DavidJPotter

Members
  • Posts

    4302
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by DavidJPotter

  1. 1. Draw the walls using the appropriate wall types that matches you home 2.Verify the exterior dimensions around the footprint of your home. (Innaccurate dimensions equals a worthless outcome) 3. Measure the ceiling height of the majority of your home's rooms and enter that value into "Edit - Default Settings - Floors and Rooms - First Floor - Finished Ceiling Height" (this value locates the "Baseline Height" of your roof planes once built) 4. Calculate the pitch (angle) of your roof planes and then add that value into your "Build Roof Dialog right BEFORE actually ordering your roof system built. 5. You "Tell" or input into your software walls each wall that is to be designated a "Gable Wall" (If you do not understand what that term means "Google It" or study what roof terms mean in the "Build Roof Dialog - Roof Types tab" . 6. Once you have done these things correctly, then and only then, order your roof system be created folloing your correct orders. You get what you input into the software to guide it to a result, if you are not getting the desired result it is YOU who have erred. The software is a mechanical device that requires you competence gained by your study, your practice, failures and successes. It does basically nothing on its own. DJP
  2. Makes a BIG difference as to what software title and version you have (different titles and versions have differing abilities and tools available). What do you have? The photo you showed would require Home Designer Pro most likely but, anyway, what do you have? DJP
  3. Jo Ann got it but here it is again visually DJP
  4. You can print to 11x17 and then format your text annotations and scale annotations as if the end product is twice as large. You then go to your print shop and have then scan full sized 11x17 sheets, and then scan and resize those twice as large and then print the final at 24x36 paper (that is why you call out the original scales of 1/8=1' to 1/4"=1' because that is what you have in the final printed product. You can create an orthographic overview and then select "Top View" under camera orientations and then send to your 11x17 layout at 1/8 scale and then annotate the scale as 1/4"=1' scale for resizing by 200% on 24x36 paper, Or upgrade to Chief Premier where paper size is not any kind of problem. DJP
  5. DavidJPotter

    Trusses

    Since Trusses, by Law must be designed by a State Licensed Structural Engineer in all 50 States, why bother? Software trusses are not legal (In Texas, I know for sure that the Architectural Board can fine you up to $5,000.00 for portraying them as "legal"). To answer your question, in Home Designer Pro they cannot be customized and are just preprogrammed to fill the space between the ceiling and the underside of roof planes. In Chief Premier they can be customised but at best are purely "Conceptual" or "Cosmetic". DJP
  6. Read and apply this Help Article please: https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00120/creating-a-parapet-roof.html DJP
  7. I did the images in Chief Premier version 7 ( a long time ago), it depends on how detailed you intend to model such a structure as to whether or not you get Suite, Architectural or Home Designer Pro, any of those can, once learned, easily model such sturctures. DJP
  8. Home Designer titles have no "Ray Tracing" ability (Chief Premier only), the 2020 titles have PBR Physically-Based-Rendering Lots of Chief Premier users enhance their renders with PhotoShop and other such image editing software DJP
  9. "File - Export - .dxf" ".DXF" is a universal 2D file format that is importable into AutoCAD, IntelliCAD and other major CAD programs, that command converts your .plan file from 3D to 2D for sharing between CAD programs. DJP
  10. A "Deck" room by default and pre-programming has NO Ceiling and thus no auto-attic walls to cap that missing ceiling. Open the Room Specification Dialog for your current "Deck" and on its "Structure" Tab check "Has a ceiling" and that command alone will then auto add a flat ceiling and auto -attic sidewalls, try it and see! DJP
  11. Upgrading to Home Designer Pro would lead, once you learn how to use its roof tools, to a solution. Competence with one's tools is more important than the tools but in the case of a cape cod type house, you will be better served by Pro than otherwise. Just keep in mind that software is not a substitute for your own competence, software, once learned tends to then make things easier to do. DJP
  12. "Bonus Rooms" are commonly thought to be in existing "Attic Space" (the space that exists between the ceiling of the first floor and the bottoms of the roof planes above. In Home Designer or Chief Premier, you first establish your existing roof system which secondarily establishes available attic space for a potential "Bonus Room". you then turn off "Auto Build Roofs" in the "Build Roof" Dialog box and order a "Second Floor" be built by ordering a "BlankSecond Floor" be created. In the dialog box presented for the "new floor" you set a target "Ceiling Height" for the new "Bonus Room" and then manually draw in the interior walls of the intended room. You can check the usability or liveability of the potential room with camera views and cross-sections to establish how wide and long the room shall be Probably the most important consideration is how you will enter the new bonus room from the first floor, how much of the first floor is to be used to house the stairwell (that is probably the first thing to do before seeing how much usable space is in the attic to be converted to a room. DJP
  13. The "error 200" is probably due to your attaching the ".plan" file while it is actively open in Home Designer, which you have seen, does not work. You must close Home Designer and then use Window File Explorer to attach/share your file here, preferably as a ".zip" archive file. Since I cannot see your file I cannot even suggest an existing tutorial other than your "Reference Manual" and the Home Designer Website Tutorials Area. DJP
  14. There is no "mystery" involved but I agree oftentimes one has to figure out how a particular feature was pre-programmed to work. How to make a material run in a particular direction is rather straight-forward: it is preprogrammed to run (be horizontal too) in a particular direction, so if you wish a particular material to run in a different direction you use the "Edit Material Definition" tool (the tool icon that has three 45 degrees angle colors) and left-click on the material you wish to edit. In the resulting dialog, you will find that each material is represented differently depending upon what camera tool you wish to view it in the "Pattern" is for "Vector View, Glass House and Line drawing" type cameras and the "Texture" of a material is used to represent the material visually in "Standard Render and PBR" render cameras. So in order to change the pre-programmed way a material "runs" along a material surface you must change both the angle of the pattern and texture to the direction you wish it to follow. In the case where you want a material to run both horizontally and perpendicularly the "Copy" of the material must be made manually by you (I usually name the "copy" "Material Name-90D.jpg etc for the same of the computer). Videos DJP
  15. DavidJPotter

