Increase the roof overhang which will then cut of the unwanted walls you are getting (Roof planes are programmed to cut off walls UNDER those roof planes, so too little overhang = unwanted walls). This is not a "bug", it is just programming. DJP

I have thought about this some more. The main difficulty are the inabilities inherent in Architectural but this does not mean you cannot do what you need done (This is easier to do in HD Pro or Chief Premier, I have done what you want done many times in those applications). You may just have to compromise a little: You can turn off all non contributive visual layers and objects using "Display Options" dialog for plan view. Roof planes can be turned on in plan view but not given an opaque fill per roof plane as in Pro or Premier. Printing that to scale will require some trial and error using the "File - Print - Show Sheet" tool and the "File - Print - Sheet set up tool". Features that you are probably not familiar with. I would recommend that you search "Help" for "Print to scale" before you waste a lot of time guessing what to do in terms of dialogs and steps. DJP

Use the full overview camera and then under the "3D" menu select "Top View". You might first want to turn off (uncheck) any layers that you do not wish to print (You can leave the existing roof plane layers "on". Depending upon the target paper size you pick will determine how scaled the printed drawing is. DJP

There is a "Door Chime" button you can use in the Library Browser which looks like a garage door button, kinda-sorta. DJP

"Why" has been asked many times over the years at Chief Talk and elsewhere. The software Architects at Chief Inc have consistently said "it cannot be done" without explaining why (or maybe I have never fully understood their explanations). It would be a very positive plus if one could do this but they say it cannot be done without 3D to 2D steps and then redraw using current 3D tools (ugh!). I am just a long time user and not a programmer so I cannot give you the "Tech" reason this is so, I can merely say that it is not possible presently. The applications that are natively 2D like AutoCAD do not have this arbitrary but it does seem to be so for 3D CAD applications. Revit:https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/revit-products/troubleshooting/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/Backwards-compatibility-of-Revit-with-earlier-releases-of-the-software.html ArchiCAD: http://helpcenter.graphisoft.com/technotes/setup/compatibility-with-legacy-versions/archicad-file-and-hardware-protection-compatibility/ DJP

No, I have never had a reason to examine other CAD programs than Chief Architect and Home Designer. Once you master a particular CAD program you have no need to look elsewhere, only those who are not willing to apply themselves to a single program in terms of study and practice that is full featured would want to do so in my opinion or like you, just getting started. I have been a successful user of Chief Architect since 1994. DJP

In my opinion Home Designer Pro is the only software title completely worth the money, Chief Premier is of course more able and flexible but for quite a bit more money. DJP

I usually have "Cross Hair" turned "on" because I use them to check the alignment of objects while in an elevation view and in other views. Being an end user "Preference" you can have or not have the cross hair at your choice like Eric indicated. DJP