DavidJPotter

Depends upon what software you have, knowing that will then indicate what can and cannot be done. DJP

You modulate terrain, then when you have multiple buildings with varying floor heights, such must be manually changed, one structure to the other a dialog box at a time. You should want to not rotate actual structures off right angles if at all possible (off right angles just makes editing harder to do but if you must, you must). I would expect that such work is most easily accomplished in Home Designer Pro and any other title would be extremely difficult if not impossible to do (too many variables for comfort). DJP

You can control how the software frames in "Edit - Default Settings - Framing", that is easy and straight forward. The gable part is also straight forward, though a picture or sketch would aid precise understanding and thus precise advice. Please post a sketch or photograph and then, fully understood, useful advice could then follow. DJP

In order for anyone to offer help, they would have to know the ceiling height of each floor and the platform thickness of the second floor. Also the angle (pitch) of your roofs. Having that data, another could then help, without that pertinent data, nothing can be done other than by you. DJP

Pamela, I opened your file in my copy of Chief Architect Premier X5 and programmed it to be editable in other Home Designer titles. You will be limited to 2014 titles only, yes it can be opened in 2015 and 2016 but usually this things are version specific (if the file is opened and saved in anything newer than 2014 titles you will not be able to afterward continue to edit the file in any 2014 title. DJP 0901Pamela (2).zip

To precisely 3D model the window in your posted photograph will require Chief Architect Premier, I do not believe you an duplicate that look using Home Designer Pro, provided you are not a perfectionist, you might be satisfied with Pro but I am certain that Chief Premier can and will get the job done. It is unreasonable to expect a cheap application like Home Designer Pro to do high level 3D modeling. DJP

In order to do this structure in Suite 2014 you must have precise dimensions for the ceiling of the outer porch and also the ceiling height of the church proper as well as all other areas that are to have roofs build over those walls. Settings must be precisely set to get a result. You have to guide the software to a result and that requires precise measurements applied and set in the software model. Guessing at such things is a waste of anyone's time. DJP

I opened my copy of Architectural 2014 and the only way I could control the posts was to paint each one with "Opening No Material" because they cannot be otherwise selected or edited. Painting them with "Opening No Material" makes them disappear one at a time, just be sure you use the "Component Mode" of the "Material Painter tool" and do not use the paint roller tool to do so. That way you can at least control the number of posts that is showing in camera views. DJP

I can help you once I get your file. DJP

All visible objects and symbols are on named layers that can be turned on or off depending upon what you wish to communicate. I commonly use several plan views per project (one for structural, a roof plan and an electric plan, same plan file but printed each time with different layers on and off corresponding to what each plan view is to communicate. Electric plans need to communicate to the electrical contractor special desires that you may have (switch locations and types, specialized use appliances, dedicated circuits, telephone and CTV locations,) A licensed electrician is required by law to layout plugs to existing codes and to organize his circuits accordingly so what he needs to know from you is specialized, individualistic desires only, not minutiae. DJP

You can manually adjust just about anything you care to but most outcomes are due to "settings" in "Specification Dialogs" that are either wrong, misunderstood or guessed at. Carefully study your Reference Manual (Help - View Reference Manual) then practice using what you have studied inspecting it using various camera tools and you will arrive. DJP

If you created the terrain plane by importing a complicated (highly detailed) topo map, it may be that your PC's hardware is not advanced to display it. I have seen this happen before and it is not the size that is the problem, it is the total number of 3D faces that an object has which determines how it is handled. You do not need a surveyor grade document to faithfully portray terrain, in fact as you have now seen it is a complete failure in terms of usefulness. The way I do terrains, especially large terrains is to bring in the topo map or data so I can see it and selectively place elevation objects so as to get the proper effect with the minimum number of elevation objects. This way I get a terrain plane that my PC can handle. You should share your current file with Home Designer Tech Support for more scientific advice but I think I am on solid ground with mine. DJP

I finally had the time to actually look and see what can and cannot be done in Suite and Interiors 2015, here is the result: https://youtu.be/wuoWWlP2wZs DJP

