DavidJPotter

'for hexagons, octagons etc when setting their dimensions you set those in plan view in a clockwise or counterclockwise fashion, one to the next to get then equal to each other. You click on (select) the wall directly adjacent to the angled wall you wish to dimension, input the desired dimension and then move either clockwise or counterclockwise around the angled wall group until all dimensions are equal and as desired. DJP

Your common denominator is the vanity cabinet you are stubbornly trying to use. If you abandon using that object and just use a standard cabinet, altered to appear (look like) the one you want you can then move ahead. Some sinks or cabinets made by other sources than Chief Architect Inc are not pre-programmed to work as expected and as you have seen. Use what works and abandon that which does not. DJP

And turn off the "flat ceiling" in the room dialog by the stairs. DJP

DJP

Be sure you name the covered decks "Balcony" (otherwise you will get endless "Deck over a non-deck room error messages from the software ), Using the Balcony Room Specification Dialog you can then make them look like covered decks. I suppose the software Architects at Chief never considered having multi-floor decks. DJP

DJP

You are welcome to submit a bug report to Tech Support, otherwise, after "Building the house" you can merely use the dimension tools to obtain the precise dimensions you desire. DJP

I use Text and set the size I want instead of the text displayed by the polyline. I too, do not know how one might increase the size of text displayed by a polyline, sorry. DJP

In order to override default behavior you can open the Window Specification Dialog defaults and change the "Minimum Spacing" value from the default of 2" to zero inches, once done it is easier to place doors and side lights side by side. Try that please. That setting is found in "Edit Default Settings - Windows - Minimum spacing". Commonly you place your French doors and then place a window by the door. Then using the windows dialog box you make it look like a fixed door or sidelight. DJP

I have done this a few times: you go or someone else goes to the intended site. Then take onsite photos from various viewpoints, noting those locations down. Then you take the photos taken and import them into Home Designer as custom backdrops for use in specific camera views for renderings. Each backdrop is good for a few degrees of rotation of the camera. DJP

No, sorry, not that I know of, other than making your own door in Sketch Up and using it instead of the default door. Plans a conceptual, you can always just add a note saying the dimensions of cabinet doors. We all would prefer perfection but perfect communication can be achieved using language along with visuals. DJP

The text is too small for me to read, my opinion is that with Architectural as the limiting factor, whatever you actually wish to do is beyond the capabilities of Architectural to do. DJP

Go to "Libarary" in the main toolbar and then from the dropdown menu select "import .calib or calibz" then navagate to your "Downloads" folder within Windows, select your library files and then click "OK". DJP

Temporarily remove the common HVAC walls, make your breaks and material assignments and then redraw the HVAC walls or you could use a thin soffit to carry the intended material and skip the wall breaks. DJP

I looked on the Home Designer website - Catalog downloads, you might try the "New England Classic" library, were there are wainscote panels you might be able to use to emulate pilasters. You can also try 3dwarehouse.com and do a search there for "pilasters". If you find something, you can then download it and then import that as a symbol into Architectural for use in your plan file. DJP

No, that is a question for Software Architects and Engineers, not me. DJP

DJP

You should be able to select the deck space and then from the "Edit Toolbar" select rebuild deck framing to bring it back into view. Also, the Deck Framing layer may also be turned off in the plan view Display Options dialog or perhaps in a camera view Display Options dialog (which you can check per instance). DJP PS: you really should add your signature to your posts, saying that you have Home Designer Pro 3019 and perhaps a little about your PC or Mac

DJP

Suite does not have the ability to adjust single walls as does Architectural and Home Designer Pro. The only way I know of is to make the walls, you want shorter into solid railing walls. I suppose you could make those solid railing walls from glass shower walls, set to solid railings and thus control their height by way of the Newells and Balusters tab (I have never tried this myself, I have Chief Premier, so I do not have to). I will try this with my copy of Suite 2019 and get back to you here. DJP

She said in her first post "Suite 2019" Eric. DJP

Since the shower is actually a separate "room" it will NOT show in a wall elevation camera (the wall elevation camera shown only the room in which it is created. What I do is use an elevation camera or a back-clip elevation/cross section camera that is preprogrammed to show everything, try that please. DJP

The software is preprogrammed to do what it does. It is predicated upon your initial floor - ceiling height settings you lodge in "Edit - Default Settings - Floors and Rooms - Current Floor - Ceiling Height". After that, the software is preprogrammed to maintain those settings per floor. Lowering the first-floor room via a room specification dialog should be easy and straight forward to do. It is when you wish to raise or lower an upper floor room where the preprogramming comes in. When you lower a second-floor room, it by default lowers the ceiling of the room or spaces below that upper floor room. raising a second-floor room is less problematic in that the floor platform that holds up the second-floor room merely becomes thicker to make up the added distance. Where you get into conflicts is where you try to lower a second or third story room downward, it always drives the preprogramming of the software nuts and should be avoided where possible. I do hope this makes some sense to you. You are dealing with a 3D construct which tries to maintain structural integrity as part of its programming. DJP

DJP Hope this helps

Any software is as "Powerful" to the degree that its user is well studied and competent. Each newer version is designed to work better in studied, competent hands. New versions contain new or improved tools and fixes that were discovered in earlier versions. On my computer, I have installed versions 7-21 of Chief Architect Premier and I can say that old version 7 still works as it was designed to work but Version 21 is A LOT better, more tools, smoother operation and time-saving features. Software will NEVER do anything for you, no matter the version. In the end software is a tool and is as effective as the end user understands how to use it to aid them with their creative intentions. DJP