    Twila

    You, as LawB10 said use "File - Import PDF" and then import your target PDF file, then once in your plan vew of the plan file, you then scale it using the provided scaling tool and dimension tools to verify its proper scaling and then you can trace over it to quickly layout walls, doors and windows indicated in the PDF file using your 3D tools for walls, windows and doors. You use dimension tools on the walls to obtain accuracy. DJP
  16. Whatever software you have, under its "Help" Menu you will find a command called "Read Reference Manual", click on that and then read, carefully the section in it that covers "Materials List" and then you will be all set. DJP
  17. If you will share a copy of your plan, I will take a look and report back, your call. DJP
  18. Put the roof planes temporarily on the <A> Attic Level in "Plan View". Then "copy-paste- paste-hold position" your dormers into the roof planes now in the "Attic", once done, then delete the dormers in floor 2 plan view and see if that helps your situation. Dormer objects are pre-programmed to want to avoid existing walls in plan view and I have found that placing them on the Attic level sometimes allows them to coexist with lower level walls. DJP
  19. Custom symbols cannot be made in Home Designer software titles. One can download and learn how to use Sketch Up (a free application for creating custom 3D symbols that can be imported into current Home Designer titles but NOT 2016 titles). In order to make that particular symbol you need and want you will have to find a Chief Architect user who still has an active copy of Chief Architect Premier that matches Home Designer 2016 - Chief Premier Version X7 (or version 17). A symbol made by any earlier version will not be compatible with HD 2016, the versions must match for compatibility. The same is true for Sketch-Up, in that current Sketch Up symbols are NOT compatible with older versions of Chief or Home Designer software. Current Chief and HD titles are only compatible with current versions of Sketch-Up. Not happy news but true none the less. There are a few Advanced Chief Users who specialize in making custom 3D symbols that can be found at Chief Talk and elsewhere who could then help you. DJP
  20. The key is to turn OFF "Auto Build Roof" command in the "Build Roof" Dialog when you have achieved the roof design you wish. That done, changing the ceiling heights in individual rooms will then have no effect or change your existing roof system. DJP