Open the Room Specification Dialog and take a look at the settings for "Ceiling Structure - Ceiling Finish". Whatever you want to do will reside in those settings and changing them to suit your purposes. DJP

From the long list of "error messages" I can easily assume that someone sent you a plan file created on another PC. The creator of that plan file used materials (texture files) in libraries that you do not have on your PC. Each of those "Error Messages" indicate that such materials were use in the plan file but do not reside in the LIbrary Browser of YOUR pc and software. You must download those free additional Library Catalog libraries or have the person send you the plan file along with its associated material files (texture image files), they would have to export the entire plan (File - Back Up Entire Plan command) which would then export the plan file and its associated materials. It is explained in detail in your Reference Manual under "Back Up Entire Plan". DJP

The fact is that any software is merely a mechanical device operated by end users. Part of learning and mastering any software is understanding what its limits are, what it can be trusted to do on its own and where one has to step in and control conditions. In terms of Sun Angle control and lighting, there is no difference in the controls of Home Designer Pro ($495.00) and Chief Architect Premier ($2,600.00) other than more choices and tool options. The big difference is in the quality and diligence of the end user to get a product using the tools he has. You have every right to be critical I suppose but such criticism will not and does not change what is. DJP

The software creates to a scale of 1' = 1' in plan views so when you use a print layout or print to paper or PDF you must downscale so it will fit on the target paper size. I do not fully understand what it is that you do not understand about that. The process does not change values only how large the view is when printed so it fits on paper (the dimension values do not change, only the scale changes). DJP

Under the 3D menu -"lighting" there is a manual command to "Toggle Sunlight" which controls whether there is or is not sunlight, did you toggle sunlight "off"? yes or no? I often use the sunlight arrow to modify shadow patterns during the day but it is not useful at night where you would toggle off sunlight, did you do that or did you do something else? DJP

Mick is right in that I make my contact information public so people will feel free to contact me. DJP

It appears from your posted image that you have "Casings" turned off (those would commonly fill the voids that are showing in your image around doors and windows). It may also be that those windows and doors might also be marked "recessed" on their "Options" tabs. Both of those conditions (no casing and recessed) can and will cause such appearances, check that out and see if it makes a difference. DJP

Please view this You Tube tutorial video I made about "Dimensions" and "Moving Object by dimension" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5smDg7bbtBs DJP

You do NOT need an Architect. Architects develop ideas for plans where a person just has some general idea of a project, an Architect can develop the idea and then turn it over to a draft-person. You have already done the "Architect" part yourself, I see little reason to pay big money for work you have already done. What you need is a drafts-person who can take your already created plan file and develop it into printed-scaled drawings for sharing with your Engineer (for the Engineering) and other Building Professionals who will assist you in building your plans. In Home Designer Pro you create a layout file for each laid-out printed page. You have one plan file and from that plan file you create multiple layout page files, one for each printed-scaled page. Mick or me can help you with that at prices well below what most Architect's charge. DJP

This is not hard to do, you locate and alter the shape of the upper cabinet and then place a microwave oven underneath the upper cabinet (I am assuming you intend to have a microwave oven-vent hood combination). It requires using an elevation camera along with your plan view. This procedure works no matter what home Designer software you are using Here is a You Tube video of me doing that: https://youtu.be/pKwUUUuZEeU DJP

Home Designer Pro and Architectural can dimension in elevation views, none of the other titles any dimension tools in elevations other than the measuring tape (temporary dims only). DJP

No decent contractor will work for free. If there is no profit in something, no apparent gain, why should anyone but you be interested? The conservative way to go would be to get three or more estimates from builders who have good references and track records. You can certainly be your own General Contractor, taking that responsibility for yourself. But your subcontractors intend to survive (make a living) as well, so there is a point past which something can and can't be done, no matter one's budget. You either get a larger budget or have smaller dreams that you can afford. As a designer the easiest thing I can do is to design something beyond my client's budget. I learned this lesson early on that you serve the people you are working for and not one's grandiose ideas of an ideal Architecture. DJP