solver

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Posts posted by solver

  1. For the ledge, you should be able to move the wall over in line with the one below. When you are on a floor above another, the edit tool bar has a tool for aligning a wall with the one directly below.

     

    When I did the steps using your plan, I did the lower flight, and it snapped to the left wall, then the upper flight, and it snapped to the right wall, then the landing, which filled the space. Adding the landing last seems to be the easiest way, at least for me.

     

    No breaking needed.

     

    -- Eric

  2. Just tried it and it works for me. I'm new to doing stairs and still learning.

     

    Open a new plan. Using the straight stairs tool, drag out your 8 steps. Using the cross-hairs to align the next flight, drag out the next 8 steps. Position the cursor close to the steps where the landing should be and click.

     

    Landing should create. View in 3D to verify.

  3. Thanks guys. 

     

    DJP -- I was really thinking simpler, instead of better. I worked for various state agencies in Austin, and Capital Metro, back in the 80s and preached to my teams then to find the simplest solution. I still feel that way. I want to easily understand what I did when picking this project up in a few months, or when looking for a reference when doing something similar.

     

    Mick -- I need to start thinking about the big picture. What's this assembly similar to -- like your Clerestory Windows/Roof, where I had been looking at wall info.

  4. Notice in the first image the missing wall between the two roof planes.

     

    There are no internal walls, or, no walls that extend to the ground (see image 2).

     

    I've built this structure two ways, first with a short, Open Below second floor, and second by increasing the ceiling height on the middle section.

     

    The second floor version worked, and I was able to shorten the automatically generated walls so they only filled the gap between the two roofs, but this did not seem very clean.

     

    Just raising the ceiling made the most sense, but but the walls are a problem -- either invisible or not. I solved this by changing them to a pony wall where the lower part is invisible and the top is a normal exterior wall sized to fill the gap. There are also a few issues on an interior view. Missing wall finish where the invisible wall butts the exterior wall for example.

     

    So my question, is there a better way.

     

    -- Eric

  5. Once you have a room defined, click anywhere in the room not on another object, and the entire room will be selected.

     

    You may then Ctrl-E, or right click and choose Open Object.

     

    You could also just double click in the room to open the Room Specification dialog.

     

    Look under Structure on the left.

     

    -- Eric

  6. Have a shower surrounded by 3 standard walls and one glass shower wall.

     

    I want one wall (see first image) to extend out past the glass an inch or so.

     

    When I move it via drag or entering dimensions, it always snaps back to the location shown. If I drag it out 6" or so it will stay, then use the arrow keys to move it, once it gets to within 4 or 5 inches, it snaps back even with the glass.

     

    Have tried all I know.

  7. Would like a printer capable of 11x17 black and white.

     

    Will see little use -- 50 pages or so a month.

     

    See multifunction devices, but really need just a printer. Already have printer/copier/scanner laser for 8.5" paper.

     

    I have researched, but many reviews focus on photo printing etc, and not drawing nice sharp lines.

     

    Any ideas?

     

    -- Eric

  8. you will need to play with the maximum Chord Spans until you get the desired result on the webs

     

    Thanks to all who replied. As a new user, I have much to learn.

     

    This was a project for a friend building this barn for his daughter who is here for the weekend from out of state. He wanted her to see his design n 3D.

     

    Mick -- The above quote from your post was the key. I now have what I need.

     

    One suggestion I'll be making to CA is to add an "Apply" button to the dialogs. Would make this trial and error cycle much easier!

     

    -- Eric

  9. Thanks guys.

     

    David -- Have tried the soffit tool using the sloped option, even found a KB article (http://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00902/) that says "Angled timber members can also be created in the Home Designer Architectural and Home Designer Pro versions by using a sloped soffit.", but doesn't do much to explain how.

     

    Mick -- The truss on the front is a stock truss with the king post option checked. It happens to match the design I'm trying to replicate. Your suggestion is what I tried first, but because of the width of the building, the truss generated has too many members.

     

    I'll keep trying.

     

    -- Eric

  10. Trying to draw a decorative truss on the side gables like the one on the front. Will be embedded in the stucco.

     

    Used the soffit tool to make the horizontal and vertical parts, but unable to do the angled members.

     

    Is there a better way?

     

    Using latest Home Designer Pro.