solver

Have you considered how you will condition the space? 

Folding sinks are available as are toilet tank sinks. There are also plenty of small sinks that could fit in a corner, for example. Might need to look at RV suppliers for some things as they have generally scaled down versions.

Was going to suggest lowered ceiling with open joist. I think your primary focus should be air sealing between floors (exterior walls and roof too), and unsure about insulation being needed there. 

Winders don't work well on a narrow stair, unless the landing area is expanded. My stairs show a 9" tread, 8" rise and are 2' wide. Winders as shown in my 2nd image above are best.

Consider moving the landing and/or upper flight of stairs outside the 16x16 space. 

Thinking about the design process. I often design from the inside out, especially when there are few constraints on the exterior -- need to conform to setbacks, height restrictions etc. While trying to design within the 16' square is a good exercise, a goal of staying within the 256 sq ft might result in a better layout.

1 more.

All the information is in the help system. Suggest you start there. Search for "stairs".

There is also the Knowledge Base where you will find information on many topics.

Moving stairs and kitchen. Allows access to most of under stair space. Water heater under landing, drawers etc under lower flight.

Did everyone see post #44?

This isn't a real house. 

Park Model homes have some good, compact floor plans. You might get some ideas looking at the ones with lofts. They all have small stairs leading up, but the loft is not high enough to stand in -- unless you are 3' tall.

You would need to allow for headroom over the stairs, but reversing the runs so the longer one is on the bottom, opens up some additional possibilities.

I'm also showing exterior doors as out swinging. Only real problem is if you want screened doors. I would to keep all the bugs out  .

Clearance under stairs. Stairs can be built to save space, especially smaller ones like this. no need for large stringers hanging down below.

Plan with kitchen and bath reversed. Trying to use all the space under the stairs. Room for water heater left of refrigerator. Stairs are 2' wide and fairly steep with an 8" rise. In my local, stairs leading to space less than 200 sq ft don't need to meet code.

To manage your attachments (images), click your user name at the top of the page, click My Settings, click Manage Attachments on the left.

Is there a reason your images are not showing the bedroom floor?

Don't forget Glass House view if available. This one shows a small office and half bath.

Winders.

Consider 2x6 floor joist. You don't need to span the entire space.

If you would not mind, it would be interesting to know where this will be built. Just a general idea.

I've been following the tiny/small house movement for some time, and while I believe the tiny, built on a trailer places are far too small, small is still good.

You are understanding the problem with stairs in a small house, also the issue of the upper floor being warmer than the lower. The two reasons I've moved away from a multi-floor living space in my designs.

Have you considered alternating tread stairs? They help solve the space issue, and after a short adjustment period, are said to feel much like a regular stair. One of these days, I'm going to build a short set and try them myself.

Here is my Stair Dialog. Control over width, rise, run etc. I can also drag the stair to make it narrower, wider etc in plan view.

You could add winders at the lower landing.

I would add the porches to your plan too. You will need to be able to do sections of the structure to check for clearances.

As for insulation, have you considered a REMOTE or PERSIST house. Both methods place all the wall insulation outside the structure using ridged foam. You could do (from in to out) exposed framing, T&G sheathing,  insulation, then your exterior siding. Giving a rustic, cabin look, but still very well insulated.

The bath under the stairs could have a reduced ceiling height. The top landing could be a step or two down from the bedroom floor. You don't need full depth joist there either. 2x4 will work for the short span and give you a bit more room.

OK -- now I understand.

Are you sure that's what you wanted, because is doesn't look right -- no offense intended.

Could you post an image showing the roof where it's shape is clearer?

Start a new thread if you like -- I have some more to post and will wait for the new thread.

I added a dormer to your plan yesterday and was going to post, but as you said, where do you draw the line on making things bigger?

Start here.

There are also videos on YouTube, and the Knowledge Base, and the help within the program.

Have you seen the Homesteaders Cabin?

Keith -- Everyone has access to ChiefTalk. Read all you want, or login with your HomeTalk credentials and post. 

Creating knee walls is what I was suggesting. When you build the 2nd floor, set the ceiling height to 24", or whatever you choose. Then uncheck Ceiling Over This Room in the 2nd floor.

All my images above show this.

Also, in a Doll House view of the second floor, you should see the stairs leading down. Your plan does not.

Keep us updated on your progress, and come back with any questions.

Here is an idea putting a full bath up, toilet down. 1st floor bath needs a small sink.

I'm interested in small/tiny houses, and you have done a good job of squeezing everything into this one.

I noticed your second floor has no room definitions, and the floor seems to be missing.. I deleted it and rebuilt it, drawing in the walls and got room definitions. 

The stairwell seems to be defined in an unusual way too.

If I were building, I would make the exterior walls taller. You will gain much needed headroom upstairs at little additional cost.

You don't need a landing at the top of the stairs -- just the room floor.

How about a door at the landing instead of the foot of the stairs. You could gain a couple of steps on the lower flight, moving the top back towards the center of the bedroom.

As for measuring things, do you have the tape measure tool? You may use it in a cross section.

Could you be specific about which image you are talking about?

Is it the one in post #25?

What specifically is incorrect with my plan?

Just trying to understand exactly what you are trying to model.

I'm using Pro to create something for others to produce in Architectural.

Could you place a soffit the same height as the crown above the cabinets? 

It would give the crown a place to run.

Is this what you want?

I'll suggest again, if you have a project to model, start working on it -- that's the way you will learn.

Sample plans will show what was done, not how it was done.

Maybe find a plan, or picture you like and attempt to reproduce it.