solver

Can you create a new molding profile in Pro? Searching Help and the Knowledge Base does not provide an answer that I could find.

Can you modify a profile from the Library?

Can you turn an object -- specifically a custom counter top with applied molding, upside down (to get the molding in the correct orientation)?

Here is an idea for the copper roof -- yes, it's upside down, but that can be fixed.

This is a custom counter top with a molding applied, covered with a standing seam roof and painted copper.

Consider using the same idea for the sill, if applying a molding profile to a standard sill does not work. The one in your picture looks curved -- is yours?

I'd also suggest watching the Home Designer videos on YouTube before working on the tutorial. Many are specific to Home Designer, but the Chief Premier ones are worth watching as well eventually, as Pro is a subset of Premier.

Also check out the Knowledge Base (before asking here please  ) when you need help. 

And, you can add and remove dimension locations from a dimension line.

If you don't want it split into 2 parts -- remove one.

And, if you create your interior dimension in the upper part of that space, you should get a single number, not the split dimension that results when you draw the dimension line closer to the lower part of that space. The software is being "smart".

Just clicking on that wall will give you temporary dimensions which can be used to move the wall too.

By "vertical wall" I'm guessing you are referring to the wall to the right of the 6' 5" dimension.

I can select that wall and drag it, or move it with the dimension.

Why can't you move it with the dimension? -- what happens?

Posting the plan file (xxx.plan) will likely help someone provide a better answer.

Settings should be the default.

Then Final View with Shadows.

My builder buddy reports a 35% difference between cost to build and selling price on one specific house. House was a simple build -- open, level lot, a rectangle except for a small bumpout for the eating area and 2 car garage that protrudes from the front.

Selling price was $385,000 for just over 2500 sq ft.

Not sure any of this is relevant at this was in Colorado. 

What matters is not what you estimate, but what the builder charges. 

What are other homes selling for in the area?

Do you really need 2600 sq ft in a retirement home? 

A builder friend is just finishing a spec build of about the same size and price. I'll run your numbers by him and report back.

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Practice -- been building instead of drawing.

I wanted to play with the trim sizes like you, but not in Pro

I pushed the left side of the house back a bit to increase the size of the front porch.

My first thought when looking at the plan would be to swap the kitchen/nook and family room. Family room gains windows on 2 sides.

Bedrooms will need egress windows, so I enlarged the one facing the front. Added a 3rd window left of the front door just for looks.

Lowered the roof pitch to 4/12.

lot C.plan

Placing windows with the default separation of 2" results in the 2 on the left. You can override this by doing a copy and paste of a window and pasting close to the copied window. Results on the right.

I've changed the default separation to 3-1/2" as that's how I trim them out if they are separate and not mulled.

You might also post the xxx.plan file so we can play with it. Make sure it's not open in Pro.

Google "craftsman homes" -- lots of info.

Could you describe what you are looking for?

You might try the 3D Warehouse.

Good luck 

Post an accurate plan as Mick suggested, along with some side views of that front gable.

It's important to have a good understanding of exactly what you are trying to model. You will need to coerce the program into building the roof and details will matter.

Pictures show up fine now.

"I can't seem to make the pitch 6/12 on the reverse gable"

What are you calling a "reverse gable"?

Building with a 2x4 wall gives you an additional 10 sq ft over a 2x6 wall in a 16x16 house. Make it a rectangle and the difference is greater because of the additional wall needed.

From Building Green - How Much Insulation Is Enough?

For example, if you install R-19 fiberglass batts in 2x6 frame walls, with the studs 16 inches on-center, double top-plates, and other elements of "standard" framing, the actual R-value of the whole wall with the R-19 insulation will be about R-15. The whole-wall R-value is lower because of "thermal bridging" through the wood framing.

How will you use the house? If this is an occasional weekend getaway, then maybe standard insulation practices are good enough. Insulation is expensive and it would be easy to over insulate where the additional cost of insulation would never pay for itself.

Air sealing is as important as insulation, and a well detailed, well sealed house will perform like it is better insulated.

In your climate (Climate Zone 3) I would build the wall like this. Typically referred to as a rain screen wall. 

The exterior foam eliminates thermal bridging and adds insulation. The furring strips space the siding away from the structure and create a vented channel for moisture to escape. 

From the inside out. 

1. Drywall
2. 2x4 studs with cavity insulation
3. Sheathing
4. Rigid Foam
5. House Wrap
6. Vertical Furring Strips
7. Siding

See Building Science Corp and Green Building Advisor for lots more info.

I mentioned REMOTE and PERSIST earlier. Both are used mostly in Alaska and Canada, although they perform well in warmer climates too. Expensive because they both depend on thick exterior rigid foam for insulation. 

How is the porch supposed to connect to the main roof?

Are you modeling this house?

Arizona has a diverse climate, from Sahara like deserts, to thick green forest. Where I live, AC is optional, but heat is mandatory.

Winter in my Arizona -- that's about 20" on the ground. This area burned in 2000, or you would be looking at a pine forest.

Lets look at your gambrel roof.

Push the roof sides out so they are vertical, add top plates, extend the rafters. You now have a conventional second floor space with a small increase in cost for the additional framing.

Unless you like the look of the gambrel roof, I still don't see it as a way to save money, or to get a better structure.

I just like the look of exposed framing. I'd build a timber framed house, if they were not so expensive. When I do build, I want to incorporate some exposed framing, just for the look. 

Screen capture from an episode of Home Again by Bob Vila, showing the idea.

Will continue with insulation later.

Explain a bit about what you are trying to do.

With Pro, I have Edit>Edit Area>Edit Area (All floors). Do you?

Post a picture of what you are trying to model. One large enough for us to see.

The 3rd and 4th image will not load. I can see the thumbnail but not the larger image, and need to see it to help.