DavidJPotter

Terrain and Roof systems are the hardest to learn for new users, so you are not alone in that. I suggest that you carefully read the Reference Manual Sections (found under "Help - Read Reference Manual") about "Terrain and related tools". Developing your own competence takes some time for study, practice which will end up in your own success. There are also Knowledge Base Help Articles that you can search by topic at the Home Designer Website . My advice is to learn on a gradient, by that I mean a little at a time and then, once learned, a little more. With Terrain you should add at least two different "Terrain Elevation Objects" (two different values will create a gradient slope between such values). You make a single change by adding additional elevation objects and when done for each one, evaluate the effect or effects each objects causes right after placing it to see if your effect is in the direction you want it to go. The most common mistake new users make is to make several changes or additions but when that is done it is more difficult to then tell which change was right and which are wrong. Develop your modulated terrain slowly and simply to keep it less confusing. Hilly terrain with embedded stairs such as you have is the most difficult to emulate. The learning curve is rather frustrating and stressful but worth the doing. DJP

Sure, just contact me via e mail so we can agree on a appointment time. I am available for on line Help Sessions on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays from 10 AM to 7 PM CDT weekly. DJP

Please view this short You Tube video presentation about door casings, interior and exterior: DJP

I do not believe you at least in terms of proof, I checked this out in Pro 2017. Architectural 2017, Suite 2017 etc and it is EXACTLY as SWarren and I have said it is. Perhaps we are not actually speaking of the same thing. If you were to post a copy of your plan and or a screen shot of what you are seeing then we could come to some form of actual understanding. Words can be deceptive whereas image or .plan evidence can be more clearly understood and evaluated by all concerned. DJP

As Eric has said, a specific answer to your question requires you telling us what software title and its version you are using. However, whatever you are using its wall tools act the same whether it is Home Designer or Chief Premier. I often add a custom slab to such corners set to the same material as the joining walls to have it appear to have a more squared appearance in camera and plan views. This has been the way it is since I started using this stuff back in 1995 and has not changed. I think I will render this as a feature request for future versions as you certainly have a valid point and complaint. I have also used three walls to form a more squared off corner (as you have seen only two walls creates an unwanted point), it is not particularly easy to do but can also work. The third wall squares off the corner. Here is a You Tube video of me demonstrating this: DJP

In any Home Designer version and title the best way to add a patio is to demark its boundaries using invisible "Room Definition Walls" to create its area. Once it has a Room Dialog Box in place by drawing at least three such walls you can then define its floor height, ceiling height (if required) and whether or not the space has a ceiling or not. If you want a roof or covered patio having walls to define its boundaries is still required but instead of invisible walls you could use railing walls set to emulate posts and beams to support an arbor type "ceiling" or roof. The above is quite generalized due to not knowing exactly what intend and what software you are using. DJP

A layout file is only useful for others to view IF the .plan file is also shared (the .layout file reads dynamically the plan file or files associated with it, so no plan file will = a blank .layout file always). That is why the .plan file is vitally important in terms of evaluating what is happening. You might consider sharing a copy of the .plan file using Dropbox, One Drive or Google Drive. This way the file size is not important and is easier than an e mail attachment or forum attachment which have size limitations DJP

The ceiling height settings when raised and when Auto Rebuild roofs is "on" you get a roof rebuild based upon the new ceiling height settings-Automatically. The correct procedure is to get your roofs looking correct. When you get what you want then turn off "Auto Rebuild Roofs" in the "Build Roof Dialog". Once that "feature" is turned off you can then raise or lower ceiling heights in individual room specification dialogs - Structure Tab - Ceiling Heights without it then auto-rebuilding the roof system. This is not a "bug" rather it is just learning what to do and when to do it to get a particular result using the software. It is programmed to work in a particular fashion, it is your job as a learner to find out how that is and then work with it as it is to gain your purposes. It is you who need to be knowledgable, the software just follows your orders so any outcome is your responsibility and not the software's. DJP

You could use the "Doorway Tool" and then turn off the casing to obtain a doorway that is not cased or you can use an interior door and the via its dialog turn off casing and threshold to obtain a wall opening that is not cased. This is not a "Bug" because this has been so programmed this way since I started using this software in 1995. What the dialog is telling you is that on an interior doorway or door there is no "Exterior Casing" rather just "Casing". DJP

