DavidJPotter

You are welcome to submit a bug report to Tech Support, otherwise, after "Building the house" you can merely use the dimension tools to obtain the precise dimensions you desire. DJP

I use Text and set the size I want instead of the text displayed by the polyline. I too, do not know how one might increase the size of text displayed by a polyline, sorry. DJP

In order to override default behavior you can open the Window Specification Dialog defaults and change the "Minimum Spacing" value from the default of 2" to zero inches, once done it is easier to place doors and side lights side by side. Try that please. That setting is found in "Edit Default Settings - Windows - Minimum spacing". Commonly you place your French doors and then place a window by the door. Then using the windows dialog box you make it look like a fixed door or sidelight. DJP

I have done this a few times: you go or someone else goes to the intended site. Then take onsite photos from various viewpoints, noting those locations down. Then you take the photos taken and import them into Home Designer as custom backdrops for use in specific camera views for renderings. Each backdrop is good for a few degrees of rotation of the camera. DJP

No, sorry, not that I know of, other than making your own door in Sketch Up and using it instead of the default door. Plans a conceptual, you can always just add a note saying the dimensions of cabinet doors. We all would prefer perfection but perfect communication can be achieved using language along with visuals. DJP

The text is too small for me to read, my opinion is that with Architectural as the limiting factor, whatever you actually wish to do is beyond the capabilities of Architectural to do. DJP

Go to "Libarary" in the main toolbar and then from the dropdown menu select "import .calib or calibz" then navagate to your "Downloads" folder within Windows, select your library files and then click "OK". DJP

Temporarily remove the common HVAC walls, make your breaks and material assignments and then redraw the HVAC walls or you could use a thin soffit to carry the intended material and skip the wall breaks. DJP

I looked on the Home Designer website - Catalog downloads, you might try the "New England Classic" library, were there are wainscote panels you might be able to use to emulate pilasters. You can also try 3dwarehouse.com and do a search there for "pilasters". If you find something, you can then download it and then import that as a symbol into Architectural for use in your plan file. DJP

No, that is a question for Software Architects and Engineers, not me. DJP

DJP

You should be able to select the deck space and then from the "Edit Toolbar" select rebuild deck framing to bring it back into view. Also, the Deck Framing layer may also be turned off in the plan view Display Options dialog or perhaps in a camera view Display Options dialog (which you can check per instance). DJP PS: you really should add your signature to your posts, saying that you have Home Designer Pro 3019 and perhaps a little about your PC or Mac

DJP

Suite does not have the ability to adjust single walls as does Architectural and Home Designer Pro. The only way I know of is to make the walls, you want shorter into solid railing walls. I suppose you could make those solid railing walls from glass shower walls, set to solid railings and thus control their height by way of the Newells and Balusters tab (I have never tried this myself, I have Chief Premier, so I do not have to). I will try this with my copy of Suite 2019 and get back to you here. DJP

She said in her first post "Suite 2019" Eric. DJP

Since the shower is actually a separate "room" it will NOT show in a wall elevation camera (the wall elevation camera shown only the room in which it is created. What I do is use an elevation camera or a back-clip elevation/cross section camera that is preprogrammed to show everything, try that please. DJP

The software is preprogrammed to do what it does. It is predicated upon your initial floor - ceiling height settings you lodge in "Edit - Default Settings - Floors and Rooms - Current Floor - Ceiling Height". After that, the software is preprogrammed to maintain those settings per floor. Lowering the first-floor room via a room specification dialog should be easy and straight forward to do. It is when you wish to raise or lower an upper floor room where the preprogramming comes in. When you lower a second-floor room, it by default lowers the ceiling of the room or spaces below that upper floor room. raising a second-floor room is less problematic in that the floor platform that holds up the second-floor room merely becomes thicker to make up the added distance. Where you get into conflicts is where you try to lower a second or third story room downward, it always drives the preprogramming of the software nuts and should be avoided where possible. I do hope this makes some sense to you. You are dealing with a 3D construct which tries to maintain structural integrity as part of its programming. DJP

DJP Hope this helps

Any software is as "Powerful" to the degree that its user is well studied and competent. Each newer version is designed to work better in studied, competent hands. New versions contain new or improved tools and fixes that were discovered in earlier versions. On my computer, I have installed versions 7-21 of Chief Architect Premier and I can say that old version 7 still works as it was designed to work but Version 21 is A LOT better, more tools, smoother operation and time-saving features. Software will NEVER do anything for you, no matter the version. In the end software is a tool and is as effective as the end user understands how to use it to aid them with their creative intentions. DJP

The correct procedure is to set the ceiling height BEFORE you draw the first floor in "Edit - Default Settings -Floors and Rooms - Current Floor - Ceiling Height". The same is true for the second and third floors, you set their defaults before creating them as above. But when you do not, as probably you have done, then you set the first floor as above, then the second floor, then the third floor, over and over until you settings "stick" (are complied wtih) by the software. When its pre-programmed-expected procedures are flaunted, it seems to resist further change by acting as if it is an opponent (it is not stubborn or an opponent it just works smoother when used as intended by its makers). DJP

Each download has a version of it to download, some are ONLY for X10, and if downloaded will not install on an older version. It is a fact of computer technology. You may have simply downloaded the wrong catalog files that do not match your legacy version X6, it pays to make sure you select the correct version for your software. DJP

Take a look at "Tools, Display Options, Dimensions". Anything can be made to be visible or not in plan view or camera views by way of that dialog per instance. DJP

Without reservation, I recommend Home Designer Pro Only. This will require some dedicated study to learn, sufficiently its tools and settings to obtain results but is worth the effort. Once competence is achieved, it is an enjoyable, creative tool indeed! DJP

You can emulate 45d beams using soffits (cabinet tools) and using their dialog box slope them (they cannot be made round like logs). I am not sure but there is a custom library at the Chief Architect website that contains "log truss" symbols, you can check if you like: Sorry, I just checked and there is no such library for Pro. DJP

I do not often do this (I do not need to) but what worked for me is to have both plans open in the same Home Designer or Chief Architect application, then select-copy the target object in one plan (that copies the data of that object to the Windows Clipboard), then select the target plan file you want to place the intended object to. Then go to, in your Home Designer application to the "Edit" menu and select "Paste" to complete the transfer. The keyboard commands "CTRL - C" works to copy and then "CTRL-V" to paste. DJP