You could use the "Doorway Tool" and then turn off the casing to obtain a doorway that is not cased or you can use an interior door and the via its dialog turn off casing and threshold to obtain a wall opening that is not cased. This is not a "Bug" because this has been so programmed this way since I started using this software in 1995. What the dialog is telling you is that on an interior doorway or door there is no "Exterior Casing" rather just "Casing". DJP

Close and reopen the software should bring them back. If not, I then need to know what software application and its version you are using please. DJP

Increase the roof overhang which will then cut of the unwanted walls you are getting (Roof planes are programmed to cut off walls UNDER those roof planes, so too little overhang = unwanted walls). This is not a "bug", it is just programming. DJP

I have thought about this some more. The main difficulty are the inabilities inherent in Architectural but this does not mean you cannot do what you need done (This is easier to do in HD Pro or Chief Premier, I have done what you want done many times in those applications). You may just have to compromise a little: You can turn off all non contributive visual layers and objects using "Display Options" dialog for plan view. Roof planes can be turned on in plan view but not given an opaque fill per roof plane as in Pro or Premier. Printing that to scale will require some trial and error using the "File - Print - Show Sheet" tool and the "File - Print - Sheet set up tool". Features that you are probably not familiar with. I would recommend that you search "Help" for "Print to scale" before you waste a lot of time guessing what to do in terms of dialogs and steps. DJP

Use the full overview camera and then under the "3D" menu select "Top View". You might first want to turn off (uncheck) any layers that you do not wish to print (You can leave the existing roof plane layers "on". Depending upon the target paper size you pick will determine how scaled the printed drawing is. DJP

There is a "Door Chime" button you can use in the Library Browser which looks like a garage door button, kinda-sorta. DJP

"Why" has been asked many times over the years at Chief Talk and elsewhere. The software Architects at Chief Inc have consistently said "it cannot be done" without explaining why (or maybe I have never fully understood their explanations). It would be a very positive plus if one could do this but they say it cannot be done without 3D to 2D steps and then redraw using current 3D tools (ugh!). I am just a long time user and not a programmer so I cannot give you the "Tech" reason this is so, I can merely say that it is not possible presently. The applications that are natively 2D like AutoCAD do not have this arbitrary but it does seem to be so for 3D CAD applications. Revit:https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/revit-products/troubleshooting/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/Backwards-compatibility-of-Revit-with-earlier-releases-of-the-software.html ArchiCAD: http://helpcenter.graphisoft.com/technotes/setup/compatibility-with-legacy-versions/archicad-file-and-hardware-protection-compatibility/ DJP

No, I have never had a reason to examine other CAD programs than Chief Architect and Home Designer. Once you master a particular CAD program you have no need to look elsewhere, only those who are not willing to apply themselves to a single program in terms of study and practice that is full featured would want to do so in my opinion or like you, just getting started. I have been a successful user of Chief Architect since 1994. DJP

In my opinion Home Designer Pro is the only software title completely worth the money, Chief Premier is of course more able and flexible but for quite a bit more money. DJP

I usually have "Cross Hair" turned "on" because I use them to check the alignment of objects while in an elevation view and in other views. Being an end user "Preference" you can have or not have the cross hair at your choice like Eric indicated. DJP

Exactly where you can control the backdrop varies from application to application; In Home Designer Pro the control dialog box can be found under the "3D" main menu section "3D Defaults" In Home Designer Suite the control dialog can be found under the "3D" menu section "Backdrop" In Home Designer Architectural the control dialog can be found under the "3D" menu section "Backdrop" What do you have? DJP

You have made a fundamental and common mistake by drawing your building in the software at an off plumb angle. The software is designed to operate best at right angles, the building orientation should be to the software's "North" up-screen - South - Down-screen". You then add a "North Pointer" object to graphically show "Magnetic North" ( See 2D Line tools menu for creating a "North Pointer"). You never cant or rotate the structure as it makes drawing off angle roof baselines and other objects unnecessarily difficult. DJP

Read and then practice with the data offered by these on line, free tutorial articles: https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/search/?q=walk+out+basement&default_tab=support DJP

When you create a render view it is still fully adjustable. You can also adjust sun , added and ambient light sources, even the color of emitted light which directly affects results. There are no "absolutes" except for machines other than, as I said your own opinion of what is right and wrong. DJP

Call Chief Architect Home Designer Sales during their Pacific office hours. DJP

You can adjust the photo before importation but not after importation in an image editing program like Photoshop. Or take the picture with its orientation in mind. DJP